2013 ec250r
- Thread starter Jakobi
- Start date
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Been playing with her some more today.
Things I've done so far:
Airbox
Grease Linkage + Wheel Bearings/Axles
Reroute some wiring/cleanup behind the headlight
Check clickers on suspension
Set sag on shock. Stock spring 36mm free, 98mm race. Seems to be in the ballpark.
Remove middle bolt from lower triples, torqued to 12Nm.
Of course I did some jetting runs.
42 N3CJ#3 178 - burble off the bottom, bit lean and tinny just off idle, strong mid to top. Coming out half a turn on the air screw really showed a drop in torque confirming too lean on the diameter.
42 N3EW#2 178 - still burbling off the bottom. Very smooth off idle however fell a little flat before coming onto the pipe very hard. Felt similar to when I ran 40 N3EW#2 178 in my old bike the other day. Wasn't ideal on the trail.
so now I'm off to shuffle some jets around and I'll suspect this will put me into the right place cleaning up the bottom end, still being smooth off the bottom, and retaining some decent mid to top end pull. Who wants to guess what it'll be?
Things I've done so far:
Airbox
Grease Linkage + Wheel Bearings/Axles
Reroute some wiring/cleanup behind the headlight
Check clickers on suspension
Set sag on shock. Stock spring 36mm free, 98mm race. Seems to be in the ballpark.
Remove middle bolt from lower triples, torqued to 12Nm.
Of course I did some jetting runs.
42 N3CJ#3 178 - burble off the bottom, bit lean and tinny just off idle, strong mid to top. Coming out half a turn on the air screw really showed a drop in torque confirming too lean on the diameter.
42 N3EW#2 178 - still burbling off the bottom. Very smooth off idle however fell a little flat before coming onto the pipe very hard. Felt similar to when I ran 40 N3EW#2 178 in my old bike the other day. Wasn't ideal on the trail.
so now I'm off to shuffle some jets around and I'll suspect this will put me into the right place cleaning up the bottom end, still being smooth off the bottom, and retaining some decent mid to top end pull. Who wants to guess what it'll be?
StuJohnson
New member
Installing the Lectron....
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
Haha not a chance Stu!
Was it you that had issues with the rear brakes?? I can't even really get the back end to lock up while standing on the pedal. Front is behaving like Simmo said. Very progressive.. reminds me of a Yamaha. I think I prefer a firmer bite so I'm not sure what I'll do to address that.
Suspension seems to have broken in considerably after less than an hour. I'm sure it'll loosen up some more yet, but looking promising. Can't wait to get it into some real nasty crud and work out what needs to be done to make it even better.
Force rad guards bolted up this morning.
P3 Composites Guard under the Christmas tree (and maybe a G2 Quick pull throttle cam too).
Still need to mount up the brush guards, bash plate, and the kill switch.
I'll grab a handful of M5x25 bolts when I'm next in town and will add the 8mm PV spacer on and see what that does to the bottom end grunt.
So far I'm at 40 N3CW#3 178 and its running pretty well. Doesn't feel quite as vibey/rough as the old donk. Power wise I don't think there is much in it. The old one is running 2 rear teeth shorter gearing. I think the new one feels a bit softer/burblier off the bottom but takes revs a bit easier. Reminds me of how my old engine felt before I did the head. I'll likely do the same and have this one machined up ASAP. Just not sure if I want to try and get an S3 working, or just mill down the stocker. Anyway, not sure when I'll have time to drain the coolant to measure that up. I'd like to check the PV tension as well but seeing as last days were spent rebuilding the old girl I think I deserve a bit of time off before hooking back into the next one.
Was it you that had issues with the rear brakes?? I can't even really get the back end to lock up while standing on the pedal. Front is behaving like Simmo said. Very progressive.. reminds me of a Yamaha. I think I prefer a firmer bite so I'm not sure what I'll do to address that.
Suspension seems to have broken in considerably after less than an hour. I'm sure it'll loosen up some more yet, but looking promising. Can't wait to get it into some real nasty crud and work out what needs to be done to make it even better.
Force rad guards bolted up this morning.
P3 Composites Guard under the Christmas tree (and maybe a G2 Quick pull throttle cam too).
Still need to mount up the brush guards, bash plate, and the kill switch.
