Poor gas mileage 2013 christini 300 with gasgas ec300

lneil06

New member
I bought a 2013 Christini 300 all wheel drive that has a gasgas ec300 motor in it. Main jet is 155, idle is 42 and leak jet.

The bike runs really well, smoky on first startup but that's about it, a bit of oil out of the exhaust after riding for an hour or so.

I mostly ride at 1/4 throttle in the power switch on the lower setting. Only hit 1/2 throttle occasionally. Never hitting full throttle.

Power is linear.

Gas mileage 9 to 10 mpg ! Not good and don't see gas on the ground when I stop. Yes i did say 9 to 10 mpg.

HELP! Going to changet min jet tp 170 due to altitude, riding at zero to 2000 feet.

Need some help!

Thanks
Lenny
 
Your pilot jet looks a little rich, the main VERY lean, and who knows what needle .... your fuel economy will be largely determined by the needle and pilot, along with float height, if you're riding down in the throttle like you say.
 
The more info you can supply,the better the feedback will be.find out what needle,in which clip,and what slide is in there and someone will steer you to a decent setup.the slide# is stamped into it,and will be visible when you remove top of carb to access needle.id say you are lucky you operate in the lower throttle openings with that main!
Also what fuel?mix ratio,octane,ethanol content(where applicable)
 
The slide has a #7 stamped on it -

I'll pull the needled out tonight and find out what slot the clip is in.

93 Octane Gas - 50% to 1 - was at 44 to 1 gas/oil mixture - changed to 50% to 1 after finding the owners manual.

I ride in power mapping 2 most of the time - but love how clean the bike runs in power mapping 1.

Again - I'm never at full throttle - will order a J&D Jet kit - is that the best / most cost effective way to go ?

Thanks

Lenny
 
JD kit will get you close enough with minimal effort - it just costs about 2 or 3 times more than if you bought the parts yourself. You're just paying for their research and convenience. If you want perfection, that is a never ending game.

Keep in mind the needle will have 4 characters stamped at the top, this is good info to have. These are the weakest point in how the Gassers are shipped. No clue what Christini is sending out the door. Everyone seems to be having good luck with the N3xx needles. If you go with JD you will likely be happy.

I wouldn't use the owners manual to derive ratios. Most oil manufacturers have their own recommendations on the bottle so the brand you are using is more important than what Christini/GasGas suggest, in my opinion.
 
The slide has a #7 stamped on it -

I'll pull the needled out tonight and find out what slot the clip is in.

93 Octane Gas - 50% to 1 - was at 44 to 1 gas/oil mixture - changed to 50% to 1 after finding the owners manual.

I ride in power mapping 2 most of the time - but love how clean the bike runs in power mapping 1.

Again - I'm never at full throttle - will order a J&D Jet kit - is that the best / most cost effective way to go ?

Thanks

Lenny

No and no.

Go read some of the stickies.

Important points.
Mechanical condition of the engine, reeds, airfilter, main seals etc.
Carb setup. Install and fitment on bike. Clearance from frame. Slide not raised excessively, some slack in the throttle cable. Float height!!! and ensuring that the needle valve and seat aren't gummed up allowing it to not seal and overflow. Should be able to tip the bike 45 degrees each side without overflow. See thread for suggested heights and methods.
Jetting! Get a baseline, get a handful of jets, and a handful of needles and start again with a methodical approach.

Excess head clearance can also cause poor economy and efficiency. Many have gone around in circles for a long time before having the head cut and everything fall into place. Wouldn't be a bad idea to measure your squish.
 
Personally ive not tried the jd needles but from what i can gather results are mixed for the gg engine.a lot of guys are getting good results with suzuki ned?/nec? or yamaha n3c? needles.the ? is because the last letter in code is diameter and varies for different capacities/carbs/setups.find the stamped code on your needle and post.
Also worth looking thru the jetting database on this forum for equivalent setups.be wary of different fuels/altitudes/climatic differences in here though.fwiw im running nech clip3(half clip variation of nedh)but mines a 13 200(1 wheel drive!).also there are 2 pwk carbs,as1 has a screw top,as2 has two philips screws holding cap.the as2 jets leaner so its a good idea to post that too.
Once you post your full setup,some of the jetting gurus will most likely chime in
 
I just picked up some jets - 178 Main and a 38 and 40 pilot jet.

The needles is a N1EF with the e-clip in the middle slot.

Will make sure the float is working - I haven't seen any leaking out of the carb unless I tip the bike almost all the way over.

The carb has 2 screws on the top.
 
I just picked up some jets - 178 Main and a 38 and 40 pilot jet.

The needles is a N1EF with the e-clip in the middle slot.

Will make sure the float is working - I haven't seen any leaking out of the carb unless I tip the bike almost all the way over.

The carb has 2 screws on the top.

This is the source of your problem.

AS2 Carb, running a rich pilot and a very rich needle, in a rather rich clip position.. and for some reason an obsurdly lean main (someones attempt to compensate?).

