justinholmes10
New member
Amazing post. I'm just about to attempt my bottom end after something in there locked up shortly after burying it in a swamp. This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks !
Complete Rebuild - EC250
- Thread starter RockefellerGG
- Start date
justinholmes10
New member
Just a quick question.. Did you use an impact for the flywheel nut, and was it threaded on normally, or opposite like the crank nut? (Since it is on the other end of the crank)
Jacob 'Berg
Member
Flywheel nut is NOT reverse thread (turn counter clockwise to loosen). I use a chain vice grip to hold the flywheel in place and then a breaker bar to break the nut loose. After that you will need the flywheel puller to get the flywheel off.
justinholmes10
New member
Sweet, thanks guys.
RockefellerGG
New member
I use an impact to remove nuts/bolts. Not for installing them. I cracked an expensive clutch basket a while back using an impact to install.
justinholmes10
New member
So, as stated earlier, I am in the process of replacing some crank bearings on my 2007 EC200 Hobby. I want to be a little pro-active and order the parts while waiting on a flywheel puller. Other than the bearings, seals and gaskets, what else should I order? Will it be necessary to replace the locking washer/tab for the clutch basket or can I be re-used?
Jacob 'Berg
Member
You can re-use the retaining washer on the clutch basket. I used one of the tabs that had not been folded over previously.
New top end?
RockefellerGG
New member
If you're doing crank bearings and seals, it may not hurt to replace the kickstart, shifter, and waterpump seal... and the primary seal/o-rings
I didn't think about this and decided to order them while I'm doing the crank seals.
I didn't think about this and decided to order them while I'm doing the crank seals.
Last edited:
RockefellerGG
New member
Transmission
Time to disassemble the transmission. When you split the cases, the gears may be in the opposite case side... mine came out this way, so here it goes:
Slide out the shift rails:
I marked the position of the shift drum, so I can make sure it goes back in the right orientation:
Removed the shift drum:
Carefully remove the gear sets, keeping track of what went where:
Time to disassemble the transmission. When you split the cases, the gears may be in the opposite case side... mine came out this way, so here it goes:
Slide out the shift rails:
I marked the position of the shift drum, so I can make sure it goes back in the right orientation:
Removed the shift drum:
Carefully remove the gear sets, keeping track of what went where:
RockefellerGG
New member
Crank Seal Removal
Remove the crank seals:
On the other half, remove the spacer, and remove the seal:
Remove the crank seals:
On the other half, remove the spacer, and remove the seal:
RockefellerGG
New member
Remove the seal for the primary shaft. There are 2 o-rings. One inside the spacer and one behind the spacer.
RockefellerGG
New member
Removing the crank bearings
Time to clean it all up:
Removing the crank bearings:
I started by removing all of the alignment dowels to let the case half sit flat. I used a large socket (1 1/16") to drive out the bearing:
For the other side, I used a flat screwdriver inside the edge of the outer bearing race and drove it out. The bearing cage broke leaving just the outer race. I applied a little heat to help it release.
Time to clean it all up:
Removing the crank bearings:
I started by removing all of the alignment dowels to let the case half sit flat. I used a large socket (1 1/16") to drive out the bearing:
For the other side, I used a flat screwdriver inside the edge of the outer bearing race and drove it out. The bearing cage broke leaving just the outer race. I applied a little heat to help it release.
RockefellerGG
New member
To help identify when it was last rebuilt, I etched in the date near the original factory etching. Maybe this will help some future owner... who knows.
RockefellerGG
New member
The pic looks worse than it is. Smooth to the fingernail.
I used heat on the other side, where there is nothing to hit, but it still took some persuasion.
I used heat on the other side, where there is nothing to hit, but it still took some persuasion.
RockefellerGG
New member
Since there are no raised edges, the new bearing should still drop right in. No ball or rotating surface will ever touch that surface... I'm not losing any sleep over it.
Looks like your doing a nice rebuild, Jakobi makes a good point about heating the cases. Use an oven or a hot plate. The bearings will drop right out. Freeze the new bearings. When you put it back together, reheat the cases, and drop the frozen bearings right in, no tools required.
Ill be doing a full rebuild here in a couple weeks, i may use your pics instead of the manual, nice write up.
Ill be doing a full rebuild here in a couple weeks, i may use your pics instead of the manual, nice write up.
