How to lower brake temps?

9

95jersey

New member
I am a very aggressive braker and boil over my fluid often. I use the best Motul fluid available but after a couple hours I eventually lose mr rear brake. I have to pull over and wait for it to cool down to get it to work again.

In a race this will kill me. I have a SS plate between my piston and pad. Is there anything else I can do?
 
Radiator

There is an accessory radiator that goes on top of your rear master
It adds fluid volume and cooling fins I have to imagine that it would help it came on some special edition bikes. six days etc.
I have one can't tell you how well it works but its gotta help and it looks trick
 
The brake cooler can be bought from your GG dealer. The EBC reds in my opinion are garbage. They eat rotors and don't work for shit when they are wet. They OEM nissin pads are about as good as it gets. I am pretty heavy with the left foot too and have only boiled my brakes once. Is your brake pedal adjusted to high causing you to drag your brakes? Maybe consciously take note of where your foot is when riding and make sure it's not resting on the pedal.


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Thanks guys. I ride my rear brakes in tight corners while on the throttle. If their is a long enough tight section the brakes get real hot. Will look for the cooling rad. I use sintered pads.
 
A solid rear disk helps too.
It pulls the heat away from the pads.

I use Motorcraft HD brake fluid. Minimum dry boiling point of 500?F.
 
I have also seen guys epoxy computer heatsyncs (sp those things on computer chips with all the fins for cooling) on the brake to help radiate the heat
 
I always had problems with brakes on my 525 and got into the habit of bleeding them as part of my weekly service and this helped a lot.
When I got the Gasser the problem went away until I played with the adjustment on the brake pedal and I smoked the breaks in a 9 mile section. Re-adjusted bleed the breaks and no problems. I would look at your pedal adjustment these Nissan breaks work well. High temp break fluid of coarse and regular bleeding.
 
also make sure you're using DOT 4 brake fluid, it has a higher boiling point. I'm not a hard rider but boiled mine a couple times when I mistakenly used DOT 3 after servicing my brakes.
 
We have a guy in our race series that is known as the "brake slayer," and has been trying to solve his problem for years (on a KTM). A guy named Red (or Travannon is his real name), lead service tech at Ajax Kawasaki in Oklahoma City, apparently has come up with some solution that has been working. You might give him a call and see if he can share.
 
gasgasman said:
A solid rear disk helps too.
It pulls the heat away from the pads.

I use Motorcraft HD brake fluid. Minimum dry boiling point of 500?F.
Click to expand...

+1 on the solid rotor. The difference between using a wave rotor and the solid rotor is night and day when it comes to over heating the rear brake.
 
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