2010 Gas Gas Six Days 300 (Help)

2011 300 Gas Gas Electric start

While the six days bike is being diagnosed would anyone like to see pics or ride reports on the new 2011 model with electric start. I have a 26 mile single track loop here at my house where I will be riding and setting up the suspension, I would be happy to share first hand knowledge of the bike. Should this be a seperate thread? I hear there are only a limited number that have been produced and available for the public to see.
 
onegreyghost said:
While the six days bike is being diagnosed would anyone like to see pics or ride reports on the new 2011 model with electric start. I have a 26 mile single track loop here at my house where I will be riding and setting up the suspension, I would be happy to share first hand knowledge of the bike. Should this be a seperate thread? I hear there are only a limited number that have been produced and available for the public to see.
Click to expand...

Ummm...YES! Post it up. Separate thread.

And please bring it by my house for me to ride. :D
 
Neil E. said:
It will be good to finally get this one solved. After all the work, it might turn out to be something really odd like the flywheel keyslot milled in the wrong place in the crankshaft. If the ignition was always several degrees out, your power level would be way down.
Click to expand...
Neil, That's funny I was thinking something like keyway milled wrong causing timing issue when I ran across your comment. As a mechanic these kinds of things are what eat your lunch but never twice. I once fixed a brand new Chevy truck that the camshaft slipped in the chuck during the profile grinding process so the valve timing got further off towards the rear of the motor.
 
Any Advice Please

Well the saga continues here with the six days bike. I thought the issue was fixed but the bike still runs poorly. Now the PV has been disassembled and reassembled new rings, squish band check, compression checked, leak down complete and the bike strugles to pull up to top end. The best way I can explain how the bike runs is it acts like the choke is engaged and can't rev above I guessing 5500rpm. I don't know this for sure because the tachometer has never worked on the bike since day one. I rode the bike this weekend, it seems as though its getting way to much gas. I got so pissed off I held it wide open at the reset and it seemed to run better for a few miles and then back to no top end. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE someone help me diagnose the problem before I start bashing gas gas. Oh by the way there was another guy on my row that was riding a 2010 EC 300 that would rip, I let him ride mine my bike, and he said the bike is sick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Have you tried a different carb? I have a buddy who had an 08 KTM 300XCW that wouldnt run right no matter how it was jetted. We ended up pulling another buddys carb off and putting it on his and the problem suddenly went away. Both carbs were jetted the same the floats were set the same on both yet the bike ran like crap with one carb.

KTM ended up warrantying him a new carb and the bike has been perfect ever since.

Just a suggestion.
 
Huh?

I don't have a GG yet, but......
Holy crap- isn't there a point in which somebody (@ GG) just says "ok, this one's a bad egg- just give him a new one" The parts and labor alone must have cost more than a new bike!
Seemingly unsolvable problems always concern me.
And, at some point, you get to the "hey, I do this for fun, right?" Doesn't seem like this guy's having a great deal of fun.
Ran better after you got rid of all that excess fuel, I bet.
 
Im sorry i didnt see this thread earlier

My 09 300 had the same issue as your describing. Good bottom and a bitch to get it into the top end. Dave Fair at Gas Gas Pacific did most of the things you've tried , like carb , cdi , all sorts of jetting , reeds and even a carb from an 08. They were thinking power valve at this point and checked it out , it looked good. Back to square one or so we thought , the power valve idea just wouldn't go away. He talked to Gofasters , and i think they hadnt run into that problem , if i remember correctly. So next was the factory and eventually was in touch with the factory race team techs. they said Power valve , and they said i believe to slacken it off , give it more free play . How and what dave did and what exactly was done to it , i was told , but im and old man with a bad memory. Contact Dave or get your Dealer to contact Dave and he can explain what he was told to do and what they did. I do know one thing for sure , I got back a bike that i was happy with it and it ran very well after that. Not 100 % but in the high 90's for sure. My 06 was the best running 300 ive ever had , but my Nambo beats that puppy up now. Dave's web site is here

http://gasgaspacific.com/contact.php

This is the page with all the contact info

I know Dave well and he will be happy to take the call , he wants us all to ride a bike were happy with , and he didnt stop till i was happy

Maybe this will help
 
Last edited:
My question is why is the clutch side cover getting so hot?
Something might be binding or seizing up when more RPM's are added.
I think the motor needs to come apart...or at least the the right side cover off.
 
Time to give you a new motor and send this one back to Spain for evaluation IMO. Some funky QC problems seem to be cropping up lately.
 
Probably got nothing to do with it but mine had a bogging issue when wacked to WOT quickly.
Ended up being crap in the fuel tap which restricted fuel flow.
Cheers Mark
 
You might consider using a dial indicator to find exact TDC and scribing the flywheel with a reference mark that lines up with a spot on the engine case (or scribe the case too).

Use the style of timing light powered from an external 12V battery and see how the ignition advances through the full rpm range. Without knowing the factory specs, you'd need to do the same for a good bike to get a valid comparison.

Barring poor compression or some mechanical issue that results in restricted air flow through the exhaust or intake, lack of power is usually the result of incorrect timing or incorrect mixture.
 
