2013 ec250r

Jakobi

Super Moderator
I took ownership of this lady the other day!

P1010426_zps83663c38.jpg


During PD, we scrapped the stock jetting. It was 42 N1EF#3 175. I don't know how thats expected to work, but went to 42 N3EW#2 178 and she fired up on the second kick. Did I little 20m run and called it done.

Back at home she's been pulled down again and I'm slowly working through getting things set the way I want.

Been greasing bits and pieces (will save linkage and steering stem bearings until suspension service time - 10hrs).
I need to get some rad guards on order, will likely go with Force as they've held up well for me on the 2010. Will also be adding another P3, and running it with the stock bash plate.
Removed the indicators and rear fender number plate holder. Nicely planned here with a drop out panel to access the connections from below. I've packed some foam in where the wires used to exit and also run some tape over the joins to keep the mud out.
All wiring behind the headlight pulled down and cleaned up and zip tied for a nicer fit. Connected up the hill switch for the lighting block. Will run the other one too!
Removed the cross brace on the Renthal Twinwalls - need to purchase a fatty bar pad.
Scrapped the lever mounted choke and installed the plunger.
Air filter needs a reoiling, and a few burrs/casting flaws need to be removed from the sealing surface in the airbox.
Airbox lower joins will be sealed with marine grade black sikaflex. Lower drain has had the slit extented to open easier (and wider).
Compression reading taken on my guage. Its a cheapo that includes the volume of the adapters and tubing and always reads low. Got 140psi where my reduced and corrected S3 head got 145psi (both using a single .5mm base gasket). I have yet to measure the squish.
Chain guard removed.
Thats about all for now, until more parts arrive. Then I'll think about riding it.

Still haven't decided if I want to pull the head before I break it in or after, and I still have to go over the suspension and measure up the sag figures. I'm thinking I'll probably go straight to a 5.4 rate rear spring which I have on hand if the 5.2 doesn't get the numbers I'm after. Dave at Suspension matters specced up a set of fork springs on a 300R not long ago and they came in at .44 which doesn't sound too far off.
 
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No button. Race model, kick only. Have noticed the kick starter occassionally does its thing where it doesn't engage as well as it should. Looks like I'll be in stretching the spring at first service too.

Anyone with the later models had to do much in relation to the powervalve? Preload, shims, etc. I also have a 8mm spacer I can install to give some more volume on the LHS cover, which is the newer style one (not the finned style). I think I'll ride it before I change that up though.
 
Nice, think you will really like it. Waiting to hear a ride report when you get it sorted.
 
new bike

Nice! That will be a big help for me, since I know you won't be able to leave it alone. ;)
 
Congrats Jakobi, the 13' is quite nice and kicked out some of the gremlins of past models . Don't forget the ride report :)
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely be posting up a ride report, but I'm expecting it will likely be at least a week or more before I take it in the dirt.

The whole purchase was very spontanious/implusive, and I'm interested to see how well I gel with this bike. It was a run out deal (last one in Aus) and I got it for the right price with the 2014 stock just arriving (300R+E-start only).

The 2010 has had many hours racked up and most used developing or improving what was already a great machine out of the crate. I'm excited to see how the 48mm Marzocchis stack up against the TTX cartridges. The 888 shock will likely require some internal changes. I know my old 888 doesnt compare to my TTX stock for stock, and since revalving the TTX its easily the best I've ridden. That will keep me busy!

I'll also have everything from the old bike here so I'll likely end up transferring some parts back and forwards to evaluate whats suspension/engine and whats chasis. Factory race team time.
 
Very nice Jake, i think you'll like the new 48mm Zokes - and hate that rear brake lever (tho it looks like there is a solution for that now).

If u need indicators for the rear still, u can get tiny LEDs that glue onto the mini rear fender thats left once u rip all the crap off the back - they work well, and may require re-glueing once a season.

Do you know anyone in OZ that is familiar with the new 48mm's? I hear Costanzo Racing is good with the old ones - 50mm.
 
I've just stripped the lighting all except the brake light and headlight. I'm happy with that.

I don't think she'll need much in the way of jetting, but I have just about every needle I'd ever need available so should be quick and painless. Still not sure which bike to test the Smart Carbs latest updates on.

I'm going to be servicing and revalving the forks and/or shock myself. Are any tools required for cracking the inner cart? Do we have any cross overs for seals and bushings yet?

David at Suspension Matters has set up a set on a 2013 300R, and is closest to me. I think a Wence and Nato have had theirs done by Terry Hay at Shock treatment too. Steve (twowheels) on here also has a good understanding of these internally. Should be able to get them working better than stock without too much fuss.
 
I don't think she'll need much in the way of jetting, but I have just about every needle I'd ever need available so should be quick and painless. Still not sure which bike to test the Smart Carbs latest updates on.

I'd vote for the '10. The carb is just so much more accessible if you're going to be doing much in and out work. Then again, if it's only metering rod clicks, why not try it on your new bike ...
 
I've just stripped the lighting all except the brake light and headlight. I'm happy with that.

I don't think she'll need much in the way of jetting, but I have just about every needle I'd ever need available so should be quick and painless. Still not sure which bike to test the Smart Carbs latest updates on.

I'm going to be servicing and revalving the forks and/or shock myself. Are any tools required for cracking the inner cart? Do we have any cross overs for seals and bushings yet?

David at Suspension Matters has set up a set on a 2013 300R, and is closest to me. I think a Wence and Nato have had theirs done by Terry Hay at Shock treatment too. Steve (twowheels) on here also has a good understanding of these internally. Should be able to get them working better than stock without too much fuss.




Yep terry hay revalved mine jake and I am extremely happy with it. But I am going up on the spring rate next service. I look forward to hearing how you go with the 888 rear as I changed the spring on it and left the valving alone and im really happy with it. Though in saying that I can only judge it on what I have tried.
 
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