Jakobi
Super Moderator
What brand fork and shock oils were you comparing it too?
2005 --> No Squawk. 2011 --> Some Squawk
- Thread starter AZRickD
- Start date
What brand fork and shock oils were you comparing it too?
One (or both) were Maxima.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid
Heres a good real life comparison re oil viscosities.
Couldn't find any ratings on the Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75 Mineral Oil, but at an average price of $15 for 100ml it would want to be the ducks..
Heres a good real life comparison re oil viscosities.
Couldn't find any ratings on the Motorex Hydraulic Fluid 75 Mineral Oil, but at an average price of $15 for 100ml it would want to be the ducks..
StuJohnson
New member
I'm not having "problems," I just want to tweak it to my liking.
The clutch has over 20 hours on it. It is well broken in. System bled to the best of my anal abilities. Same with the gap.
I got off the phone with Danny the Rekluse Tech. He said that my quickest and cheapest route to more clutch lever function would be to remove the X-rings that are installed to reduce clutch chatter. This was known to me but I'd rather not go there as yet.
He said that I would be safe to go as low as 1/16th inch (1.5mm) in clutch lever Free-play Gain which would result in a looser clutch pack.
I told him that I would like the clutch to engage a little slower off idle and would consider going one step stiffer than the blue springs. I wondered if that would cause the clutch to slip at high RPM. He said he could send me three gold springs which are usually for another application but would likely do what I want. He said that I should consider the springs to have the same range as a pilot jet in the carb. They'll slow initial engagement but will be overridden by the weigts at speed. Could be just want I want, especially since I like to have my motor idle at a higher RPM than Rekluse Inc. would suggest.I am stall-phobic.
This is all very good information that you got from tech support
I have not had time to go back and read all your posts but I am very curious if you got the thinner steel that is the first one installed in the pack (part # 67.1)?
I found some time to work on the Lectron (actually just fiddling with idle and a couple of twists to set the cable slack). After that, I opened up the clutch cover.
I was going to take the Rekluse Tech's advise and remove the X-rings to increase the clutch feel, but I decided just to replace three heavy blue springs for three new heavier gold springs.
All adjusted up. Not a whole lot off difference off idle, except that it increased my free-play-gain enough that I could back out the adjustable slave cyliner one tic.
This was all tested on the street.
It rained a lot last night. I sure would like to go hit some trails this weekend.
I was going to take the Rekluse Tech's advise and remove the X-rings to increase the clutch feel, but I decided just to replace three heavy blue springs for three new heavier gold springs.
All adjusted up. Not a whole lot off difference off idle, except that it increased my free-play-gain enough that I could back out the adjustable slave cyliner one tic.
This was all tested on the street.
It rained a lot last night. I sure would like to go hit some trails this weekend.
I found some time to work on the Lectron (actually just fiddling with idle and a couple of twists to set the cable slack). After that, I opened up the clutch cover.
I was going to take the Rekluse Tech's advise and remove the X-rings to increase the clutch feel, but I decided just to replace three heavy blue springs for three new heavier gold springs.
All adjusted up. Not a whole lot off difference off idle, except that it increased my free-play-gain (about double) enough that I could back out the adjustable slave cyliner one tic. Did it slow off-idle engagement? Maybe a bit. No slippage detected at speed.
This was all tested on the street.
It rained a lot last night. I sure would like to go hit some trails this weekend.
I was going to take the Rekluse Tech's advise and remove the X-rings to increase the clutch feel, but I decided just to replace three heavy blue springs for three new heavier gold springs.
All adjusted up. Not a whole lot off difference off idle, except that it increased my free-play-gain (about double) enough that I could back out the adjustable slave cyliner one tic. Did it slow off-idle engagement? Maybe a bit. No slippage detected at speed.
This was all tested on the street.
It rained a lot last night. I sure would like to go hit some trails this weekend.
I did a 33-mile rock-strewn ride with A and B riders. A few long, twisty, and technical hills gave me, the Gasser, the Rekluse, and the Lectron quite a test. I am very sore in the calves today. No getoffs or tip-overs for the day.
The Rekluse behaved exactly as I wanted it to. I was using the clutch lever when needed. I only had one bzzzt sound during the end of a particularly long climb. It lasted about the time it takes to say "bzzzt," and was no more.
No overheating, by the way.
The Rekluse behaved exactly as I wanted it to. I was using the clutch lever when needed. I only had one bzzzt sound during the end of a particularly long climb. It lasted about the time it takes to say "bzzzt," and was no more.
No overheating, by the way.
Yep. The Gold springs even gave me room to adjust the free play so the lever behaves as I want. I can now set the idle a little higher without it dragging me. The motor is revving slightly more during initial acceleration and it takes on steeper climbs without it bogging, which would require more manual clutch fanning. Heck, on parts of two steel hills, I just pointed & squirted and held on for dear life. No hand cramp on my throttle side was nice.
