07-2011 side panel fastener help

nknudsen

Member
On the 07-11' bikes what type of fastener holds the side panel to the strut on the subframe? I'm not sure by going off the parts diagram. It's just a plain open hole in the subframe. I did get some cheap, loose fitting, plastic push pin rivet things with the transformation kit. Is that what goes there?
Thanks
 
Sounds like that's it. The 2011 had a plastic rivet type piece with a cheap plastic screw that just twists off anyways.
 
Sounds like that's it. The 2011 had a plastic rivet type piece with a cheap plastic screw that just twists off anyways.

What other type of fastener have people had good luck with? It's to bad GG didn't install a riv-nut like the rear fender mount to screw into.
 
I went through my '09 and replaced every fastener bolt with Yamaha wide head hex bolts, now 1 Allen key removes all of the body work and tank.
Thread is a standard metric 6mm
 
The push pin is designed to break away.
If it didn't, the air box cover will rip open in the event of a crash/loop out.
 
Its too bad that thinking didn't carry over to the '12, a loop out takes out everything!
 
Its too bad that thinking didn't carry over to the '12, a loop out takes out everything!

I have seen this happen to another members '12 300xc. the parts bill was
$550 from motocrosscenter ouch....
 
Ridiculous, more than a complete alloy '11 subframe. Why motocross center, no parts here?
 
WTF??:eek::eek: Seriously?

I'll part mine out before I spend that!

I don't ride my '12 like I ride my '07 for that reason, too fragile. I was in a situation last year where I followed a trail made by some local trials riders, ended up sideways on a small moss covered ledge, 5-6 foot drop. All I could do was push the bike off. No problems with the old bike.
 
WTF??:eek::eek: Seriously?

I'll part mine out before I spend that!

I don't ride my '12 like I ride my '07 for that reason, too fragile. I was in a situation last year where I followed a trail made by some local trials riders, ended up sideways on a small moss covered ledge, 5-6 foot drop. All I could do was push the bike off. No problems with the old bike.

Hard to swallow for sure. The member i refer to is now selling the bike, it's listed on this site. bummer.
 
As much of a hard core GG guy as I am, I would do the same thing, its just ridiculous and not affordable.:(:mad: Those are Ducati plastic prices, and why i sold it! Line has been crossed.
 
As much of a hard core GG guy as I am, I would do the same thing, its just ridiculous and not affordable.:(:mad: Those are Ducati plastic prices, and why i sold it! Line has been crossed.

+1 I admit thinking about how much i twist the throttle now and then.
 
I can't afford to drop that coin to fix a bike after a simple crash. Its why I never owned a 250F. I don't remember the prices being that bad, I thought about $100 a side and less than $50 for the inner fender. I'm a little pissed off right now!:mad:
 
I can't afford to drop that coin to fix a bike after a simple crash. Its why I never owned a 250F. I don't remember the prices being that bad, I thought about $100 a side and less than $50 for the inner fender. I'm a little pissed off right now!:mad:

Glenn,
Royalty did a # on his loop out. took out rear fenders, silencer,air box,seat,
Plastic spars(sub frame), side plates, sub frame brace, etc.etc. Iknow i'm missing stuff. but yah, expensive....He went on to tell me he even broke the alum.tang on the tank that holds the seat down...I've got photos
 
OK, thats extreme, but its still way to expensive. You should not break a seat and airbox! I'd worry more about just falling and sliding into stuff, or have someone bump or ram you in a race, happens all the time. In this case you can't even continue the ride!

I've got a msg in to my favorite dealer for parts prices, especially the rear inner fender. I have an idea, looking to cut most of it away behind the seat mount, right at the large stiffener rib (which will still seal the area)and add a nylon stiffener strip to the underside outer fender to replace it. Add just enough support so the fender will not flex in whoops and fail from fatigue, but can be manually flexed and twisted somewhat. Right now its rigid so sure something must eventually break. I don't need a tailight or tag mount so it may work for me. My silencer is mounted with rubber isolators, so these will flex(or tear) in a big hit before snapping the mounts off. Same with the left side panel. I already pulled this completely out of the slots in the spar in a crash on a log bridge, the isolator was stretched, I just grabbed it and popped it back in. Likely would have snapped that tab off with the stock alloy spacer.

My '03 EC250 had a similar problem, with the old alloy fender support loop. Bump the rear fender on a tree and it would tweak the subframe. Dumped the loop, added acerbis nylon support, problem solved. The '07 is pretty stiff back there, but the fender support should give up before the subframe bends/breaks. basically like KTMs were for many years.
 
Another thing to address for 2014. Put it on the list.

On the topic, I used some off the shelf mounts on my 2010 to replace the stock plastic insert and screw. Essentially the same thing but upgraded to a brass screw and a rubber insert.
 
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