My six days again

I believe someone ask if I have changed the carb, yes I have, I took one off two different 2010 300 that were running great and it didn't improve the top end running of the bike. The two I used were keihin with the screw on tops and then I took one off a 2009 250 that has the two screws in the top that holds the slide into the carb, no difference. I even took the one off my 2008 KTM 250xc even though its a 36mm no difference. As far as the power valve assembly the mechanics have spoken to the techs in Spain and they walked them through the trouble shooting and nothing has changed.

I have the bike back and seems as though thats all GG is willing to do at this time, therefore I am stuck with a poor performing bike. I have ridden the bike for about a month total and I have never been more dissapointed with a company and distributor. I have a GG 300 Raga trials bike and a trials course set up at my house with those huge tires, but if this is how GG is going to treat me then both will be sold and I will purchase a beta and another KTM 250xc.

I can't understand why they want ship another engine and carb for the bike. Your right I do this for fun and not a living and this has been a nightmare thus far. especially when I hear all the comments from the forum, we all seem to agree its a lemon, four mechanics have try to diagnose the issue and failed but some how I have the bike back in my possesion.

I will call Dave but I am tired of working on this thing and not riding it!!!

I will keep everyone posted if the new importer for the U.S. will help me out but Clay has had his mechanic look at the bike as well but its not fixed.

All I can do at this point is hope GG will stand behind their product. I have documented everything so far and maybe a letter to the CEO of GG in Spaing might help.

Please keep trying to help me diagnose my issue because you guys are all I have to help me out at this time
 
Have not read all of these posts... so coming in late on this one.

Reeds, check them? Probably have as it sounds like the bike has been went through. Unplug 2 stage ignition? change out CDI or check entire wire loom for chaffed or pulled wire?

Sorry to hear your having this nightmare.

Roscoe
 
TTX Suspension

Hey guys if GG doesn't replace the motor or bike then I will be selling the OHLINS TTX suspension from coppersmith. Its been valved and sprung by Tom the owner of coppersmith. The bike handles great just doesn't run worth a shit. I will need some help posting it either here or on ebay, but lets hope it doesn't come to that!!!

I will keep everyone posted
 
Replaced parts on the Six Days

New carb
New CDI
New Coil
New Voltage regulater
New stator and wiring harnes
New dual mapping switch
New Exhaust and muffler
New Reeds and v-force intake
Verified compression and leak down test
New manual Choke
New Rings base gaskets
New Orings in the head
PV dissasembled twice (techs from Spain helped the mechanics out)
Several jets and needle changes
Float level checked
Cleaned fuel tand and line
 
Does the bike start and idle ok?
Because this sounds like a problem I had, not when the bike was new but it developed into a problem where the bike would start and idle fine, but once I tried opening the throttle a bit, it would act like it was bogging horribly, and wouldnt run properly, it would run fine at lower revs but as soon as the throttle was opened wider it would bog and not rev out, at all.
I cleaned the carb out about 4 times, checked reeds, pv operation, barrel, piston, rings, pipe for blockages, air intake for blockages, cut the kill switch out of the loom completely. Nothing made any difference and I was taking the bike to the dealer the next day, I checked all the wiring connections, cleaned them all out, and found one that was loose as a $^% in a sock, I squashed the female connector back down, I cant remember which one it was(the bike has a race loom which is about 4 wires), but that solved the problem.
You say that the harness was replaced, can you be 100% positive that the whole harness was replaced, but the symptoms of the bike could be put down to a loose electrical connection.
You say that there is excess unburnt fuel in the cases, and it seems to bog, so its not burning the fuel, as you have changed the carbs, its not a carb problem, so the only other thing that can explain it is the electrical system, that being the stator(that was replaced) the CDI(that was replaced) have you changed the ignitor coil and checked the connections on the ignitor coil and good and tight, if the connecting that delivers power to the ignitor is loose, then it can not create enough spark thus bogging due to not being able to burn the fuel. So either their is a broken or loose connection on the loom somewhere, or the stator is sending the timing out in a wacky timing.

You have obviously changed the spark plug aswell?
 
Replaced Parts

I am 100% sure the parts above were replaced because I helped the mechanic in Kentucky do the changes. We changed each part individually and I would test ride the back after each change. We left the replaced parts on the bike until everything I mentioned above was on the bike at the same time. We actually placed three carbs on the bike. I was not present for the the ring replacement but the bike was ridden right after the ring change. We had a new 2010 300ec there as well, that we could ride to establish a baseline between how differently the two bikes ran campared to each other.
 
My cell number

Heck guys here is my cell number if anyone would like to call and chat instead of using the forum. 704.975.3005, I am in TN eastern time zone give me a call. Here is my work cell too 423.782.9190
 
The PV, I assume both the governer and the drum/flapper in the cyl was R&R and checked?

Have they visually checked the actual operation with the right PV cover removed?

It could be something binding the mechanism, like a rough casting or the rod draggging against the cases/gasket as it passes through (I have seen one very close), or the bellcrank pivot. Something that is not obvious when disassembled or taken for granted. There isn't much left other than a radical QC problem like an incorrectly keyed crank.

Edit: Sorry I re-read the thread and realize my questions have been repetitive.

What if you/they disconnected the PV rod, and temporarily safety wired the PV fully open to eliminate the actuation question? The bike should run flat down low, then hit like a truck and rip on top.

Try and verify that the spark is constant at the RPM level where the problem occurs with an inductive timing light.
 
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