einsteingarage
New member
I did not have a plastic impellor and it wasn't rubbing The failure actually happened at the opposite side of the impellor shaft. That bearing let go or the shaft first then the bearing.
2010 EC 300 Water pump shaft snapped & bearing collapsed
- Thread starter justsam
- Start date
StuJohnson
New member
Recently saw this one as well.
In addition to new impeller it also adds a thicker billet AL spacer that raises the cover.....or that is what it looks like....?
http://www.motocrosscenter.com/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=667_686&products_id=2503
In addition to new impeller it also adds a thicker billet AL spacer that raises the cover.....or that is what it looks like....?
http://www.motocrosscenter.com/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=667_686&products_id=2503
Vindicator
New member
Anyone ever tried this ?
john r b
Platinum Level Site Supporter
No I haven't I see that it's listed for 01-09 ????
On another topic hose clamps. are they a one time use thing? Or special tool required? I'm in the process of installing checkpoint impellers in both bikes
2012 200xc & 250xc thanks.
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
you could order an 09 gasket and see if it is the same, if so, then you have the extra one that you would need anyway
GoFasters may be able to tell you if the part numbers are the same for 01-13 water pump gasket...
GMP
Active member
I suspect what that spacer in the kit does in add clearance for the impeller, which is deeper.
Gaskets are the same, as are the sidecovers. Pump covers are different, but only in external profile (flatter) from what I can tell. It seems to me like they tried to eliminate a secondary machining operation on the inside surface and rely on the cast profile, or the castings are undersized and uneven, which is why some appear to have a machined surface on only part of the area. That would be OK as long as clearances hold the impeller off the cover, but its not always the case.
Gaskets are the same, as are the sidecovers. Pump covers are different, but only in external profile (flatter) from what I can tell. It seems to me like they tried to eliminate a secondary machining operation on the inside surface and rely on the cast profile, or the castings are undersized and uneven, which is why some appear to have a machined surface on only part of the area. That would be OK as long as clearances hold the impeller off the cover, but its not always the case.
Vindicator
New member
Is it necessary to remove the engine from the frame to take out the side cover on a '11 ? Am I right to assume that when taking the side cover the entire shaft and plastic gear simply detach from the rest and come along with the cover ?
john r b
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I simply removed the pump cover then the side cover,after draining the fluids
first. 12' model though. and yes shaft and gear all come out together.
GMP
Active member
John,
You mean the impeller bolt won't budge from the shaft right? If you remove the pin from the shaft, and gear, the impeller and shaft will just come out the front with half of the two part pump seal. Do this, and clamp it in a vise with alloy soft jaws. If you still can't break it, remove the pump seal and try a little heat. Next, drill the head off and just twist the impeller. It may break but who cares. You can then grab the insert or stub with pliers. I've done one every way noted so far!
I used an end mill with a pilot to cut the rear of the impellar. Lathe would be better though.
Hose clamps pop apart with a screw driver between the small rolled/crimped looking sections. Hard to describe, just pry around and it will be obvious when it moves. You can reuse them, but I like the worm drive clamps.
You mean the impeller bolt won't budge from the shaft right? If you remove the pin from the shaft, and gear, the impeller and shaft will just come out the front with half of the two part pump seal. Do this, and clamp it in a vise with alloy soft jaws. If you still can't break it, remove the pump seal and try a little heat. Next, drill the head off and just twist the impeller. It may break but who cares. You can then grab the insert or stub with pliers. I've done one every way noted so far!
I used an end mill with a pilot to cut the rear of the impellar. Lathe would be better though.
Hose clamps pop apart with a screw driver between the small rolled/crimped looking sections. Hard to describe, just pry around and it will be obvious when it moves. You can reuse them, but I like the worm drive clamps.
Vindicator
New member
Here's another look :
john r b
Platinum Level Site Supporter
john r b
Platinum Level Site Supporter
So the 200xc impeller went smoothly,on to the 250xc so very glad I did WOW
the stock impeller had been significantly rubbing the cover. the wear marks are
on each blade. cover has grooving. bound to fail at some point for sure.
There is also a color difference in the two stock impellers. the one from the 250 almost looks burnt? Thanks for the tips GMP.
the stock impeller had been significantly rubbing the cover. the wear marks are
on each blade. cover has grooving. bound to fail at some point for sure.
There is also a color difference in the two stock impellers. the one from the 250 almost looks burnt? Thanks for the tips GMP.
GMP
Active member
Yeah, you can see the tips of the vanes have evidence. The groove in the cover can be secondary machine work as I mentioned, but that's not to say the impeller is not hitting in the same place. My bike was a lot worse. That impeller is very discolored, pictures of those in multiple pieces are usually that color.
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