Gas Gas ec 2006 1st gear problems

There should be a washer under gear 1 and between gear 1 and 5. If you're missing the washer between the two, that could be enough to bind it up.
 
Ive fixed that and haven't put the cases back together yet. I noticed looking at the 2 shafts the gears arent flush at the top but on your image and the manual they are.

Any ideas? Im not missing any washers ect.

pic http://imgur.com/KIyOqZy
 
Check to be sure the first gear isn't flipped upside down. I had mine upside down at one point. When it was upside down, everything was bound up and wouldn't shift. I'd temporarily put the cases together and see if it goes through the gears.
 
P1010094_zps51032012.jpg


Did you have the washer right on the top? Check orientation of top gear.
 
Well I feel like the biggest idiot ever. The top gear was on wrong. The gear goes in like 2mm deep on one side, I thought that was a nice groove for the washer but it wasn't. I switched around the gear and it all went in smooth. Engine is back together now and seems to be turning over fine. Will give it a test run tomorrow.

Thanks all!
 
So I took it out and it was both good and bad.

I started off for about 15min taking it really easy since it's all fresh, I started to use the powerband occasionally but not hard (seconds at a time).

After about 30min the powerband stopped working, power was great right up until top end and it was just flat. I took the powervalve cover off and noticed that my bad attempt at fixing a previous problem had come off so play was present in the powervalve mechanism. That is now fixed and powerband is great.

Next up is my clutch.
It doesn't work when the bike is off, I know most 2 strokes have problems with clutch if it isn't started and warm but this clutch simply does not work if it's off, no "almost working" it just is locked up. The only way it "works" is by going through the gearbox which seems to free up the clutch plates or something but the clutch still drags like crazy so it's very very hard to push.
I can't find neutral either so I have the bike in gear and hold clutch in and kick and it will jolt me forward a little (pretty normal, happened on a few previous bikes) and then it will start. Also once the bike is running I can pull in the clutch and it will work fine. Once the bike is cut it doesn't work.

Only thing I've done differently is I'm using 10w40 oil, I have bought some 10w30 that I plan to put in could this possibly fix my issue? I'm thinking because of what I wrote earlier it isn't the oil. (Works when bike is on, doesn't work if bike isn't running even if it's hot, works if I switch through gears but drags like hell)
Also the clutch bolts where the springs are I didn't do up super tight, I am super scared of torqueing them because the torque wrench I have is big and I have previous experiences of snapping screws inside the basket.
 
Wet clutches are often "sticky" after the bike sits for several days. The first time you engage a gear, the bike jerks a bit as the plates come free. This is normal and it's the only time you should have this occur.

Always find neutral as you come to a stop. Normal clutch drag makes it difficult if you stop first. The gearbox should shift smoothly at all times. Oil choice will make some difference. Many guys have good luck with Shell Rotella diesel oil (0W40). Diesel oil is good since is does not have the "friction modifiers" that are in automotive oils.

It sounds like your clutch is not set up correctly. You should feel the lever moving the plates. Some drag is normal, but you have too much. This will round off the gear dogs and maybe that's how your problems all began.
 
Neil E. said:
Wet clutches are often "sticky" after the bike sits for several days. The first time you engage a gear, the bike jerks a bit as the plates come free. This is normal and it's the only time you should have this occur.

Always find neutral as you come to a stop. Normal clutch drag makes it difficult if you stop first. The gearbox should shift smoothly at all times. Oil choice will make some difference. Many guys have good luck with Shell Rotella diesel oil (0W40). Diesel oil is good since is does not have the "friction modifiers" that are in automotive oils.

It sounds like your clutch is not set up correctly. You should feel the lever moving the plates. Some drag is normal, but you have too much. This will round off the gear dogs and maybe that's how your problems all began.
Click to expand...

What part of my clutch do you think isn't setup properly?
Also before the rebuild I had no clutch issues at all and only the 2 cogs I have shown in the thread had any wear so hopefully that shows it wasn't a bad clutch that caused the previous damage.
 
