Cylinder Removal?

mcnut

mcnut

New member
I've never done a GasGas top end before today. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the power valve push rod from the lever plate so I can remove the cylinder. Short of prying it off, I don't have a clue.

311350_198903136844897_100001756359064_450450_787927025_n.jpg


I tried searching the forums. Found a whole bunch of stuff I wasn't looking for. Even the power valve DIY wasn't helpful. It says to "remove" it.

I've spent way too much time on this already. I need to have this bike back together tomorrow so it can be ready for the Muddobbers National Enduro on Saturday.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
jeffs2200 said:
I just gently pryed mine off. I can not see any other way.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I sort of twisted mine out of there, turning the plate sideways a little. Keep flipping it around and wiggling and you'll find a way to ease it out of there with minimum trauma.

The great news is you got the nut off without breaking the stud off of the actuator plate. That can be a PITA.

Have fun on Saturday, and good luck!:cool:
 
I just did this. It is very easy to pull the right side cover off. You can then very easily remove the rod from the lower end. No prying or flexing. It also allows you to check that the PV is in proper adjustment. You burn a couple of gaskets this way( right side, water pump), but it makes it nice and easy.
Good luck.
 
I pried it off. Got past that hurdle.
Started reassembly. Now I can't figure out how to keep the o-rings in place while installing the head. The small one was wadded up in the packaging it came in and won't lay flat at all. The big one is flat but won't stay in the groove either.:eek:
 
Yes, I always just grease the Orings. They will stay put really well this way.

Funny thing about the nut on the rod for the pv. I was expecting it to be very tight. Mine was so loose it almost fell off.
 
Tried grease. No way it's gonna work. Large o-ring seems about 1mm smaller than the slot it's supposed to go in. I can't keep it in place using 2 hands and all my fingers evenly spaced. The smaller diameter one is so distorted from poor packing I don't have a clue how to make it work unless I superglue it down.
What's wrong with head gaskets?! Jeez!
 
I recently went thru the same thing, used grease and made it work. If its hot and sunny outside lay the orings on top of a car and let them get hot, maybe that will help.
 
When you apply a little grease to them run your fingers around the inside and stretch the o-ring. Obviously you want to evenly distribute the stretching or you'll damage it. Stretch it and place it down.. if it pops out.. go a little more.. repeat.. You'll get to a point where it finds its happy medium.
 
Thanks everybody. I finally got them in there after borrowing my daughter's hair dryer and increasing the amount of grease.
I sure like head gaskets.
 
Why take the head off, unless you want to measure squish or something. I never separate mine, the barrel comes off easy enough with the head still on.
 
bchatt said:
Why take the head off, unless you want to measure squish or something. I never separate mine, the barrel comes off easy enough with the head still on.
Click to expand...


good tip!!
any idea how to see wich ones just hold the cilinderhead and wich ones hold everything?:)
 
bchatt said:
Why take the head off, unless you want to measure squish or something. I never separate mine, the barrel comes off easy enough with the head still on.
Click to expand...

i don't even pull the head for squish. i use an 'L' shaped piece of solder and gently insert it/check it. if i get 3 - 4 repeatable measurements in different locations. i'm pretty sure it's close... once you know how long the bottom of the 'L' needs to be to hit the cylinder wall(gentle!) it's simple.
 
I posted in another thread about using a cake spatula to help flatten the o-rings a bit as you drop the head onto the cylinder. This helped me out a ton. Not a large rubber or plastic spatula, but a flat thin metal one, almost like a spackle that you would use for drywall. The spatula I used was about 1.5" x 9" long. Spray some WD40 on it too. :D
 
I'm gonna fry n flip some eggs for breakfast :D Spatch that!

Good to know theres a few different methods. I have to agree its much easier to leave the head attached unless you have a specific reason. I last pulled mine to take several squish measurements and to set the port timing.
 
I use the grease method and run my finger over the o ring a quarter section at a time holding the loose end with the other hand. It seems to hold pretty well after 3 - 4 rep's per qtr, then continue onto next qtr without lifting finger off.

Job done!
 
GGEvo said:
I use the grease method and run my finger over the o ring a quarter section at a time holding the loose end with the other hand. It seems to hold pretty well after 3 - 4 rep's per qtr, then continue onto next qtr without lifting finger off.

Job done!
Click to expand...

Ride report with fresh top end?? :rolleyes:
 
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