StuJohnson
New member
Come on already......Throw the damn Lectron Carb on it. Adjust your Sag ride that damn thing!!!!!!!!!
2013 ec250r
- Thread starter Jakobi
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Quick question for Simmo (or those in the know).
Air box.. I can't say I'm a real fan. The way the filter sits recessed into the front of the box makes it hard to know if you have a positive seal (more so than usual). Any tips? I'm also going to fill the joins around the base of the box and rear fender with some sikaflex marine. Whats the easiest way to get access, do a clean job, and still seal it up. I bought the small tube to help in that regard. Apply some and wipe away with a moist rag? Also, the huge air vent in the lhs airbox panel. Looks like it breaths well but it also appears to be just right for feeding water directly onto the side of the filter. Wet season is coming, and creeks and mud are everywhere up here. I don't want the new steed drinking any more water than it needs to.
Other than that everything else is progressing nicely.
Air box.. I can't say I'm a real fan. The way the filter sits recessed into the front of the box makes it hard to know if you have a positive seal (more so than usual). Any tips? I'm also going to fill the joins around the base of the box and rear fender with some sikaflex marine. Whats the easiest way to get access, do a clean job, and still seal it up. I bought the small tube to help in that regard. Apply some and wipe away with a moist rag? Also, the huge air vent in the lhs airbox panel. Looks like it breaths well but it also appears to be just right for feeding water directly onto the side of the filter. Wet season is coming, and creeks and mud are everywhere up here. I don't want the new steed drinking any more water than it needs to.
Other than that everything else is progressing nicely.
When you apply the sika use some soapy water in a squirter bottle and once you put the sika on give it a spray and it wont stick to your hands, spray your hands also and the finish will be a whole lot neater. As for the filter sealing I am not sure if the airbox is different from the'12 but from experience with filter sealing I usually line it up and send it in and as it goes in I can feel a bit of a slide in to its slot kind of surge umm hard to explain. But the amount of times I think hmm its not sealed I still have not yet had any problems. To not get a seal I think it would have to be a terrible fit?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
True that Nath. Very similar with the 2010. The 3 pins do give an odd feeling if one isn't lined up and kind of clicks as it locates in. I guess I just like to be able to give it a visual around the edge. Will come with time.
Appreciate the tips with the sikaflex. I've got a set of WP OC forks to get a start on in the morning and then will move onto the new ride. Gotta remember to change my front tyre on the oldie too.
I ran the compression gauge over the 2010 model with what must be around 85hrs on this piston and rings and got a reading of 135psi (on my inaccurate low reading gauge). So a drop of 5psi isn't too bad at all! The new bike also pushed out 140psi which leads me to believe the trapped volume on the two engines is likely very similar. The S3 head should transfer over and give a slight bump in compression if I use the single 0.5mm base gasket, while bringing the squish down to 1.25mm, or the same CR if I run 0.6mm gaskets and 1.35mm squish. So taking that into account that the S3 head was machined to reduce volume, then the squish on the new head will be a bit bigger than ideal. I'll still run it in and see how it compares.
Appreciate the tips with the sikaflex. I've got a set of WP OC forks to get a start on in the morning and then will move onto the new ride. Gotta remember to change my front tyre on the oldie too.
I ran the compression gauge over the 2010 model with what must be around 85hrs on this piston and rings and got a reading of 135psi (on my inaccurate low reading gauge). So a drop of 5psi isn't too bad at all! The new bike also pushed out 140psi which leads me to believe the trapped volume on the two engines is likely very similar. The S3 head should transfer over and give a slight bump in compression if I use the single 0.5mm base gasket, while bringing the squish down to 1.25mm, or the same CR if I run 0.6mm gaskets and 1.35mm squish. So taking that into account that the S3 head was machined to reduce volume, then the squish on the new head will be a bit bigger than ideal. I'll still run it in and see how it compares.
StuJohnson
New member
Jake
Buy this AL filter cage from Twin Air.
It makes for a very tight fit and the reassurance that the filter is installed 100% and sealed off.
http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products/15_17/Twin_air_filter_cage_and_pre_oiled_filter_kit_383.html
Vindicator
New member
That's what I use on my '11, it has a better fit than stock .
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Any hardware/marine/automotive store should have the sikaflex. I got it at Bunnings, which is just a big franchised home improvement warehouse. Was in the section with the rest of the sealants.
The aluminium subframe most definitely came stock in Australia for the 2013 Racing models only. I wouldn't have settled for the plastic after reading others issues.
The aluminium subframe most definitely came stock in Australia for the 2013 Racing models only. I wouldn't have settled for the plastic after reading others issues.
Simmo737
Gold Level Site Supporter
The way the air filter seats in a recess makes it actually hard not to seal it, it's a good design, wear disposable rubber gloves and feel around the edge as wence says. BUT you need to check for burs etc so it doesn't cut the filter.....how do I know?
In australia Sikaflex is a brand name for silicone sealant, it has become like calling cola coke, or a vacuum cleaner a Hoover.
In australia Sikaflex is a brand name for silicone sealant, it has become like calling cola coke, or a vacuum cleaner a Hoover.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Mine has some poor moulding on the main seam at the top flat surface. I recall having to clean up my 2010 model a bit too. I agree the nature of the filter design (namely the way the filter wraps around the frame) makes it very hard to not get a seal. I used to worry on the old bike and now in comparison its so much easier to check. Haha! I'm sure with time and feel the skill will be in place.
Looking forward to riding this steed.
Ended up ordering Force rad guards again. I've had a good run from them on the old bike, but they haven't been tested too hard either. Most damage is from light tip overs and roost/trail trash thats impacted the front grill.
If the stock gg bashplate doesn't have access to the crank case drain and/or sump I'll drill these in before fitting it up, just to make life easy!
Looking forward to riding this steed.
Ended up ordering Force rad guards again. I've had a good run from them on the old bike, but they haven't been tested too hard either. Most damage is from light tip overs and roost/trail trash thats impacted the front grill.
If the stock gg bashplate doesn't have access to the crank case drain and/or sump I'll drill these in before fitting it up, just to make life easy!
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Sikaflex 241 is the best sealant out there, period, except for 3M 5200. West Marine is your best bet to find either of the sealants. I would use 5200 first, but it takes forever and a day to dry, unless you squirt some water on it. Magical stuff. Both sealants celan up with 3M Adhesive Remover (in the red and white can). I spent years (YEARS) applying both sealants, and cleaning up the resultant mess.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Not the best job out there I'm sure... but will hopefully do the trick! Thanks for the tips Nath. I first tried to use the tube to apply in a nice clean fashion but due to insufficient lighting and limited workspace that went up the creek. Found the best approach was to squeeze some out, wet the finger, wipe into the void. Wipe finger, wet again, and smooth it out. Repeat this process until you have enough and a finish you are happy enough with.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I also rebled the front brake on my 2010 as it was getting spongey last ride. Few bubbles came out for sure and its now nice and firm with good bite again. The 2013 model feels so soft and progressive in comparison. Both lock the front end, but they feel at the lever is so different. Both running the brake switch still too. Its almost like the difference between a Yamaha and a Honda. Have they changed master cylinders recently? Has anyone else noticed this? Tried bleeding the line?
Simmo737
Gold Level Site Supporter
I rebled using 5.1, the pads appear the same as the 2011s, indeed the lever never gets a better feel. The upside is that the brakes are really good after about two or three applications, they need heat, and are indeed more progressive.
The feel is a bit spongey riding around the car park horsing around but are good once going. All IMHO.
The feel is a bit spongey riding around the car park horsing around but are good once going. All IMHO.
