Left hand rear brake???

This is exactly what I was thinking of doing sled. I've been watching fleabay for the right deal on just a regular front brake MC. I figure I'll turn it around backwards and cut a lever off, drill and tap some holes in it and bolt a thumb appropriate paddle to it.
 
I have the Rekluse LHRB kit but haven't got it to work effectively yet. Let me be more specific I am trying to get the dual system to work. I don't know what the problem is yet. I have bled it to death the way Rekluse suggest and several other ways. I suspect that there is too much give in the system somewhere. Not sure where yet or if it can be cured. The footbrake works perfectly as normal but the hand is spongy and not strong enough. I have previously tried just a hand brake and this worked better than dual but didn't have the right gearing - it needed a really hard squeeze to lock the rear wheel. I suspect a dual is suffering from a combination of insufficient gearing and some give in the system.
 
I originally tried the Rekluse dual setup, but I too couldn't rid it of the spongy feeling; squeezing the lever also pumped up the foot pedal and so reduced the effective rear braking.

I ending up removing the pedal from the system altogetehr, and I couldn't be happier with the result. I'm able to brake slide turn now (as I was never very good at using the pedal), and down-hill sliding contol is now an exercise in precision. Down-hill front-end washouts are also now a distant memory. :)

In my configuration I use a DOT-4 compatible clutch lever from a 2004 (I thing) GG; later year GG clutches use mineral oils, and the seals are not compatible with DOT fluid. Some people won't ride their Rekluse mounts without a clutch override for fear of a jammed full throttle. A valid concern. But I've been fortunate to not have need for such an override (at least so far). I've safety wired my throttle cable at the grip and along the cable routing to minimize the chance of a pulled-cable.
 
I've always wondered why bikes didn't have a TPS (throttle position sensor) like they do on snowmobiles. My sled carburetor has a little magnetic switch on it and a little magnet that rides with the slide and there is a switch on the thumb throttle. If the carb slide is up but the thumb throttle is closed (you've let go of the throttle) then it kills spark.

Seems like a pretty simple change for a manufacturer to make and it would eliminate the possibility of stuck throttles ruining your day.
 
Roost,

I have a Bermbo front brake unit hanging in my shop...came off the 2hundo when I swapped out the forks....

Drop me a pm.
 
My neighbor is an avid street rider, and ironically was badly injured in a car accident. He now has very limited strength in his right hand. He had a guy do a custom left hand thumb brake setup on his BMW that runs the front brakes. It works great for him.
 
I've always wondered why bikes didn't have a TPS (throttle position sensor) like they do on snowmobiles. My sled carburetor has a little magnetic switch on it and a little magnet that rides with the slide and there is a switch on the thumb throttle. If the carb slide is up but the thumb throttle is closed (you've let go of the throttle) then it kills spark.

Seems like a pretty simple change for a manufacturer to make and it would eliminate the possibility of stuck throttles ruining your day.

That seems like a good idea. I think most 2T riders have experienced the stuck throttle. I had it happen with a Rekluse on a 2T and had to bail out. Luckily it was at low speed in the woods, I missed the trees and when the bike hit the ground it freed the throttle up and it closed so no damage to either of us. Made me nervous for quite a while as I could find no reason for it.
 
I've had the same concern with going to LHRB and loosing my clutch override on my rekluse. I've talked to some people that say 'well you should never have a stuck throttle if the carb is maintained and you safety wire the cable'. Yeah that's true but I had a bike rev out on me due to a failed ignition side crank seal sucking air too.

I'm thinking with the LHRB, if you did have an "rpm malfunction" couldn't you just apply the rear brake to bring the revs down and stall out the engine?
 
I'm thinking with the LHRB, if you did have an "rpm malfunction" couldn't you just apply the rear brake to bring the revs down and stall out the engine?

You can't hold them on the rear brake anyway. Had it happen another time on a 300, applying the back brake had virtually no effect. I think multiple kill switches might be the way to go.

By the way can you get clutch override on GasGas with Rekluse. I took my clutch off because it seemed to do nothing - the engine wasn't running though.
 
I have no direct experience with the following :rolleyes: but I've heard that on a standard Rekluse the manual clutch has little effect when the engine/clutch are fully engaged (say, under the conditions of a run-away throttle).

