noobi
New member
A bigger rear will make it more fire breathy, but with a lower top speed.
A bigger front or smaller rear is what you would use to calm the beast. Slower response and acceleration, but a higher top speed.
Calming down the EC300
- Thread starter iamovru
- Start date
A bigger rear will make it more fire breathy, but with a lower top speed.
A bigger front or smaller rear is what you would use to calm the beast. Slower response and acceleration, but a higher top speed.
My 2c
I have owned my ec300 for 18 months now and have spent some time setting it up , its an '09 i picked up s/h. I was / am very happy with it until .........
......... Recently I purchased a '14 Yz450f , if any of you have ridden one yet, the thing is an absolute power house!!! =-O . Got back on the ec and decided I need some more low down "snap" .....
.... I knew the ec had multiple base gaskets ( the guy who owned it before me tried to tone it down , he was scared of it lol ). He ran 2x 0.5mm & 1x 0.3mm base gasket, the bike ripped in the top end but was a subdued off the bottom and a bit down on mid punch. I removed the top end and installed a single 0.5mm base gasket, it now punches hard down low and torques wonderfully over logs at low revs ( not what op wants ). Best part - I only had to turn the mixture screwin 1/4 turn to sort jetting.
I strongly suggest the op considers this cheap option , I believe you will be very happy with the results.
My gearing 13 x 48 ( I ride it on the road ).
N3cj , 178, 40 , stock pipe, squish - who knows but probably lots , it really is pretty stock motor wise. Suspension, that's another story.
I have owned my ec300 for 18 months now and have spent some time setting it up , its an '09 i picked up s/h. I was / am very happy with it until .........
......... Recently I purchased a '14 Yz450f , if any of you have ridden one yet, the thing is an absolute power house!!! =-O . Got back on the ec and decided I need some more low down "snap" .....
.... I knew the ec had multiple base gaskets ( the guy who owned it before me tried to tone it down , he was scared of it lol ). He ran 2x 0.5mm & 1x 0.3mm base gasket, the bike ripped in the top end but was a subdued off the bottom and a bit down on mid punch. I removed the top end and installed a single 0.5mm base gasket, it now punches hard down low and torques wonderfully over logs at low revs ( not what op wants ). Best part - I only had to turn the mixture screwin 1/4 turn to sort jetting.
I strongly suggest the op considers this cheap option , I believe you will be very happy with the results.
My gearing 13 x 48 ( I ride it on the road ).
N3cj , 178, 40 , stock pipe, squish - who knows but probably lots , it really is pretty stock motor wise. Suspension, that's another story.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Ahuh! I agree, the cost of 2 gaskets is cheap!
As noobi said - gearing it shorter (larger rear/smaller front) - will make it pull through gear gear faster. I would call this more work; more gear shifts, and more aggressive/snappy. The opposite will smooth things out, and while it will be 'faster' in total speed (and in each gear), the duration of each gear will take longer which makes it more subdued.
Rear sprock divided by front sprocket = rear wheel final drive ratio.
50/13 = 3.84, so for every revolution of the front sprocket/drive shaft, the rear will turn 3.84 times. 48/12 = 4 and 48/13 = 3.69
As noobi said - gearing it shorter (larger rear/smaller front) - will make it pull through gear gear faster. I would call this more work; more gear shifts, and more aggressive/snappy. The opposite will smooth things out, and while it will be 'faster' in total speed (and in each gear), the duration of each gear will take longer which makes it more subdued.
Rear sprock divided by front sprocket = rear wheel final drive ratio.
50/13 = 3.84, so for every revolution of the front sprocket/drive shaft, the rear will turn 3.84 times. 48/12 = 4 and 48/13 = 3.69
iamovru
New member
OK, So I have 13/49 now and If I were to go the front sprocket route. You guys suggest 14/49 for a slower response. What does it do to the jetting if I raise the base gasket?
After I read this I think I understand what you are trying to solve. The hit right off idle. I think the g2 will be great for that. If you raise your cylinder your squish will increase and from all the treads on here your jetting will likely not be as good. Raising your cylinder with your current head will likely make it smoother down low but I would not assume your jetting will say consistent.
On the gearing. Going to the 14 will spread it out but....It may now require you to run in a lower gear than before. Sounds like with the 13 49 and the good low end you have you could drive around all day in 3rd. That would be pretty smooth.
Get the G2 and report back
StuJohnson
New member
Don't want to offend anyone here on all their comments.
But I too wanted to do the same thing to my 300.
I disagree or think that all these ideas of changing gaskets and re-gearing is getting WAY too technical for what he is actually trying to achieve.
For me I did 2 things:
1) Installed the G2 throttle and cams (200 or 300 for me) to help calm her down.
2) Installed the S3 flywheel wt --- I know a lot of you don't seem like this is a good idea. I felt the exact way prior to buying it. 23 oz is a lot of wt. But TRUST me it is AWESOME!!!!
I would start with G2 throttle. And if still not happy then look into removing the e-start (I don't have, don't want it and don't think you need it) The bike starts so easy anyway!!!
Like I said just my honest opinion based off the exact thing that I wanted to do to my 2012 - 300
But I too wanted to do the same thing to my 300.
I disagree or think that all these ideas of changing gaskets and re-gearing is getting WAY too technical for what he is actually trying to achieve.
For me I did 2 things:
1) Installed the G2 throttle and cams (200 or 300 for me) to help calm her down.
2) Installed the S3 flywheel wt --- I know a lot of you don't seem like this is a good idea. I felt the exact way prior to buying it. 23 oz is a lot of wt. But TRUST me it is AWESOME!!!!
