Gas Gas ec 2006 1st gear problems

The bolts holding the clutch plate on only need 8-10Nm, not a lot by any means.

The AJP clutch master uses mineral oil. DOT4 will do bad things to all the seals. May require a rebuild now :( A flush or two and you might get lucky.

Did you check the fingers of the basket to see if they are notched? As others have said, its not uncommon for there to be some drag, and not uncommon for the discs to stick if the bike has sat for a while. I tend to grab 2nd gear and rock the bike a few times before going back to neutral to start it. After that it just works.

I thought with the bolts usually you would tighten until you feel resistance then "nip" them up? I got to the point it gave me resistance and loosened slightly, not sure why lol.

How do I go about flushing the clutch system? Do I just "bleed" it and empty reservoir and then fill up with new fluid? What would it be called exactly?
 
You could use something like Motorex Hydraulic 75, but personally I'd be using a 5wt synthetic fork fluid. Pull as much of the DOT4 out of the master as you can and then continue bleeding the fork oil through until you feel you've adequately flushed the lines out.
 
A syringe is useful for sucking out mcyl.a messy alternative is to flip the cyl on/off the bars.flush 3or4 full reservior's thru.safest bet is a seal kit on master and slave,as the seals often swell with exposure to dot fluid
 
Well, I put in mineral oil today and no change :(.

A friend also has a crf 250 that is stored at the same place as mine, his bike was cold and I held in his clutch and it has very similar clutch drag to mine so I'm thinking maybe it's not as bad as I think and hopefully changing oil will help it.

Still no luck with neutral though. It wouldn't be possible that something I put together in the gearbox is causing this? I can find neutral when the bike is off but it just falls to another gear once pushed.
 
I can find neutral when the bike is off but it just falls to another gear once pushed.

This is normal; you need more time on the bike to get used to the shifter travel. Most everyone shifts to neutral before they are fully stopped. Is the lever set at a good height to match your riding boots?

One thing you might try: when you are in first gear and stopped, tilt your leg outward so your foot also tilts. This should move the lever slow enough that the mechanism can actually land on neutral. Or maybe if you are in second, try giving the lever a little tap with your foot. It should take only a small movement to get neutral.
 
This is normal; you need more time on the bike to get used to the shifter travel. Most everyone shifts to neutral before they are fully stopped. Is the lever set at a good height to match your riding boots?

One thing you might try: when you are in first gear and stopped, tilt your leg outward so your foot also tilts. This should move the lever slow enough that the mechanism can actually land on neutral. Or maybe if you are in second, try giving the lever a little tap with your foot. It should take only a small movement to get neutral.

I had a 2 stroke before this bike, they are always a pain to get into 1st but never like this. When the bike is off/on I have had someone by hand select neutral but as soon as I give it a little rev or move forward it will just jump to another gear which rules out any sort of angle problems. I'm hoping it's down to oil or something and not something I've done wrong in the gearbox even though every gear works perfect.. Except neutral!
 
Well, I put in mineral oil today and no change :(.

A friend also has a crf 250 that is stored at the same place as mine, his bike was cold and I held in his clutch and it has very similar clutch drag to mine so I'm thinking maybe it's not as bad as I think and hopefully changing oil will help it.

Still no luck with neutral though. It wouldn't be possible that something I put together in the gearbox is causing this? I can find neutral when the bike is off but it just falls to another gear once pushed.

Clutch drag on a non-running motor is nothing to fret about. Kickstarting mine in gear is a chore.

Your second point has me confused. Let me get this straight.. Bike is in neutral and not running.. and will fall into gear when you roll it forward?
 
Clutch drag on a non-running motor is nothing to fret about. Kickstarting mine in gear is a chore.

Your second point has me confused. Let me get this straight.. Bike is in neutral and not running.. and will fall into gear when you roll it forward?

I can start the bike in gear really easy, it will jolt forward a small amount.

Basically like any bike if the bike is running and I've come to a stop I can't find neutral, if I do by chance find it then it will jump into another gear as soon as I rev or move the bike.

If the bike is OFF and I try by hand I can find neutral but again as soon as I move the bike it will jump into gear so neutral basically does not exist.

Also if bike is killed and I pull in clutch it won't move, it will be locked up as if the clutch isn't pulled in, once I go up atleast TWO gears it will free up but have some drag. Once I release the clutch lever and pull it in again it will lock back up until I go through gears which seems to free up the clutch or something?
 
So it jumps into gear as soon as the bike rolls. Something is wrong. It could be something as simple as the springs that return the gear selector to its resting position.. but I don't know enough about these transmissions to say anything more.
 
So it jumps into gear as soon as the bike rolls. Something is wrong. It could be something as simple as the springs that return the gear selector to its resting position.. but I don't know enough about these transmissions to say anything more.

It doesn't even roll, have you ever had it that you put your bike into neutral but didn't do it properly so it falls back into gear? I've had it a couple times on previous bikes but it happens pretty rare. That is what happens with this bike whenever I manage to get neutral. Only happens with Neutral too.
 
I'd be checking the selector mechanism on the rhs of the engine. For it to hold neutral it just catches a small notch in compared to the other gears. May be rounded off a bit.

P1010021_zps34cb90b1.jpg


LHS of this pic. You have the gear shaft and then the selectors. On the other side you have the spring loaded arm. Check that.

RHS engine cover back off, get it in neutral, watch what happens.
 
P1010027_zps66e49cc9.jpg


I think it sits up between two gaps like in this pic for neutral. The other gears allow the arm to roll over and into the recesses.
 
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As Jacobi said, check the selector mechansim. I think I had a similar problem when rebuilding my son's EC300 for the first time. I seem to remember that I had done something wrong with the parts 6-9 in the above picture, so that part 6 wouldn't move freely.
 
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