So it may be the case that a manual clutch will have minimal effect on the Rekluse while under full power.

Dale
 
I have no direct experience with the following :rolleyes: but I've heard that on a standard Rekluse the manual clutch has little effect when the engine/clutch are fully engaged (say, under the conditions of a run-away throttle).

So it may be the case that a manual clutch will have minimal effect on the Rekluse while under full power.

Dale

Yup, correct. Above about 1/2-3/4 throttle you can't pull the lever at all. If the throttle is stuck WFO you're SOL with the standard Z-Start Rekluse.

The new Rekluse Core EXP clutch with full over ride ability and totally stock clutch feel should be available in a few months for the GG. I would feel allot more comfortable having this one but it's $$$.

Sticking throttles are a strange problem. Even with the cable saftey wired top and bottom and a good cable and routing people seem to have this happen every so often. It especially seems to happen in whoops where the bike is really bouncing in a certain fashion. Doesn't seem to matter how you have the carb vent lines routed either. Almost seems like it's a float related issue. Dragging my brakes has saved me a few times and yes most of the time in whoop sections. Discussed on KTM Talk quite a bit.

Also on KTM Talk many guys with the LHRB have had problems getting a firm lever with the dual setup. No real good answer that I have seen yet.
 
Also on KTM Talk many guys with the LHRB have had problems getting a firm lever with the dual setup. No real good answer that I have seen yet.

I think it's the sleeve that fits in the foot m/c. It doesn't fit exactly and leaves a gap between it and the foot m/c walls. I have a theory that the pressure from the hand forces the o-ring underneath the sleeve to expand a little. It's just a guess. When I get a chance I'm going to try filling it with fluid before placing the sleeve in and see if it helps.
 
If your o-ring theory is right, there must be a replacement. I have the LHRB, and agree, the feel isn't perfect, but it's usable. Mine feels as good as the local dealer, who is the country's #1 Rekluse dealer, so I'd say his is set up correctly. If I could wean myself off the foot pedal, I'd go for the line directly to the brake to get the right feel.
 
If your o-ring theory is right, there must be a replacement. I have the LHRB, and agree, the feel isn't perfect, but it's usable. Mine feels as good as the local dealer, who is the country's #1 Rekluse dealer, so I'd say his is set up correctly. If I could wean myself off the foot pedal, I'd go for the line directly to the brake to get the right feel.

I have tried the hand only in the past and it's hard to get used to it. I found after a couple of hours riding when everything was calm and going well it was great. But, as soon as something happened unexpectedly I'd try to use the foot brake or clutch! I ride bicycles often enough but put me on 2 wheels with an engine and 30 years of conventional controls becomes hard to override. That said it does provide a great deal more control and sensitivity when you are using it properly.
 
Gave up on the dual rear brake system and fitted LHRB only. Now I have a nice solid lever feel and some decent power to lock the rear wheel.

Pulling the Rekluse extra bits out of the foot m/c I notice the o-ring was badly deformed. Wonder if this was the problem. It came out a strange shape, not the nice circle that went in. However as others have had the same experience as me there is an issue there. Maybe I should try it again but I think it will be a while before I can be bothered.
 
I think I have a fresh idea here. Why not ditch the o-ring and use a rubber or poly flat gasket cut to the correct outside diameter? This could solve the deforming o-ring situation.
 
I've seen many discussions on this topic and many of them involve using a thumb brake and retaining the stock clutch lever for clutch actuation. I have a Rekluse z-start and for me it would make more sense to get the rekluse LHRB kit, eliminating the foot brake, and use a thumb brake lever to override the clutch. Has anyone done it this way or know any reason why it wouldn't work?

BINGO! we have a winner. That is my answer

2009 EC-300 Rekluse exp 2.0
My 2007 WR450 has Rekluse pro and LHRB dual kit , so thats what I'm used to.
 
I might be a little late but....

I put a LHRB on my wife's 200 while keeping the clutch. Purchased the LHRB kit from Rekluse and spent $20 to mount it under the clutch

Both levers are directly over/under each other, clean and cheap

Can email pics
 
Ditto: Pix, please!

I have the Core EXP, and a LHRB from Recluse. I would very much like to have a clutch over-ride that I can use in the rare circumstances that I need it.
 
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