I find it interesting that you say it runs well though. Mine was a blubbering mess that wouldn't take throttle well and load up in no time in that state.

What are you temps and elevation? Something around a W diameter, 40 pilot, clip pos 2-3 depending on particular needle, and 172-178 main will have that bike using less fuel and riding much stronger.

Still consider head squish as a variable though. My 2010 had 2.6mm stock and I couldn't get it dialled for the life of me. Would change every time the wind direction did.
 
I just picked up some jets - 178 Main and a 38 and 40 pilot jet.

The needles is a N1EF with the e-clip in the middle slot.

Will make sure the float is working - I haven't seen any leaking out of the carb unless I tip the bike almost all the way over.

The carb has 2 screws on the top.

I think you're well on your way to getting it sorted. I'm sure the float is working as intended, but you should set the height. 6.5mm I believe, for the AS2.
 
It's just a little blubber at the bottom but still runs really well. What do you suggest for a needle?

We are at 230 feet temps between 40 and 60 now. I live in Massachusetts USA
 

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N1EF is stock. I think 40P and 176M is stock, so you can try that.

It looks like you are rich on the bottom and lean up top based on that needle. I bet that AWD system sucks power, so I don't think you want an NEXX needle, as they are slightly leaner and have less hit on bottom.

Not sure how AWD effects mileage but it can't be good. Keep in mind a stock Gas Gas 300 only gets 45 miles to a full tank (give or take a few), so that is around 18mpg. Is the AWD sucking down another 10MPG??? We'll it could...but a leaner pilot should help, but I doubt you are going to see a dramatic improvement. No way a needle or pilot change is going to improve your MPG by 10.
 
I leave the AWD off most of the time unless I'm going up or through some crazy stuff. Then I'll turn it on.

The AWD only really kicks on when the rear wheel spins - which isn't that often. I have to say the bike is a blast in wet muddy, snowy, steep hills, rock gardens, water crossing, and sandy conditions.

I do have a oversized tank on the bike, and ride Turkey Runs - where gas stops are usually between 45 and 50 miles. I read one person getting 60 miles prior to cutting over to reserve - is that even possible ?

Lenny
 
Jakobi - what do you suggest for a needle ? Or should I just change clip location as well ? I'm at the middle clips location - #3.

We do a lot of single track where i'm at - so having linear power is important.

I'll try next for jets - 40 Pilot - 178 main - is this a good starting point? I really need to get to 50 miles on a tank - or I'll have to fall back to my wr450 for Turkey Runs.

I'll try to calculate head squish - is there a good procedure for this somewhere?

Thanks

Lenny
 
For normal trail riding my GasGas 300s have averaged 23mpg before getting the head squish redone and 2-3 more mile per gallon after. I now have a 250 gasser with a NEDW (suzuki) needle and absolutely love it. Don't believe what you read about this needle being weak down low - it is as strong as any other needle and better than most. The power is not explosive, it does come on in a slow, very controllable way but it is very strong and clean at lower revs. People who ride in the mid range and above dislike the NExx needles but one may be just the ticket for the way you ride.
 
What he said.

Have rb designs machine your head for squish and proper compressiom. Throw that n1ef needle in the garbage and get Yamaha or Suzuki needle and corresponding jets. Eg you should have richer pilot jet if it's set up rught.

Be sure to go up on pilot and be sure reset your idle screw. The idle screw should not be turned in to the point of being coil bound. Turn it out and reset it when going away from

I would also consider having rb designs mod yoir carb for you.

Jeff
 
He has a p42 in there which should suit ned?
On my 200 the p42 is slightly better than p40,and the sweet spot is nech#3 (nedh#2.5).the 300 should be pretty close,maybe a touch leaner.id start at p40/42,ned?3,then go to ned?2,this will give you a feel for the needle and nec? may not be necessary
If you go the n3c? Yam i believe its a thicker needle so jets get bumped up to suit. (More changes at once,may be more frustrating to dial in,although youre already changing needle and main)
 
For less than the price of the JD kit you'll be able to buy about 7 x various Suzuki and ktm/Yamaha needles as others have suggested.

Also, not knowing US fuels or colder climates I can't give you specifics which I know will work. I am in a tropical climate; hot and humid all year around. Add to that unknown squish clearance and efficiency, and added load from the AWD system and its a lot of variables to account for. A W/H diameter needle is probably not a bad start but you'll need to fine tune from there.

My stock 300 on stock engine got 60km to reserve (when first owning a 2T and not really being much more than a competent rider). After head mods and better jetting, and going to a 250cc engine giving it a lot more throttle a lot more often, and shorter gearing I can usually get 100km to reserve. It's a pretty significant difference.
 
Tonight I checked the float height, spot on at 6.5mm, so I don't think it's that, but was hoping. I also checked the reeds, they are in exceptionl shape.

I'll try the 178 main and 40 pilot tomorrow.
 
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