how to fix MOST clutch problems + cr250r clutch conversion.

Right...if you can get the clutch to begin to engage just above idle, with the smallest crack of the throttle, I think that is ideal. Maybe just an occasional tug or pull at idle, but at idle the bike shouldn't be trying to drive away. The Revloc guys said to adjust the gap so at idle there is an occasional slight pull to it, like an intermittent tugging, but not so strong that you can't hold it back with your feet on the ground (idling in first gear). My bike is adjusted at idle so I can feel an intermittent little bump/tugging in the seat. Then crack the throttle slightly and it starts to drive. I think this will minimize undue clutch slip.

does your clutch lever work normally?
 
Clutch lever works normally. I have an occasional slight tug while standing over the bike on startup, but not once it is warmed up and oil is circulating in there. So that sounds like I have it close. I might try a lighter spring in the auto-clutch to engage a little harder.

I also may pull it apart and see if I can get a 6th friction disc and steel in there... if the EXP is narrower, perhaps there's a chance. Can't hurt to try.
 
thumperflipper said:
Right...if you can get the clutch to begin to engage just above idle, with the smallest crack of the throttle, I think that is ideal. Maybe just an occasional tug or pull at idle, but at idle the bike shouldn't be trying to drive away. The Revloc guys said to adjust the gap so at idle there is an occasional slight pull to it, like an intermittent tugging, but not so strong that you can't hold it back with your feet on the ground (idling in first gear). My bike is adjusted at idle so I can feel an intermittent little bump/tugging in the seat. Then crack the throttle slightly and it starts to drive. I think this will minimize undue clutch slip.

does your clutch lever work normally?
Click to expand...

I'm running a rekluse core with a rekluse basket and a honda clutch pack it doesn't have any drag and it engages right off idle.
 
So a bit of an update on my drop-in EXP clutch for anyone thinking about going this route...

I've varied the gap throughout the Rekluse recommended range (.762mm ? 1.143mm) and I'm getting slipping at high RPMs.

I've been talking with the Rekluse technical guys and they said that they had the same problem. With only 5 frictions, they weren't able to overcome the torque of the engine. Maybe someone who has a Core Exp can verify, but I think he said the Core uses 7 frictions. This is a substantial friction difference.

I'm going to try the Honda frictions and see how that changes things and perhaps upgrade to a Core setup.
 
Hmmm...maybe some subtle differences in the revloc and EXP design. If you put more of the clutch pack in, just make sure it doesn't hit the inside of the clutch cover when you disengage the clutch. You can measure the height of the pressure plate from the lip of the case, and compare it to the clutch cover depth. The honda's frictions are a bit thicker.

Like you said, maybe less autoclutch springs.

Also the Barnett clutch springs may help too. My clutch springs were pretty sacked out, so I replaced my used clutch springs (not the autoclutch springs) with new factory ones from gofasters (back in the day :-) to assure the firmest engagement, and to keep the heaviest pressure on the pack while under load.

If you could somehow shim the clutch springs to increase the tension on the springs, that may help you decide if firmer springs might help.

I initially had some minor slipping at high RPM but the above changes fixed it for me.

So if none of this works, will Rekluse sell you the parts to complete a CORE kit? or do you have to buy the whole new kit?
 
The Honda frictions + the heavier engagement EXP springs helped a bit, but I still got a little slip at high revs. I guess I could have lived with it, but with only 5 frictions in there, it wasn't ideal. I was getting heat discoloration on the steels, it was only a matter of time, in my opinion.

The Honda EXP disc is the same as the one in the gasgas kit. I called up rekluse and they upgraded my kit to the Core setup. They don't sell an upgrade on their website, but they put one together for me after calling them.

The core setup is pretty nice. 7 frictions, thinner steels to work with Honda frictions, and the adjustable slave cylinder is awesome. It is so much easier to make adjustments to the installed gap.

