2005 --> No Squawk. 2011 --> Some Squawk

Yes they do. I re-read the Rekluse oil recommendation again. A very soft recommendation, now, ending with a "use whateve you use but if you have issues, give Rotella Dino a try."

I ordered their very pricey adjuster. I mentioned that some GG owners had issues with bleeding the component. He seemed puzzled by that.

What mineral oil are folks using in the 2011 AJP clutch master cylinders ? Someting cheaper than Magura Blood, I hope.

Lastly, I have red and blue disk springs in a baggy. I am wondering if using stiffer springs would allow me to ease back on the gap and keep the Rekluse behaving at idle. I wonder if I will have issues with mid-RPM engagement or hill climbing of a technical nature ?
 
AZRickD said:
I ordered their very pricey adjuster. I mentioned that some GG owners had issues with bleeding the component. He seemed puzzled by that.

What mineral oil are folks using in the 2011 AJP clutch master cylinders ? Someting cheaper than Magura Blood, I hope.

Lastly, I have red and blue disk springs in a baggy. I am wondering if using stiffer springs would allow me to ease back on the gap and keep the Rekluse behaving at idle. I wonder if I will have issues with mid-RPM engagement or hill climbing of a technical nature ?
Click to expand...

I used the Magura Blood but my master cylinder is a Magura. Mine was a *^tch to bleed. Here is a thread on which exp springs to use.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12441&highlight=rekluse+experts+please
 
The solution to too much drag (bad creep in gear at idle and engine stalling) is found in the small adjustment springs: Go with the blue ones.

DON'T try and modulate the clutch drag with the center hub adjustment. Stick with one turn+2 tick marks.

I think I ended up using the anti-squeal o-rings but I can't remember for sure. It still squeals when It starts slipping badly. Its really telling me that I need to shift down...
 
I've decided to start from scratch.

I removed the EXP ring and took it apart. The former owner hand a combo mix of copper-colored springs on one side and blue-colored springs on the other. The blue springs felt stiffer. I went with BLUE all the way around.

Looking at Rekluse videos on the web. ;)
 
EDIT:
Rick, I got my reply in after you had posted that you went with the blue springs. And I may be confused at the stiffness difference between the springs, but the blue ones are the ones you want. My un-edited post remains below:

The adjustment springs are the tiny ones under the 1/4 turn locks that hold the EXP friction disk assembly together. There are 6 of them.
For the Gassers the assembly comes from Rekluse with 3 blue and 3 red springs (medium engagement). That is typically too hard a set-up and causes stalling and a hard clunk and lurch when dropped into gear. There is way too much creep in gear at idle.
The silver springs are used for most of the Jap bikes and I gather from the table in the instructions that they are stiffer even than the red ones. Sounds like your used kit isn't for a Gasser. I recommend calling Rekluse to ensure that the plates and other bits are the ones you need. All the kits share parts, but there are also bike-specific parts in there.

Back to the blue springs:
Swapping out the springs for all blue ones will raise the engine speed required for the clutch to start engaging. You will get less clutch drag at idle and a smoother engagement as you roll on the throttle off idle.
Its confusing because the table labels the blue springs "High Springs." They are actually lighter springs and refer to a "higher" speed requirement for engagement.

The center pressure plate adjuster is used to adjust the feel of the clutch lever to rider preference. It effects how the lever feels when the clutch gets hot. Its small window of recommended adjustment of 1 turn to 1 turn + 4 tick marks (1 turn + 2 ticks being the starting point) ensures that as the clutch heats up it will disengage and as it wears over time it wont slip and cause premature wear.
 
The videos I've seen have the EXP ring full engaging the basket fingers.

Check out the photo to see that my EXP ring is only half way in.

Yes, I have 8 steels and 7 fibers.

Edit: The Rekluse video says this is normal -- http://www.rekluse.com/videos.shtml
 

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I think like the idle behavior a little better at 1 and 2 tics. Maybe not enough free play gain, but there is some. Not sure if I could quantify any higher rev slippage from last night's speed runs down the road.

What is the set up technique and adjustment process for the adjustable slave cylinder ?

For converting it back to a non-EXP Core-Only clutch, is it just a matter of removing the EXP ring and putting in my last (spare) friction and bolting everything up?
 
AZRickD said:
For converting it back to a non-EXP Core-Only clutch, is it just a matter of removing the EXP ring and putting in my last (spare) friction and bolting everything up?
Click to expand...

NO - You would have to buy the Rekluse Manual Clutch Pressure Plate... I looked into this myself.
 
I wanted to post an update. Today, I did a 40 mile ride through Ocala National Forest in Florida. The loop circles the perimeter of the Pinecastle Naval Range. The pairs of F22s were screaming in at tree top level at about 350 plus, wow, all the trees in the forest were moving, IT WAS AWESOME.

Ok, back to the ride. My Core EXP Auto Clutch with the Rekluse basket was PERFECT. Free gain was exactly right, full clutch overide, smooth engagement AND NO SQUAWKS OR EVEN SQUEAKS, good stuff. The Rekluse parts were worth the $$ and time to set them up with the Honda clutch pack. My corner speed has already picked up a lot.

I also just installed the Tubliss systems front and rear. This was my first time using the Tubliss and it is the sh#t! With the ability to run the lower tire pressures the tire contact patch is greater and hookup is very good.

I also ran the new GoFasters coolant cover and gaskets with a bigger impeller with spacer from Motocross Center. The motor ran cool all day even in the 95 degree heat plus humidity.

I am even more happy with the Gasser now, slinging more money into it just made the bike that more of a pleasure to ride. I love this bike!:D:D:D
 
andoman said:
EDIT:
Sounds like your used kit isn't for a Gasser. I recommend calling Rekluse to ensure that the plates and other bits are the ones you need. All the kits share parts, but there are also bike-specific parts in there.
Click to expand...

It is for a Gasser, I sold it to him. And I bought it from Grich300. It worked perfectly in my 12'. I bought it for my wifes bike to replace the dynaring, but the rekluse will not fit in the 97's. Not enough space in the clutch cover. I put in my 12' to make sure it worked and it did. I have the core exp 1.0 in my 12' and it works just as well. So I didn't need the core exp 2.0 I sold Rick. I may be a jerk, but I won't sell anyone on here crap. Especially Rick, he is practically a neighbor and we frequent the same races.

If it doesn't work for him I will buy it back. All he has to do is ask?
 
The adjustable slave arrived today.

Other than potential bleeding problems, everything else is pretty straight forward?
 
And the enduring google question, which oil for my. "Mineral Oil Only" AJP clutch master cylinder ?

Folks have suggested the gamut -- Magura Blood, 5wt or lighter fork oil, ATF F, baby oil, NAPA hydraulic oil, drugstore mineral oil (laxative), Motul...
 
AZRickD said:
And the enduring google question, which oil for my. "Mineral Oil Only" AJP clutch master cylinder ?

Folks have suggested the gamut -- Magura Blood, 5wt or lighter fork oil, ATF F, baby oil, NAPA hydraulic oil, drugstore mineral oil (laxative), Motul...
Click to expand...

I'm interested in this too. I did use motored stuff til I realised I was paying $15 for 500mls and can buy 2l of baby oil (perfumed mineral oil) from the supermarket for $2. I'm yet to run the baby oil but being mineral oil can't see it hurting anything. I guess the viscosity is an unknown as is long term performance so I'm hoping someone comments on this prior to me changing the fluids.
 
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