2005 --> No Squawk. 2011 --> Some Squawk
- Thread starter AZRickD
- Start date
This guy has an opinion, backed up with MSDS references:
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikemineraloil.htm
He says there are alternatives, and even some "in a pinch" solutions, *if* it is flushed out fairly soon after one's "emergency." He doesn't like ATF or drug store mineral oil.
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikemineraloil.htm
He says there are alternatives, and even some "in a pinch" solutions, *if* it is flushed out fairly soon after one's "emergency." He doesn't like ATF or drug store mineral oil.
Thanks for posting the link! That answered a lot of my questions.
Whilst there is some good info in there that article seems to be discussing brake systems and he doesn't recommend using no name brands due to their inability to handle the heat. So would a clutch system experience the same heat conditions of a brake system?
Ill probably refrain from using baby oil in my clutch system nevertheless. But ill probably still run ATF or mineral fork oil in there opposed to the stupid expensive clutch specific mineral oils.
That rekluse basket is a work of art isn't it?
Fred1956
New member
Very nice looking & solid feeling as well
Hmm ok. Guess ill stick with the dear stuff. Thanks for the info.
Thats good information to know, thanks for the input!
I am in the middle of the conversion right now.
I did the loc-tited screw-in plug on the clutch side.
I then went to the slave side of the bike. I removed the old slave, line and master and layed it on the work bench to muscle the old connector.
I did the bleed procedure and found a nice, groovy rhythm to filling and allen wrenching and piston moving. Then I let it sit for a half hour and did it several more cycles.
I mounted it all to the bike and did the on-bike bleed procedure and was surprised that it took 30-pumps to get the master to pressurize. I was sure I screwed up somewhere, but it eventually came up. I backed out the screw and found "The Starting Point" and did one turn in plus 5 tics.
I decided to do a back-bleed with a syringe up through the slave. I am glad I did. Lots of micro-bubbles appeared in the master reservoir.
I'll bolt everything up, adjust the chain to my new 12T counter sprocket and give it a test.
I did the loc-tited screw-in plug on the clutch side.
I then went to the slave side of the bike. I removed the old slave, line and master and layed it on the work bench to muscle the old connector.
I did the bleed procedure and found a nice, groovy rhythm to filling and allen wrenching and piston moving. Then I let it sit for a half hour and did it several more cycles.
I mounted it all to the bike and did the on-bike bleed procedure and was surprised that it took 30-pumps to get the master to pressurize. I was sure I screwed up somewhere, but it eventually came up. I backed out the screw and found "The Starting Point" and did one turn in plus 5 tics.
I decided to do a back-bleed with a syringe up through the slave. I am glad I did. Lots of micro-bubbles appeared in the master reservoir.
I'll bolt everything up, adjust the chain to my new 12T counter sprocket and give it a test.
Bolted it all up and got it running to test the lever gain at 5,000-ish RPM.
The GG plastic chain thingy that bolts on over the case guard blocks the right-most tic marks. So when I got my "starting point" the single line on the allen screw adjuster was blocked. After I did my full turn, the indicator was obscured so that the first couple of the five extra tic marks were guesses.
So, rev 5,000. No lever movement. That means the clutch pack is too loose and is slipping (and I kinda like it that way). Anyway, I go counter clockwise one tic to snug up the clutch pack. No movement on the lever at revs. Two clicks, a bit of movement. One more tic and I get the requisite 3mm of lever movement under light finger pressure at 5,000-ish RPM.
Well, I actually like how the bike performs in the not-enough-free-gain mode. When it is set as per free-gain spec, I can feel it engaging the clutch pack a bit, even with the clutch lever pulled in.
Ah well. It's either keep it where it is or let it slip one tic. I'll probably obey the Rekluse R&D crew, even though I'm using Walmart ATF instead of the not-really-recommended Rotella Dino.
And... I love the dinky 12T counter sprocket. I'll love it even more on Saturday at 8,000 feet in Flagstaff.
More torque with the 36mm Lectron? Yeah, maybe I'll go 13/50 instead. Maybe.
The GG plastic chain thingy that bolts on over the case guard blocks the right-most tic marks. So when I got my "starting point" the single line on the allen screw adjuster was blocked. After I did my full turn, the indicator was obscured so that the first couple of the five extra tic marks were guesses.
