Keihin PWK Needle Chart

Trying to order a NE1G needle for my AS1 carb. Going to the Keihin order sheet and I have no idea what the corresponding code is for that needle....anyone have an idea?

For the AS1, I preferred the N1EG; however several of my customers preferred the Keihin DDK (or close) jet needles.

I always got my N1EG needles for the AS1 carbs through GasGas parts, but it is a 1998 Kawasaki KX250 series jet needle.
Part #16009-1764 (NEEDLE-JET,N1EG) parts diagram reference #16009F
1998 was the last year for which I saw the needle listed.

I checked two parts suppliers, Bike Bandit and Rocky Mountain ATV, but neither of them show the jet needle as being available.
A Kawasaki dealer may be able to help you.

Good luck and good Riding to you!
Jim


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Ideling

Ok so I got the same issue. Bought a 2005 G EC300. Can't make it idle for the life of me. Finally bit the bullet and opened up the carb. I'm running an N1EF needle on the last notch. A 35 main and a 170 idle at around 500 ft, above sea level. From What I've read here that seems very lean. I like it's power delivery everywhere except idle, but I've never ridden it tuned perfectly evidently. It may be even better tuned right. Anyone got a good base line to go with? Getting this carb out, or doing anything with this thing is an ordeal. Not impressed with the design. First European bike I've ever had. Jap bikes are easy to work on.
 
Ok so I got the same issue. Bought a 2005 G EC300. Can't make it idle for the life of me. Finally bit the bullet and opened up the carb. I'm running an N1EF needle on the last notch. A 35 main and a 170 idle at around 500 ft, above sea level. From What I've read here that seems very lean. I like it's power delivery everywhere except idle, but I've never ridden it tuned perfectly evidently. It may be even better tuned right. Anyone got a good base line to go with? Getting this carb out, or doing anything with this thing is an ordeal. Not impressed with the design. First European bike I've ever had. Jap bikes are easy to work on.

The AS1 (Air Striker 1) carburetor, which came on the earlier model GasGas bikes need to be jetted richer than the AS2 (Air Striker 2) carburetors that came on the later model GasGas off-road bikes. The AS1 on your bike has a screw on top above the slide. The AS2 has screws holding down the top. Don't run the super lean main jets with your cab. To get your bike to idle, you need a richer pilot jet and a different jet needle from the GasGas stock N1E series of jet needles.

Now, to re-jet your carburetor's slide and main jet, you don't have to remove the carb from the bike. Take off your seat, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, and remove the rear retaining strap for the tank.
Lift up the rear of the tank and keep it up with the handle of a screwdriver or a block (or something 1 1/2" thick).
Loosen the clamp on the connection between the rubber adapter and the reed valve/intake manifold; and rotate the carburetor to point it's top to the left side of the bike.
You can now take off the top of the carburetor and remove the slide and jet needle for adjustment, etc.
While the top is off the carb, rotate it the other way, and you will be able to access the main jet by removing the plug in the bottom of the float bowl.
To access and change the pilot jet, you will need to remove the float bowl.

To get your bike to idle, using the AS1 carb, I would suggest either a 42 or 45 pilot jet, 178 main jet, and a jet needle such as a NECW, or NEDJ. (your choice will be determined by how you want the power delivered as the rpms build.) There are a lot of good jet needles that will work. You just have to find the one which works best for your use by experimentation.
Start off with the Jesus clip in the second groove from the top of the jet needle. Work from thereto fine tune it. I call it the Jesus clip, because if it's tendency to fly across the room, or down into the leaves when working trailside; prompting me to yell,"Jesus!" :)

One thing to watch for when tilting the carb to work on it; with the float bowl removed while the carb is on its side, the pivot pin for the floats will sometimes fall out.

Good Riding and Wrenching to you!
Jim

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My needle shows to be a N1EF. I've yet to find that needle marking on any Keihin site. Stock needle shows to be 48-DDJ.
Stock jets should have been 55/170
Is the N1EF some after market needle? i don't find the needles NECW, or NEDJ you recommended either. I'm missing something somewhere. I'm looking at OEM Keihin parts.
 
My needle shows to be a N1EF. I've yet to find that needle marking on any Keihin site. Stock needle shows to be 48-DDJ.
Stock jets should have been 55/170
Is the N1EF some after market needle? i don't find the needles NECW, or NEDJ you recommended either. I'm missing something somewhere. I'm looking at OEM Keihin parts.

The 170 main jet will not be large enough, even in hot weather for your bike. Your AS1 carburetor demands more fuel at open throttle high rpm running. People running the 170 main jet are using the AS2 carburetors, and not running WFO for 10 seconds or longer. I never used anything smaller than a 175 main jet in a GasGas bike with an AS1 carburetor for anything other than jetting tests.

A 50 or 55 pilot jet will have most off-road riders fouling plugs quickly and repeatedly, as their riding is often still partially using the idle circuit.
Good acceleration, yes. Clean bottom end running, no. Try a 42 pilot jet first, and if you still want to go larger, try a 45. (I got a better drag race result using a 45, but got longer plug life and less exhaust spooge witha 42. Below a 42, I couldn't get the bikes with the AS1 carb to idle at all without raising the slide and needle out of the strictly idle circuit of the carb with the throttle stop screw.

The N1ED, N1EF, N1EG jet needles are not from Keihin. They are from Kawasaki for a 1998 KX250. You can see them in the OEM parts lists on major parts houses such as rockymountainatv.com (and others) as "optional" jet needles. They are for racing MX, and not meant to idle or be especially smooth in their transition from low rpm to mid-range.

Additionally, the other jet needles mentioned in the forum (and in my post above) can be found the same way; by looking in the OEM Parts diagrams in online retailers' web sites for optional jet needles for YZ250 and RM250 2-stroke bikes. That's where I found the NEDJ and NECW jet needles.
You'll have to look at specific years of the YZ250 and RM250 to find all the selections of jet needles for the Air Striker Keihin carbs that we are talking about. (unless someone here can point you to a specific model for a specific jet needle). These jet needles are not available from Keihin as OEM Keihin needles. Those jet needles are the DDK, DDL, and such that you will see in the Sudco catalog.

Good luck and good riding!
Jim


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The std N1FE needs modification with some beefy cutters. Divide it into 2 or 3 equal parts by your preference.

Right. Now you are ready to start, unhindered by having it to hand as a distraction. Read excellent advice above.
 
While you have the slide out, turn it upside down and see what number is on it. The earlier 250 & 300s came with a #7 (7mm cutaway on the bottom). The cutaway of the slide regulates the carburetor's air flow at idle.
 
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