Overall, I'm happy. Experimenting with the clutch has given me a much better understanding of what is going on in there.
 
Sorry bro it didn't work out. I feel bad that I led you down a singletrack with a waterfall dropoff at the end. Glad it's working well for you now. You are right the rekluse adjuster is the bomb, they really did their homework there.

Some people wanna understand how electricity works, others just wanna flip the switch and get light. Some days I just wanna ride, some days I wanna understand what the heck is going on inside my bike. The whole GasGas ownership thing (without a local dealer to run to any time something goes wrong) has been a very interesting and satisfying journey for me. Now we both understand autoclutches, maybe more than we need to. But as my friend told me, "experience is what you get when you didn't get what you want" :-)
 
thumperflipper said:
Sorry bro it didn't work out. I feel bad that I led you down a singletrack with a waterfall dropoff at the end. Glad it's working well for you now. You are right the rekluse adjuster is the bomb, they really did their homework there.

Some people wanna understand how electricity works, others just wanna flip the switch and get light. Some days I just wanna ride, some days I wanna understand what the heck is going on inside my bike. The whole GasGas ownership thing (without a local dealer to run to any time something goes wrong) has been a very interesting and satisfying journey for me. Now we both understand autoclutches, maybe more than we need to. But as my friend told me, "experience is what you get when you didn't get what you want" :-)
Click to expand...
I'm going to jump off that waterfall and gas it! :D

I went through similar issues when I installed a Revlov Dyna-Ring on my old '90 KDX200. My bike was only the second one to ever have one installed so I was one of the guinea pigs to help sort it out. After different thickness steels, various springs for the a/c, different clutch pack springs, and steel vs tungsten balls, I learned a whole lot about auto-clutches and how the work. I'm sure I can get the drop-in Rekluse to work in the GG. When I finally get around to doing it I'll post up my results.
 
Hi!
Thanks for all information, I just installed the EXP to mine MC 250, 2003 and IT seams to work well, i have a small drag when i have a gear in, It's really greate to run whit the autoclutch:)
I put 1,8 mm washer on the outside of the lifter, took some time to get the right hight but now it works well, no slip what i can tell
Cheers 😀
 
Are the guys that are putting in the rekluse exp buying the exp for a 94-07 cr 250? I'm thinking about trying it.


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BigAl said:
This is the thread I was looking for :D will update it when my Rekluse arrives
Click to expand...
So simple, CR250 Rekluse Core, then just used 2 extra GG washers on top of the normal 1 and all is sweet, will be giving it a good try out tomorrow :D
 
Last edited:
I can't wait to hear. Thanks again. What year cr250 clutch did you buy? (I assume you mean 2 stroke right?)


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How is your rekluse working? My friend just installed one in his bike and now he is faster than me in the woods!


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rvangeel said:
How is your rekluse working? My friend just installed one in his bike and now he is faster than me in the woods!


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Click to expand...

Going Great, Love it more each time I Ride it :D

Every 1 that has ridden it since it went in loves it as well
 
Does put a Suzuki thrust washer 2.0mm instead of stock 2.8 mm under clutch hub make sence (clutch hub to basket spacer) when converting to a CR250R cluth plates?
We have hydraulic clutch that push long clutch rod (which push pressure plate), so if overall plates pack size is bigger than standard (34.5mm CR250 vs 33.3mm GG300), then after additional 2-3 pushing clutch lever that long rod will be pushed forward that extra 1mm and stay there forever.

So i don't understand how changing thrust washer are changing something?
Besides that - basket, plates and pressure plate is one whole assembly, which moving inside (in engine) when changing that washer to thinner one - so really nothing happens to compensate new pack height of CR250 plates. Only 6 springs are more preloaded (~1mm), but i see you never feel that after conversion.
Does the way of my thoughts right?
 
Don't spose someone could point me in the direction of the thread that talked about clutch burnishing(to eliminate drag apparently) could they please? Searched but can't find. Cheers
 
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