2019 ec300 fuel

mrquick said:
Power valve noise on decents and when trundling along road sections, so I have striped the power valve out and found alot of sideways movement so I made a stainless shim, placed it on the water pump side of the barrel, I basically halved the play in the valve and boy what a difference its made its quiet as a mouse now...
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A while back I had the same rattle on decents/overrun and found side to side play in the power valve, I too fixed it by adding a shim each side. Interesting you had the same issue on a new(ish) bike, I thought it was just because mine is a well used 2004 bike. :)
 
Davehuge said:
A while back I had the same rattle on decents/overrun and found side to side play in the power valve, I too fixed it by adding a shim each side. Interesting you had the same issue on a new(ish) bike, I thought it was just because mine is a well used 2004 bike. :)
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It seems like they all do it Dave, some people it doesn't bother them but me I hated it, the S3 head sorted alot of issues out because its lowers the compression ratio, the bike runs smoother, starts easier just genrally so much better than standard..... Mine has done about 47 hrs now
 
Thanks for the update mrquick. What has the S3 head improved, I am thinking about getting one too and have the same bike. Is it stronger down low? is it easier to lug in a too high gear?

Cheers Doc
 
Davehuge said:
Sounds great... although surely reducing compression ratio = less power?
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Yeah nah yeah!

Increasing compression ratio increases power up to a certain point.. Too much compression can result in you having to run richer than ideal to stop pinging. Higher octane fuels can help as well.

High comp ratios tend to be quite snappy and responsive off idle. Taking some out lets the engine feel smoother... which is not always a bad thing in a dirt bike where we often struggle to put power to the ground.

I prefer to set my engines up with a tight squish (improved efficiency and power across the rev range), while keeping the compression ratio reasonable (to allow use of average fuels without worrying about pinging).

Lots of aftermarket tuners/head designs bump impression because it's an easy way for the end user to feel a change through seat of the pants.
 
mrquick said:
43851694990_f7ff43c722_b.jpg
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Mrquick, who's pipe guard is that that(manufacturer part#)?

Mine came delivered with a guard(propower) and it's a very ugly fit(points in the wrong direction at the small end )and needs some rubber mallet encouragement to fit........sort of :(

Personally I believe it's the wrong one for my bike.

Edit.... After looking at the"Propower" website, they have a pic of the same poor fitting item I have..........Maybe it's time to buy someone else's :(
 
The sump guard is a 6mm AXP unit with link guard. Additional graphics are from the UK GasGas importer's accessory site via the link in my earlier post.

Enduro Engineering wraparound guards and rim decals from eBay in the UK.

The UK GasGas importer, John Shirt, is a really good guy, veteran expert rider and has been the importer since GasGas started in the UK. He has massive spares stocks going back to early models and ships worldwide every day.
 
Great thread--subscribed, as I've got a 2014 Christini with what appears to be a 2013 (at the newest) GASGAS 300 EC in it. Per the GG shop manuals, the bike should have a Keihin 38 on it, but I've only recently got the bike and haven't yet got good access to it where it's stored.

Did the carburetion change significantly from 2013 to 2019 on GG's 300 EC's?

Thanks.
 
EC300 2019 jetting

Hi all, been reading all the posts re, jetting for 2019 EC300. I?ve just picked up a low mileage 18hrs only EC300 and it?s running a bit rich. I live on the Gold Coast Australia and ride from 0-500 feet in temps of 13-30?c. Previous owner mentioned jetting is pretty standard, I think he changed the main but not the pilot or needle. Running Maxima Castor at 40-1, this was already in the bike and I had planned to use the same, I?m a bit old school!. I now many of you mention to change the needle and main, but so many posts I?m getting a bit lost. Any guidance on base settings would be much appreciated. Thanks


Davehuge said:
If you give us your location/altitude/temperature then Jakobi might be kind enough to suggest a starting point for jetting, to give you a head start. :)

The standard no.7 slide is usually OK, so it"s a matter of trying different needles, main jets, pilot jets and clip positions. Most important to just make one change at a time, then test and keep notes so you don't get lost.

Make sure you're using a good quality full synthetic oil mixed at 50:1 (usually 50:1 but please check).

If you speak to your dealer (where you've just spent thousands) I would hope they'd help you out with supplying jets/needles at a discounted price! I wish GasGas and other manufacturers supplied a selection of jets/needles with their bikes.

Congratulations on your new bike, it looks stunning, I'm very jealous! :D
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I always used 40:1 but the reality is that you jet according to your mix.

so stick with one mix and adjust the jetting (I would also go a bit further and stick with one 2-stroke oil too)
 
Im in Sydney have a 2021 reiju ,which is same as yours I ride in same temps and elevations . NEDW needle on 2nd clip from top ,40 pilot ,air screw 1 1/2 turns out ,standard main .The needle is a triple taper as opposed to the double taper standard needle. Its from a Suzuki RM 250 . MX store on the Gold Coast will have it .Good luck
 
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