Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks
- Thread starter SolidPerformance
- Start date
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
I am trying to build a fork that is soft/plush enough for my use, meaning that I use the whole travel in the typical terrain (rocks, roots, slow speed) that I ride. I would like the fork to do this when I have it in the middle of the adjusting range (10-15 clicks compression). When achieving this, I will be able to actually use the adjusting range of the compression clickers and pfp. When I started out, I used the pfp at minimum preload, as well as the compression clickers all backed out. The forks were still too stiff for my use.
I am quite pleased with my latest setup. I have polished the springs and the lower fork legs, rebuilt with SKF seals and Intec bushings, softened the compression stack and installed 1.0kg/mm PFP springs. I presume my compression stack would be too soft for most people, but I am a old and slow racer
If I get faster, I can just put back a compression shim or two.I ran 15 clicks compression and PFP all the way out in this weekend's race. When finished, I verified that I had used all the fork travel, without noticing any hard bottoming during the race. When riding, I felt the forks were plusher than before, and responded well to all the rokcs and roots (at my pace). In other words, I am close to where I planned to be.
Tomorrow I'm off to a MX club race, the setup there will be PFP 3-4 turns in, 5 clicks compression (or there about).
SS109
Active member
Please let us know how it does.
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
On the MX track it is too soft, even for me. I bottoms hard when landing from jumps, particularily in a step-up where I don't jump to the top, meaning that I always land uphill. I tried 3 clicks from fully closed on the compression, and 4.5 turns PFP. Next time I will try more PFP. And perhaps add a little oil, as I have only 250ml in each leg now.
But the lack of MX performance is OK, as my main priority is to have a good enduro setup. I don't feel at home on the MX track, jumping big jumps has never been my cup of tea.
However, I ride MX from time to time. We have a club championship where MX and enduro points are collected to make up the chapionship standings. So I have to participate in all races to collect some points
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I used to jump every chance I got, and loved to fly (in my younger days, on a bike). I've gotten older (in spite of my activities for the last 65 years).
I no longer have any desire for "Big Air" on my bike.
I say, "Big Air? Kid, If you want Big Air, pull my finger."
Good Luck and Good Riding to You!
Jim
.
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
I think I'll stick to the softest ICS springs for now. Yesterday I did some laps on the MX track again, and with 7.5 turns in at the PFP and 2 clicks out on the compression it is acceptable at my pace for now. To me, the woods performance is the first priority.
SS109
Active member
Just broke down my right fork and oil was 270cc for outer and 210cc inner. It was very dirty looking but I didn't see any contaminates in the oil.
I have a main fork spring preload question. My forks were set a zero preload (top clip). Should I leave it or should I set it to the factory 5mm of preload? I want my forks plush but I know the forks were designed to have that 5mm preload on the spring. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Also, just an FYI for anyone looking for main fork springs, I bought a set of genuine KYB springs that fit the '07-'10 KX450's. They are listed as 470mm but appear to be 475mm and identical to the ones I pulled out. Got a steal at only $60 brand new off Ebay.
I have a main fork spring preload question. My forks were set a zero preload (top clip). Should I leave it or should I set it to the factory 5mm of preload? I want my forks plush but I know the forks were designed to have that 5mm preload on the spring. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Also, just an FYI for anyone looking for main fork springs, I bought a set of genuine KYB springs that fit the '07-'10 KX450's. They are listed as 470mm but appear to be 475mm and identical to the ones I pulled out. Got a steal at only $60 brand new off Ebay.
SS109
Active member
Another important question, do I need to use Loctite (and what type) on the junction of the PFP and the compression stack(?) rod? In this pic from Vindicator, where these two parts thread together underneath the PFP spring? Also, am I correct in that this is where you adjust for the proper amount of compression clicks or is that a different spot?
The stack in the cartridge. Does it look ok?
(Left to right, top to bottom)
Bolt
Spring
31.85 x .3
Base
11 x .3
11 x .3
18 x .1
20 x .1
24 x .1
13.8 x .1
31.8 x .15
31.8 x .15
28 x .1
2.5 spacer
Lastly, in between those two parts mine has a circlip on each one. No clue why they're there as I haven't seen them in any other pics of this junction.
The stack in the cartridge. Does it look ok?
(Left to right, top to bottom)
Bolt
Spring
31.85 x .3
Base
11 x .3
11 x .3
18 x .1
20 x .1
24 x .1
13.8 x .1
31.8 x .15
31.8 x .15
28 x .1
2.5 spacer
Lastly, in between those two parts mine has a circlip on each one. No clue why they're there as I haven't seen them in any other pics of this junction.
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Last edited:
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Been a while since I've worked on a pair of these. From memory I think that's where you adjust for the number of clicks. Anything that impacts on the overall length (and thus amount that the clicker rod can travel inside the assembly) relates to how many clicks there.
I never used any Loctite in there. Just snugged them together gently.
I never used any Loctite in there. Just snugged them together gently.
SS109
Active member
That juncture, when all the way screwed in, gives me 31 clicks. If I back it out on the threads I can get to the specified 26 clicks it's supposed to have. However, then there is nothing keeping the two pieces from going out of adjustment. Look at the gap to get the correct number of clicks. That little circlip (indicated by the arrow) that I mentioned appears to be perfectly placed to align it for 26 clicks and looks to have had Green Loctite on it. Odd thing is that the two can be completely tightened down with the circlip in place as that was how it was when I disassembled it.
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SS109
Active member
With all the things I've learned about these forks, I decided to film my recent servicing of them. If I didn't do something right, or you know a alternative/better way on something, please let me know here or post it on the comment section of the vid. Thanks to all that have shared what they have learned on these forks!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbKjhvFl7AQ&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbKjhvFl7AQ&feature=youtu.be
Thank you (and all others) for the video and tips, it really made it so much simpler!
I did a full service on the forks, finished just yesterday, and while in there, I removed all the 12mm bleed shims from everywhere (comp, reb, mid) and also increased preload one notch. Went to ride today and, WOW, huge difference! It feels so much smoother now, flows over everything and does not hit on hands (harshness is almost gone). PFP 1 turn in, comp and reb 20 clicks out (standard), might need small tweaking but not sure at the moment.