I would start with G2 throttle. And if still not happy then look into removing the e-start (I don't have, don't want it and don't think you need it) The bike starts so easy anyway!!!
Like I said just my honest opinion based off the exact thing that I wanted to do to my 2012 - 300
StuJohnson
New member
2nd that
Marc. We ride same trails and area. Trust me. Stay with 13/48
I never agree with going smaller on front end. That the poor mans solution and just wears out the chain guide in no time...IMO
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
I don't think a 14T front sprocket will fit - no room for chain around the front of it.
Changing the engine setup will probably take a little tinkering to get the jetting back on par. It may be as little as an air screw adjustment, or a clip position change. It does take a little work.
Sprockets are quick and easy, as is the G2. I'd probably start with the throttle cams and go from there. Worry about cylinder and port timing when you come to doing the top end.
Changing the engine setup will probably take a little tinkering to get the jetting back on par. It may be as little as an air screw adjustment, or a clip position change. It does take a little work.
Sprockets are quick and easy, as is the G2. I'd probably start with the throttle cams and go from there. Worry about cylinder and port timing when you come to doing the top end.
djroggen
New member
14t does fit but not particularly well. 12t is not meant for the bike. Plenty of options for rear sprockets. I would never tear a motor down to change port timing unless I was in there already. It is a very small change but when coupled with a head and jetting, then it adds up
I have a 03 EC250. Live in Oregon and ride a lot Oregon Washington single track in all types conditions. Had same complaint about calming down my engine to be more roll-on. Tried a lot different things and the one thing that made all the difference in the world was a needle. Went with a CCK and the bike now rides like a trials bike. A simple needle can make a big difference on 2-strokes. I know you stated you like your jetting, but hate to see you throw a bunch of money and aftermarket parts at it. Try a calm needle. Think you'd be surprised. I was. Perfect for NW slimy single track...maybe I'll see you at Shelton Enduro...
iamovru
New member
iamovru
New member
No we really appreciate your advice or at least I do. The last thing I want to do or have time to do is take my motor apart. Its more of a time thing with me than anything else. I have changed gaskets, pistons, rings etc on 2T and 4T. I really want to look for a simpler way first.
Marc
Marc,
I went with a CCK needle that I ordered through Jets R Us. I've also read that others like the DDK. You'll probably also have to change your main and pilot to match the "milder" needle. Those "N" needles are pretty aggressive. The CCK has a gradual taper which gives you that roll-on feel. All the "N" that I tried and looked at are step tapered which gives you the unwanted hits while riding tight trails. Fun for wide open stuff though! There is an old thread here about this type of jetting that I'm using. It was suggested for a 300, but I copied for my 250 and it's awesome for NW single track riding.
Also, you had mentioned a possible head modification. I suggest RB Designs. He is in Portland,OR and is very experienced in 2-stroke engines. I've used him before and he does great work. The head mod will make the jetting easier and give you a more crisp throttle response. Will also make idling better. Especially here in NW when one weekend you may ride coast trails at 500'-1000' sea level and the next your riding Cascade Mt trails at 4000'-6000' sea level. Hope this helps.
Rob
I went with a CCK needle that I ordered through Jets R Us. I've also read that others like the DDK. You'll probably also have to change your main and pilot to match the "milder" needle. Those "N" needles are pretty aggressive. The CCK has a gradual taper which gives you that roll-on feel. All the "N" that I tried and looked at are step tapered which gives you the unwanted hits while riding tight trails. Fun for wide open stuff though! There is an old thread here about this type of jetting that I'm using. It was suggested for a 300, but I copied for my 250 and it's awesome for NW single track riding.
Also, you had mentioned a possible head modification. I suggest RB Designs. He is in Portland,OR and is very experienced in 2-stroke engines. I've used him before and he does great work. The head mod will make the jetting easier and give you a more crisp throttle response. Will also make idling better. Especially here in NW when one weekend you may ride coast trails at 500'-1000' sea level and the next your riding Cascade Mt trails at 4000'-6000' sea level. Hope this helps.
Rob
rosco
Gold Level Site Supporter
I think the biggest problem with the 300 is it has so much torque down low that it works better with higher gearing. But when you get into the nasty stuff most people start clutching it, not from lack of power but because they can't keep up with the bike.
I think that's why I like the 250 over the 300. Even though it doesn't have the low end torque of the 300 I can actually control the power better in the nasty stuff with the clutch.
I use to ride 125's in the woods so I am use to fanning the clutch all day, I kind of enjoy it. But if I had to ride a 300 around all day I think I would have to have a rekluse in it. I just can't seem to manage the kind of power that the 300 puts out when in the real nasty stuff. If you gear it down low enough to were u can keep up with the bike without clutching it well then it has so much torque that it want's to break loose.
I think that's why I like the 250 over the 300. Even though it doesn't have the low end torque of the 300 I can actually control the power better in the nasty stuff with the clutch.
I use to ride 125's in the woods so I am use to fanning the clutch all day, I kind of enjoy it. But if I had to ride a 300 around all day I think I would have to have a rekluse in it. I just can't seem to manage the kind of power that the 300 puts out when in the real nasty stuff. If you gear it down low enough to were u can keep up with the bike without clutching it well then it has so much torque that it want's to break loose.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Exactly what I found Rosco. Hotted up 250 will still chug and lug as well as the 300, but moves the aggression up the power curve. Means you still get a nice smooth torquey bottom end, and just as much mumbo jumbo up top. The only trade off its that you get a more aggressive transition between the two. I feel the softer bottom end is woth the trade off though.
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