I'll grab a handful of M5x25 bolts when I'm next in town and will add the 8mm PV spacer on and see what that does to the bottom end grunt.
So far I'm at 40 N3CW#3 178 and its running pretty well. Doesn't feel quite as vibey/rough as the old donk. Power wise I don't think there is much in it. The old one is running 2 rear teeth shorter gearing. I think the new one feels a bit softer/burblier off the bottom but takes revs a bit easier. Reminds me of how my old engine felt before I did the head. I'll likely do the same and have this one machined up ASAP. Just not sure if I want to try and get an S3 working, or just mill down the stocker. Anyway, not sure when I'll have time to drain the coolant to measure that up. I'd like to check the PV tension as well but seeing as last days were spent rebuilding the old girl I think I deserve a bit of time off before hooking back into the next one.
Vindicator
New member
Great tasks on the horizon but in the meantime feed us with some pictures 
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I stil don't have a nice photo of her posing fully dressed.. I'll work on it.
The footpegs seem to sit a bit strange on her too. I think its the actual pegs themselves and that the stops are touching a bit soon. I'll likely just deal with it for a bit and then replace them with something else.
Linkages didn't look massively greased from the outside with not much on the pins. Removing the bushing and inpecting internally there was a decent coating of grease however I wiped them out and repacked em up good.
The footpegs seem to sit a bit strange on her too. I think its the actual pegs themselves and that the stops are touching a bit soon. I'll likely just deal with it for a bit and then replace them with something else.
Linkages didn't look massively greased from the outside with not much on the pins. Removing the bushing and inpecting internally there was a decent coating of grease however I wiped them out and repacked em up good.
gasser
New member
I stil don't have a nice photo of her posing fully dressed.. I'll work on it.
The footpegs seem to sit a bit strange on her too. I think its the actual pegs themselves and that the stops are touching a bit soon. I'll likely just deal with it for a bit and then replace them with something else.
]
My only gasser that I purchased new was an 07 250 that came from the factory with one footpeg angled backward and the other angled forward both at a 10-15 degree angle. Maybe the frame got bumped in the jig before the peg mounts were welded on. I never fixed it just rode it that way.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Huh?? Thats not the old girl.. Thats a yellow submarine!
Not sure if the pegs are S3 or not. They're what came with the bike. Much sturdier than previous years. I don't think the issue is with the frame or the mounts (has adjustable peg mount that bolts to the frame). All looks good with this. I just think the pegs need to have the stop ground down some so they can sit in a bit further.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Took it for another quick run around the block. Pretty happy with how its running at the moment. That was after installing an 8mm PV spacer. When I have some free time I'll pull the head and measure the squish up and then send it out to be worked over by Dave at TSP. I'll measure up the squish with the S3 head and silver insert while I'm at it, but I don't think I'll bother with getting it running with that head. I'll just save it for a fall back if I'm unhappy with the changes of the machined head; very unlikely 
desertgasser300
Banned
LOL, I did actually wind up fixing the footpeg angles on that 07'.
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I just saw this announcement about the 2014 brakes. I thought the prior models also had Galfer discs as well but some probably weren't the "wave rotor." On my 2011 the front disc is not a "wave" rotor but it will launch you into the trees if you grab it too hard. When I get home I will check to see if its a Galfer rotor.
http://www.galfer.eu/index.php/en/galfer-moto/item/1755-new-enduro-gas-gas-2014-range-with-galfer-discs
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I have the galfer wave rotors on both my 2010 and 2013. The rear brake feels like its just not biting at the disc. Possibly still burning the assembly grease/oil off the disk. I have given them a clean. The front is more to do with actual feel at the lever. The brakes still work quite well, but the lever has a soft progressive feel rather than a very firm bite.
Bandit9
Platinum Level Site Supporter
hamilton
Gold Level Site Supporter
The front is very progressive and I though it felt weak at frist. After racing it this season. I found it works extremely well when using two fingers, takes a little practice but works great. The rear is also progressive and works great with high temp fluid. Just make sure the pedal is not hitting the frame under hard braking.
twowheels
New member
Ditch the brake switch up front (and possibly in the rear), do a good bleed with high temp fluid and ... clean your disks BEFORE you ride. You may need new pads to deliver a decent bite if the anti-corrosion coating is burnt into your originals.