More miles needed to be certain.
Next project: I need to get into the power valve to see if there is any slack to be taken up.
More miles needed to be certain.
Next project: I need to get into the power valve to see if there is any slack to be taken up.
andoman
New member
Rick, Where did you end up with your final adjustment, i.e.: one turn + how many ticks?
I just upgraded to the adjustable slave and the adjuster bottoms at 1 turn + 4 clicks. At 1 turn + 0 the clutch behaves perfect. Just a little creep when I drop it into gear. It engages smoothly off idle. No slip at higher RPM.
I don't have a lever to check free-play gain as I have a LHRB.
Just looking for a little more data before I call Rekluse.
Which tech have you been working with? It would help if I could talk to the same guy.
Thanks!
I just upgraded to the adjustable slave and the adjuster bottoms at 1 turn + 4 clicks. At 1 turn + 0 the clutch behaves perfect. Just a little creep when I drop it into gear. It engages smoothly off idle. No slip at higher RPM.
I don't have a lever to check free-play gain as I have a LHRB.
Just looking for a little more data before I call Rekluse.
Which tech have you been working with? It would help if I could talk to the same guy.
Thanks!
I think the tech name is written earlier in this thread. It was not the two well-known guys who are usually recommended.
As far asxadjusting, i twisted tick after tick to and fro until the clutch behaved the way I wanted it to. Checking "clutch lever free play gain" was dead last on my personal check list. I think I'm about one turn and 4 or 5 ticks. I could go back or forth one tick and not have an issue. Mine bottoms aboit the same place as yours did. Kinda surprised me.
As far asxadjusting, i twisted tick after tick to and fro until the clutch behaved the way I wanted it to. Checking "clutch lever free play gain" was dead last on my personal check list. I think I'm about one turn and 4 or 5 ticks. I could go back or forth one tick and not have an issue. Mine bottoms aboit the same place as yours did. Kinda surprised me.
I decided to do some experimenting with oil during the last change.
Previously I had been using straight Walmart ATF, which I like.
With a tip-o-the-hat to the Rotella crowd, I did a 50/50 mix of Rotella Synth and Walmart ATF. I had used this ratio quite a bit up to about three years ago in my 2005 Gasser before going to my current routine of using 100% ATF.
The 50/50 mix of Rotella/ATF isn't as good for me as straight ATF. It seems a little grabby at idle. Other than that, it works, of course.
I'm still tweaking with the adjustable slave cylinder. I'm not quite sure where I want it. Mostly I don't want it dragging at idle, risking a stall. I'm willing to risk wear rates for that particular behavior.
Previously I had been using straight Walmart ATF, which I like.
With a tip-o-the-hat to the Rotella crowd, I did a 50/50 mix of Rotella Synth and Walmart ATF. I had used this ratio quite a bit up to about three years ago in my 2005 Gasser before going to my current routine of using 100% ATF.
The 50/50 mix of Rotella/ATF isn't as good for me as straight ATF. It seems a little grabby at idle. Other than that, it works, of course.
I'm still tweaking with the adjustable slave cylinder. I'm not quite sure where I want it. Mostly I don't want it dragging at idle, risking a stall. I'm willing to risk wear rates for that particular behavior.
andoman
New member
A couple of tips here from a long time Rekluse user (on both 2 and 4t's).
-a little drag in gear is good. It keeps the clutch from free wheeling. Guarantees you engine braking at every chop of the throttle.
-a little drag also gives a smoother and more predictable engagement. Too much slip just off idle allows it to rev then grab. Like popping a manual clutch. Very noticeable when it gets technical.
-you can avoid engine stalling due to the drag at idle by increasing the idle RPM. This has a desirable side effect of making the jetting at and just off idle less critical. Maybe one reason I haven't had any if the issues with my Smart Carb that others have.
Good luck with the experimentation!
-a little drag in gear is good. It keeps the clutch from free wheeling. Guarantees you engine braking at every chop of the throttle.
-a little drag also gives a smoother and more predictable engagement. Too much slip just off idle allows it to rev then grab. Like popping a manual clutch. Very noticeable when it gets technical.
-you can avoid engine stalling due to the drag at idle by increasing the idle RPM. This has a desirable side effect of making the jetting at and just off idle less critical. Maybe one reason I haven't had any if the issues with my Smart Carb that others have.
Good luck with the experimentation!
Last edited:
andoman
New member
That's exactly where I have my slave set.
I should note that I removed my clutch lever after initial verification of the free play gain. I have made several adjustments to the slave since, but I can tell by how much drag I have at idle that there is no way the gain would be too-little were I to have a clutch lever to check it with.
I should note that I removed my clutch lever after initial verification of the free play gain. I have made several adjustments to the slave since, but I can tell by how much drag I have at idle that there is no way the gain would be too-little were I to have a clutch lever to check it with.
Similar threads
