Gas Gas ec 2006 1st gear problems
- Thread starter Munch
- Start date
How would they be in wrong? I lined the drum itself up in the same posision as in RockeFellers post and also put the forks into the slots properly, also moved the drum itself to just make sure everything was operating OK.
Would the drum not being correct cause clutch problems?
I have, I even went as far as swapping them around to triple check.
How much impact does bleeding the clutch have? The lever doesn't feel half as nice as it used to but I doubt that could cause such a big issue could it?
No hitting at all. No missing spacers in the clutch 100%. I have quadruple checked the manual.
I just checked my phone and noticed I actually took a pic of the gearbox before I closed the cases.
Pic:
If anyone can spot anything please let me know.
I was thinking I really don't think it's gearbox guys. I can shift through the gears with the lever and also when the plates haven't got pressure on them I can spin the outer clutch basket and the sprocket and and it all moves together which tells me the gearbox is working since both sprocket & basket are each on a shaft which is basically what makes up the gearbox? If it was an issue it would be binding ect surely?
This is really screwing up my head. It's worse than waiting for parts.. I didn't know that was possible!
Pic:
If anyone can spot anything please let me know.
I was thinking I really don't think it's gearbox guys. I can shift through the gears with the lever and also when the plates haven't got pressure on them I can spin the outer clutch basket and the sprocket and and it all moves together which tells me the gearbox is working since both sprocket & basket are each on a shaft which is basically what makes up the gearbox? If it was an issue it would be binding ect surely?
This is really screwing up my head. It's worse than waiting for parts.. I didn't know that was possible!
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Before you put the clutch face on the discs, confirm that you have the push rod, needle/thrust washer or bearing and spacer in place. If the problem only exists when you throw the clutch face on and start adding pressure that's where I'd be looking closely.
If you engage neutral does everything still turn over freely?
You haven't left anything stuffed in the exhaust port or rhs gears that could also be binding the whole lot up?
If you engage neutral does everything still turn over freely?
You haven't left anything stuffed in the exhaust port or rhs gears that could also be binding the whole lot up?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Are they binding up and sticking together? Is the clutch basket notched and the discs are getting locked in and not releasing once some pressure is added?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
When the cutch lever is pulled in:
Inner basket should rotate with the steels freely.
Outer basket rotates with the fibres.
When the driveline is engaged and the pressure is acting on the plates and fibres the friction should cause them all to work together.
In neutral the whole lot is engaged, but the transmission doesn't carry the rotation through to the counter shaft.
barossi73
Gold Level Site Supporter
New fibres or original? If new are they correct thickness? Try with old plates?
Ie.if the clutch pack is too thick in total it could create an issue.
Also some have converted to cr250 clutch pack which i believe uses slightly diff thickness.
All of which is irrelevant if you are reusing old plates!
Ie.if the clutch pack is too thick in total it could create an issue.
Also some have converted to cr250 clutch pack which i believe uses slightly diff thickness.
All of which is irrelevant if you are reusing old plates!
It's 3am here now so I am heading to bed and will have another try at solving it tomorrow.
I have some questions though to help me, if anyone could take their time and answer them that would be super helpful.
1) If the bike is in gear and the clutch is off the bike completely (inc basket) and the shaft the basket slides onto turns, does this mean the gearbox is OK?
2) If the bike is in gear and I take the clutch plates OUT so that only the outer and inner clutch baskets are in and the kickstart free's up and turns basket AND sprocket, does this mean the gearbox is OK?
3) Any tips to check if gearbox is ok?
4) Possible mistakes in transmission that would cause this sort of issue
I have some questions though to help me, if anyone could take their time and answer them that would be super helpful.
1) If the bike is in gear and the clutch is off the bike completely (inc basket) and the shaft the basket slides onto turns, does this mean the gearbox is OK?
2) If the bike is in gear and I take the clutch plates OUT so that only the outer and inner clutch baskets are in and the kickstart free's up and turns basket AND sprocket, does this mean the gearbox is OK?
3) Any tips to check if gearbox is ok?
4) Possible mistakes in transmission that would cause this sort of issue
It sounds like you are uncertain about the assembly of the gearbox parts. In this case you should do a test fit of the engine cases without the crankshaft. This means the gearbox is complete including the shift mechanism. You should be able to turn the clutch basket and work the shift lever through all the gears. With each new engagement you should see the relative rotating speed of the countershaft change.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
With your engine at this point (all installed except the clutch)
You should be able to manually turn the input shaft and cycle the bike through each of the gears while witnessing the counter shaft (and/or sprocket) turning and changing speeds as Neil stated.
You could do this with the outer basket installed as well.
In neutral you should be able to turn the input shaft and hold the counter shaft still.
If all that checks out the gearbox is at least cycling through the gears and behaving as expected.
Then go through the parts fiche again and quadruple check you have every washer and bearing you need.
If you still have troubles, consider leaving the kick starter idler gear out just to rule out any issues with the starter gear sets causing the binding. You should be able to pull the spark plug and still easily turn the clutch around and see the same pattern you saw before.
It sounds to me like something isn't spaced or something is binding up when a load is on it.
You should be able to manually turn the input shaft and cycle the bike through each of the gears while witnessing the counter shaft (and/or sprocket) turning and changing speeds as Neil stated.
You could do this with the outer basket installed as well.
In neutral you should be able to turn the input shaft and hold the counter shaft still.
If all that checks out the gearbox is at least cycling through the gears and behaving as expected.
Then go through the parts fiche again and quadruple check you have every washer and bearing you need.
If you still have troubles, consider leaving the kick starter idler gear out just to rule out any issues with the starter gear sets causing the binding. You should be able to pull the spark plug and still easily turn the clutch around and see the same pattern you saw before.
It sounds to me like something isn't spaced or something is binding up when a load is on it.
