white plug with As1, 182 and 45

stian

New member
Hi. Got a 06 Ec300, As1, N3EG (2clip from top), #182 main, 45 pilot. Reeds are good, gaskets are good, head cut for around 1,6mm squish. Piston is around 35H or less. BR9EG plug.

Bike is roadlegal supermotard. Sparkplug is still white. Isnt this weird? It idles, goes fine, maybe a small hesitation.

Next jets I have is 188 main and 48 pilot. I guess thats way to big.
10-15c, 500m attitude. Humidity I dont know, but its scandinavia.
 
Hi. Got a 06 Ec300, As1, N3EG (2clip from top), #182 main, 45 pilot. Reeds are good, gaskets are good, head cut for around 1,6mm squish. Piston is around 35H or less. BR9EG plug.

Bike is roadlegal supermotard. Sparkplug is still white. Isnt this weird? It idles, goes fine, maybe a small hesitation.

Next jets I have is 188 main and 48 pilot. I guess thats way to big.
10-15c, 500m attitude. Humidity I dont know, but its scandinavia.

Seems like you are jetted fairly rich, especially with the BR9, which is a colder plug than the OEM BR8. New plug? Sometimes they take a little time to color. Is the bike running hot or showing other symptoms of a lean condition?
 
Yeah I'm thinking fuel starvation on longer stretches. Increase float height, check tank vent, remove fuel filter.
 
Checking the plug after a WOT run? or just at random?

How does the bike run with the needle in clip 3?
 
There is no fuel filter. Ventilation is good. Going to increase float height some.
There is a fairly new plug, its been checked after WOT and a 200m slowride to my house. Anyhow, that would just make it more black and brown.

After some heavy pulls and WOT, the bike holds rpm a bit after reeving it. So thats a symtom of lean condition
 
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And an airleak.

Yes, but that would have been an symtom when the engine is cold also. I guess it can be more when expanding to heat, but.

Ill lower the needle and put the 45 and 182 back again. Put a old sparkplug on, just to watch the color
 
Yes, but that would have been an symtom when the engine is cold also. I guess it can be more when expanding to heat, but.

Ill lower the needle and put the 45 and 182 back again. Put a old sparkplug on, just to watch the color

I'd leave the needle clip alone.
If you are going to ride at sustained high rpm (or sustained high speed) runs, you will have to jet or (alter gearing) accordingly to keep from getting a lean condition.

I've found that the original 1997 13/47 gearing works good for dual sport riding, as well as all trail riding except for gnarly mountain single track.
 
Here in Australia, on 85-98RON fuels, at similar elevation and much higher temps 20-35C, with significant humidity I have ran the N3 needles through the whole range. Best setup is tends to fall around N3E#3 or N3C#3.

You probably want to be a touch richer on your main for the sustained WOT, however as a whole setup I'd be inclined to suggest going a touch richer across the board. It'll at least give you insight into if the bike is truly running lean or if the plugs just taking a while to colour up.
 
I agree that you should double check your float height. That will make a global change to your jetting.
 
Did you find the issue? If not I would say monitor tranny oil level as well in case of RHS crank seal leakage. Mine would suck oil at high RPM.
 
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