Munch said:
Next up is my clutch.
It doesn't work when the bike is off, I know most 2 strokes have problems with clutch if it isn't started and warm but this clutch simply does not work if it's off, no "almost working" it just is locked up. The only way it "works" is by going through the gearbox which seems to free up the clutch plates or something but the clutch still drags like crazy so it's very very hard to push.
I can't find neutral either so I have the bike in gear and hold clutch in and kick and it will jolt me forward a little (pretty normal, happened on a few previous bikes) and then it will start. Also once the bike is running I can pull in the clutch and it will work fine. Once the bike is cut it doesn't work.
Click to expand...

The clutch should work fine if the motor is off. Remove your clutch cover and look at the pressure plate. It should move out if you work the clutch lever. I can push my bike in gear, engine off with the clutch lever pulled all the way back. It takes effort to push, but I can still overcome the clutch drag. Your description seems to indicate that your lever does nothing when the motor is off.

The only time I've heard of this is when an auto clutch has been installed. Models without a manual over-ride require motor rotation to disengage. I've never had an auto crutch so I can't advise you better.
 
Neil E. said:
The clutch should work fine if the motor is off. Remove your clutch cover and look at the pressure plate. It should move out if you work the clutch lever. I can push my bike in gear, engine off with the clutch lever pulled all the way back. It takes effort to push, but I can still overcome the clutch drag. Your description seems to indicate that your lever does nothing when the motor is off.

The only time I've heard of this is when an auto clutch has been installed. Models without a manual over-ride require motor rotation to disengage. I've never had an auto crutch so I can't advise you better.
Click to expand...

Could it be my clutch bolts are too loose? No autoclutch installed and rod is pushing the plate fine.

Could it be a bleeding issue?
 
If the outer plate pushed out when you pull the clutch, it isn't likely a bleeding issue. When the bike is running, the clutch worked?

I would have thought that a 30 min ride would be enough to get the clutch good and wet, but sticking clutch fibers was my first guess as well. Those fibers should be good and soaked in oil before stacking them up.

Another thing to check would be grooves in the clutch basket fingers. If the fingers are grooved, they can cause problems and make the fibers stick.
 
RockefellerGG said:
If the outer plate pushed out when you pull the clutch, it isn't likely a bleeding issue. When the bike is running, the clutch worked?

I would have thought that a 30 min ride would be enough to get the clutch good and wet, but sticking clutch fibers was my first guess as well. Those fibers should be good and soaked in oil before stacking them up.

Another thing to check would be grooves in the clutch basket fingers. If the fingers are grooved, they can cause problems and make the fibers stick.
Click to expand...

If I go to my bike right now, pull in the clutch it will be locked up as if I'm not pulling in the clutch. I hold in the clutch, give it a kick and it will start right up (little jolt but nothing crazy). I will give it a 30sec run and clutch is perfect. I can come to a dead stop pull in clutch and rev and it will be steady no movement. I cut bike and pull in clutch, no luck. I then go up/down some gears and it will "work" but has massive drag, very difficult to push but it's possible.

I left my bike with a friend to do some last bits and bobs and he said he bled my clutch with DOT 4 brake/clutch fluid, I've now done some googling and found it's meant to be mineral oil. Could this be the cause? (My cap doesn't tell me what to use, it's an aftermarket cap)

I am also using 10w40 oil, I have bought some 10w30, worth trying it?

Also clutch bolts going into clutch weren't done up very tight at all. Could this be causing it?
 
The bolts holding the clutch plate on only need 8-10Nm, not a lot by any means.

The AJP clutch master uses mineral oil. DOT4 will do bad things to all the seals. May require a rebuild now :( A flush or two and you might get lucky.

Did you check the fingers of the basket to see if they are notched? As others have said, its not uncommon for there to be some drag, and not uncommon for the discs to stick if the bike has sat for a while. I tend to grab 2nd gear and rock the bike a few times before going back to neutral to start it. After that it just works.
 
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