where to go from here. jetting q.

dank

dank

New member
ok i got my slide cut to a no.7, and got a cck needle, 3rd clip. i love the bike when its on the needle! well, sortof, i may need to move the clip up one or down one, im going to wait to tinker with that. however, the main and pilot still seem wrong. going up its like i hit a flat spot around 1/2-2/3 throttle, where the rpms seem to hit a wall and stop going up. im pretty sure its fat if the plug is anything to judge by, its at a 178 right now, so i think im going to go to a 175 and see if that helps, but the pilot is blubbery too. right now its at a 40, and ron said maybe try fatter, but, i spoke to the first owner of the bike, and he said they always ran a 38. so do i go up or down? i dont know if cutting the slide will change how the pilot affects it, and im inclined to go with the 38. just lookin for your guys opinions. oh! and while im thinkin about it, and i know this is the wrong place, but will the clutch pack from an 05 de300 fit in my 03 ec250? my basket is dead shot and the clutch grabs like nothing else, and a fellas got that pack for sale at just the right price, so im wondering for sure if it will fit.
thanks for any input!
 
Check ur spark plug for a start see what colour it is If its black and sooty it is well rich, if it is White it is too lean. should be tan colour.

Are you sure that your power valve is opening?

The clutch should fit some one else may jump in and confirm this.
 
i dont know if taking a plug reading is going to help, especially with the pilot and the main, the air screw position should determine the pilot if i remember right, and i cant get any time on the main jet because it doesnt want to run in that rpm range. it wont go up much past 3/4 throttle max then it kindof hits a ceiling, and i know it has more than that. im starting to think you may be onto something with that powervalve though.....
 
I have an 07 ec300 and run the cck needle and find it to work very well on the bottom but not as well in the middle or on top when compared to the stock N1EH. The cck needle seems leaner on the bottom making for a more crisp and powerful power delivery but on top it is richer and kills the over rev on my bike. The cck needle completely takes away any transition from bottom to mid range so it makes the bike very easy to ride especially in wet and technical conditions. The stock needle is a lot more fun than the cck when I ride above 1/4 throttle in dry conditions.
 
I suppose what you need to think about is and ask.

What did it run like before you cut the slide?:confused:
 
no.6 slide, 40 pilot, CEL needle (which i didnt know until i had it cut, as i also had him replace the stuck and stripped out keeper, bought that way) and a 178 main. air screw about 2- 2.5 turns out (i adjust it most times i ride). it ran insane rich. like spooge pooring out the pipe, couldnt do anything past half throttle, and itd foul plugs every few rides.
 
the more i think about it, the more im inclined to believe that the powervalve is at least part of the problem, though i wouldnt think it has much to do with all of the spooge and black plugs. cuz even at low rpm a properly jetted bike should run clean.
 
just change 1 thing 1 size /position at a time and ride it each time. note if it's better or worse where that change has effect. it is very hard to jet over the internet.... just work on 1 thing at a time. pilot first, then get air screw right, then get needle. the main is usually very easy. either it runs great wot or it don't.


you can't go off of what previous owner had jetting wise unless you trust he was right....

ballpark it around 175/42/3rd position and 1.5 out and go from there.

you said it ran 'insane rich' at 178. that tells you something right?
 
Yes, one thing at a time. You should not be too rich with a 175, in fact that was borderline lean in all of my 3 250s. I run a 180 and my bike is an animal on top, not rich. I also agree with gasser, the CCK is a bit lean and flat for a 250 especially with a 7 slide, better in a 300. These bikes go flat on the torque if lean, better to err on the rich side if any. Check your PV, reeds, float height, primary crank seal, ignition. I assume Ron cut the slide so its correct? Did he replace the nozzle? Get a DDK, DEK to experiment with.

Oh, yes the clutch should work fine.
 
yes the slide was an rb designs, in fact ron suggested and sold to me the cck. the previous owner is dylan debel, and this was one of his old race bikes before husaberg took him up, so i think his settings would be good, however, i dont know what the cut slide would do...... im going to pick up a 38 and a 42 pilot, and a 180 and a 175 main. and then start tinkering. im also going to take off the powervalve cover and see if things are moving properly in there. thanks for the replys and if you have any more id be more than happy to listen. this is my first bike, and the first bike in about 2 generations of my family, so nobody around here has any clue what to do with mine, so im learning it online as much as i can and going from there. been doin lots of tt searching and old post searching on here. so thanks for helpin a noob out.
 
my bike used to run exactly as you describe when I bought it new. LTR jet kit solved it. The needle is similar if not same as CCK. 180 main, but the big change was the pilot, went to a 48. Seems backwards but I quit fouling plugs. I set my kids bike up the same as mine when I bought it for him. Yeah, we get a little "drippage" out the exhaust if we aren't riding hard. If we ride hard and keep the bikes hot there is no spooge at all.
 
Over the years there were three different LTR needles, the later one being richer in taper. In fact Les came out with the third needle after my '03 250 would not run up to par on the older needle which was leaner like the C series. The bike was smooth but would go flat in the lower midrange, and not pull as well out of turns or lug up hills. The '03 was a bit of a PIA to jet and liked rich specs, except the #6 slide which never worked well. The RBD head and a VForce reed block made it a lot better. Nowadays, with no more LTR needles, I'd work with the DDK/DEK for starters. That should get it close. We are running this needle in my brother's 250 Husky with a PWK38AS conversion and it runs great. The absolute best needle in the 250 IMO is the JD Blue from the generic PWK kit, its based on a DDK but has additional tapers. Before you go nuts make sure the items I mentioned are sound. Also, if the bike has a lot of time on it consider having Ron replace the nozzle, and check the float pin holes in the casting for wear/slop.
 
difference i see is that mine loves mid low range, in fact thats about all it loves. it loves pulling from down low, its just messy right at the bottom (pilot circuit) and at about 2/3-3/4 throttle. that, coupled with the fouled plugs and spooge, lead me to believe that the whole bike is rich. the plugs cleaned up alot with the cck needle, at least while it runs in that range. im also starting to suspect the powervalve may not be operating properly. im going to do some tinkering over the next few weeks (i picked up a 180 and a 175 main, and a 38 and a 42 pilot today. i figure going up and down on each will at least get me started in the right direction.) the county fair is this weekend, so starting next monday or tuesday depending on if harvest interferes, i will be checking the powervalve operation, putting a new clutch in (the old clutch basket is notched really bad) and starting to tinker with the carb and float. thanks for the replys guys! ill get back to you when i have a little more figured out.
 
The point is you could be partially masking a mechanical problem with leaner jetting if you do not verify everything is OK first, so don't waste your time. Bad reeds alone will do what you describe (sloppy low end), and I know for a fact and from experience that some of the fiberglass Boyesen reeds on the RAD valve get affected by modern pump fuel. If its an '03 I'd consider the reeds junk unless you replaced them yourself.
 
well when i pull the carb ill pull the reeds and see what they look like. so new shopping list: reeds, powervalve, all the other stuff GMP said, rejet. anything else?
 
thankya much! im really hopin its just jets....... or maybe reeds and jets and maybe the powervalve. the ignition and such are probably a bit over my head... not the connections part, but the other stuff.
 
I had similar problems and tried lots of different things, pv rebuild etc. only to discover after lots of grief that it was the new air filter I had installed.It turned out that it didnt allow enough air through . Just a thought!
 
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