So, rev 5,000. No lever movement. That means the clutch pack is too loose and is slipping (and I kinda like it that way). Anyway, I go counter clockwise one tic to snug up the clutch pack. No movement on the lever at revs. Two clicks, a bit of movement. One more tic and I get the requisite 3mm of lever movement under light finger pressure at 5,000-ish RPM.
Well, I actually like how the bike performs in the not-enough-free-gain mode. When it is set as per free-gain spec, I can feel it engaging the clutch pack a bit, even with the clutch lever pulled in.
Ah well. It's either keep it where it is or let it slip one tic. I'll probably obey the Rekluse R&D crew, even though I'm using Walmart ATF instead of the not-really-recommended Rotella Dino.
And... I love the dinky 12T counter sprocket. I'll love it even more on Saturday at 8,000 feet in Flagstaff.
More torque with the 36mm Lectron? Yeah, maybe I'll go 13/50 instead. Maybe.
Did a ride in Flagstaff with Chad.
I spent most of my time enjoying and tweaking the Rekluse EXP 2.0.
95% of the time it is magic. But I was having difficulty (even with the adjustable slave cylinder) to allow the clutch lever to work for me on the super technical Rocky Moto section or lofting over logs and boulders.
Without the clutch lever, the bike Rekluse would hook up too soon and never let the bike get into the power band. I had to dial in the adjuster to the point of (maybe on the edge of) not enough "Free Play Gain" in order to get the clutch pack to slip to my liking for various tasks. I don't want to have it slipping at higher Speed/RPM, though
I'll call Rekluse Tech for advice.
I spent most of my time enjoying and tweaking the Rekluse EXP 2.0.
95% of the time it is magic. But I was having difficulty (even with the adjustable slave cylinder) to allow the clutch lever to work for me on the super technical Rocky Moto section or lofting over logs and boulders.
Without the clutch lever, the bike Rekluse would hook up too soon and never let the bike get into the power band. I had to dial in the adjuster to the point of (maybe on the edge of) not enough "Free Play Gain" in order to get the clutch pack to slip to my liking for various tasks. I don't want to have it slipping at higher Speed/RPM, though
I'll call Rekluse Tech for advice.
On Saturday, I did 40 miles through Ocala National Forest. My clutch override is perfect and my free gain is at 3mm without any top end slip. If you are having top end slip, are your plates new or are they worn? I wish I could be more helpful, but I don't know why you are having that problem.
I'm not having "problems," I just want to tweak it to my liking.
The clutch has over 20 hours on it. It is well broken in. System bled to the best of my anal abilities. Same with the gap.
I got off the phone with Danny the Rekluse Tech. He said that my quickest and cheapest route to more clutch lever function would be to remove the X-rings that are installed to reduce clutch chatter. This was known to me but I'd rather not go there as yet.
He said that I would be safe to go as low as 1/16th inch (1.5mm) in clutch lever Free-play Gain which would result in a looser clutch pack.
I told him that I would like the clutch to engage a little slower off idle and would consider going one step stiffer than the blue springs. I wondered if that would cause the clutch to slip at high RPM. He said he could send me three gold springs which are usually for another application but would likely do what I want. He said that I should consider the springs to have the same range as a pilot jet in the carb. They'll slow initial engagement but will be overridden by the weigts at speed. Could be just want I want, especially since I like to have my motor idle at a higher RPM than Rekluse Inc. would suggest.
I am stall-phobic.
The clutch has over 20 hours on it. It is well broken in. System bled to the best of my anal abilities. Same with the gap.
I got off the phone with Danny the Rekluse Tech. He said that my quickest and cheapest route to more clutch lever function would be to remove the X-rings that are installed to reduce clutch chatter. This was known to me but I'd rather not go there as yet.
He said that I would be safe to go as low as 1/16th inch (1.5mm) in clutch lever Free-play Gain which would result in a looser clutch pack.
I told him that I would like the clutch to engage a little slower off idle and would consider going one step stiffer than the blue springs. I wondered if that would cause the clutch to slip at high RPM. He said he could send me three gold springs which are usually for another application but would likely do what I want. He said that I should consider the springs to have the same range as a pilot jet in the carb. They'll slow initial engagement but will be overridden by the weigts at speed. Could be just want I want, especially since I like to have my motor idle at a higher RPM than Rekluse Inc. would suggest.
I am stall-phobic.Similar threads
