Poor gas mileage 2013 christini 300 with gasgas ec300

lneil06 said:
Tonight I checked the float height, spot on at 6.5mm, so I don't think it's that, but was hoping. I also checked the reeds, they are in exceptionl shape.

I'll try the 178 main and 40 pilot tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I usually lower the float out to 7-7.5mm to compensate for the forward lean of the carb.. Haven't experienced any issues running the bowl dry at these levels, and its also a common thing to do with the other brands running these carbs.

Your poor economy is coming from the needle. As an interim which should offer some benefit, you could lift the needle clip up to position 2, however the real gains will come with a different taper profile.
 
+1 what jakobi said.youve stated that you ride mainly 0-1/4 throttle.that is the problem area on your current needle,the very lean main may be helping clean it up a little but based on your mileage-not much!
The ned? should help and will also give a much smoother,progressive,linear delivery that will take part throttle openings better.
Since i fitted this needle i have never felt the need to bother with map switch as the delivery is so smooth anyway
Fwiw my stock needle was noz?,identical taper but a half clip leaner than n1e? and it was still too rich at bottom,even in clip2.for $15 its worth trying.
My conditions,10-30degC,0-1000m,70-80%humidity
Running rich as you are and spending a lot of time at low throttle im surprised you havnt fouled a plug or two,although iridium plugs will mask this symptom by generally refusing to foul(i also find iridiums harder to read and it could be my imagination but also felt engine didnt run quite as strong)
Start with ned?as clip4,3 and prob 2 should be safe options.
Nec? Is half clip leaner so clip3=ned?2.5,so theres less useful positions,if you like the ned then consider nec for finetuning l8r
Start with the exact needle diameter as the stock needle you have,in clip3,or 4 if youre edgy!(dont be put off if clip4 is utter crap)
Change that main,even if you dont get on the pipe urself.id hate for you to swapbikes with a m8 and have him grenade it for you!
 
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2013 Christini 300 update

It's FINALLY IDLING !!

OK - I just installed all new reed cage caskets, new carburetor boot, new gasket on the Alternator side.

JD jet kit installed - red needle slot 4 - 175Main - and 38 pilot and it's finally idling and not loading up. With the 40 Pilot it was idling - loading up, idle would drop, and if you turned the throttle bike would blow smoke - enough for neighbors to think I was fogging for Mosquitoes !!

At around 1/2 throttle and beyond its spongy - so thinking of trying a 172 main. The carburetor rebuild kit I bought had a 165 Main - and the when I got the bike it had a 165 Main in it. I don't want to put it in and take a risk of locking it up.

When on the trails I barely hit 1/2 throttle.

When I change the power mapping - I have to say it sure does put a smile on my face - 1/4 throttle and the front end comes right up.

Bendix issue - I bought the 5009 and only took some off the top cover to clear - it spins clear without any binding. Some people where saying they needed to modify the shaft of the 5009 - I didn't need too any off the shaft like others mentioned - it's still intermittent.

One good thing the bike kick starts easy.
 
lneil06 said:
JD jet kit installed - red needle slot 4 - 175Main - and 38 pilot and it's finally idling and not loading up.

At around 1/2 throttle and beyond its spongy - so thinking of trying a 172 main. The carburetor rebuild kit I bought had a 165 Main - and the when I got the bike it had a 165 Main in it. I don't want to put it in and take a risk of locking it up.

When on the trails I barely hit 1/2 throttle.
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I would suggest you lower the needle/raise the clip before swapping out the main if you are concerned about seizing due to lean mixture. As I understand it, the main is only really involved once the needle gets out of the way, or at about 3/4 throttle. Plus, it's much easier to change the needle (in my opinion, and on a gasser not a Christini) than the main jet.
 
Interesting Ride this weekend

Idle was still an issue - had to go out 3/4 turn on the air screw - even with the 38 pilot.

One problem - I'm using the JD jet kit red needle - clip at the #4 spot. At 1/4 throttle - even on the mild mapping - the power hits hard making it a bit of a hair raiser in the rocks and roots of New England.

The top end is still cutting out running the 172 - worse with the 175.

I repacked the muffler in January - so it has to be OK - but will also repack the pipe.

I have a NEDW needle I may go back too.

Lenny
 
I use 42PJ, air screw 2.5 out, JD red #4, 6.5 slide and 175 main on a GG250. I run this jetting year-round, temperatures from 0*C through to 25*C. It's a bit sleepy in warm weather and very crisp when it's cold. I rarely ever use more than half throttle and don't run a thermostat.

What slide is in your carb? I tried a #8 and found it too agressive.
 
I'll add that I'm getting better than 10km per liter. Does the Christini have any sort of disconnect on the front wheel drive? Your added hardware could be causing higher gas usage much like a 4WD pickup that gets worse mileage with the front axle engaged.
 
Yes - The front wheel can be completely disconnected with a lever on the handlebar. When engaged the front wheel only grabs when the rear tire spins - so it's really a auto AWD.

I have to say - I love mud holes now ! My son loves riding it in the snow !
 
Still running rich

OK - I must be missing something from 1/2 throttle to full throttle.

I have replaced the following
- Gaskets on reed cage
- Rubber carb boot
- Complete carb rebuild kit
- replaced 2 bearings in power valve - left side
- Main jets that I have tried, 180, 175, 172,170,168,165
- Pilot jets - 42, 40, 28
- Needles - J&D Blue, Red, NEDW, Stock GasGas
- Repacked the pipe yesterday for the second time this season
- NGK Platinum plug - 8EIX

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Have you measured the squish yet? You can do it through the plug hole if you are very careful. Use a long piece of solder and feed one end out to the cyl wall. Feed the other end to the opposite wall. This will leave a big loop out of the plug hole to hold on to. Rotate the flywheel as described in the article. The method in the article is the best way, but through the plug hole will give you an idea of how bad it is. If it is way out, then use the aticle's method before sending it off for machining.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/measuring_squish.html
 
Every single publication I've ever read about jetting two strokes indicates a main down tuning philosophy. I resisted and wasted a lot of time. Tune it from the other direction. The directions in your JD kit also reflects this. Get some fresh copper plugs and find the right main first. Do plug reads and plug chops to verify your results. Don't get hung up on the numbers. If it's best with a 165 or a 180 then that's it.

Move to the needle next. Good news, you already have one of the best. Dial in the clip setting, start in the middle. Feel how the power transitions. Listen to the pipe. The NEDW is really responsive to clip position I found. Such a good needle!

The pilot will probably be a 38 to a 42. Based on your altitude start with what is recommend. Keep in mind that it could end up very different than the recommendation. Listen and feel for the transitions. The GasGas 300 and NEDW is an electric smooth combination, any circuits out of step will readily show up. You should have linear power from about 1/4 throttle all the way up to WOT. You should be able to tell when the powervalve is doing it's job and when the bike is coming on the pipe. Linear, smooth transitions.

Everyone wants the de facto 2.5 turns out on the screw. Often it's just not realistic. If you're on a 40 with 4 turns out and the bike starts great in all weather, has good tip in throttle, idles steady and strong, and doesn't foul plugs; then that is correct. A 40 at 4 turns doesn't not translate to a 38 at 1.5 turns. Again, don't get hung up on numbers. Listen and feel.

It's great you have the float set right, and I think you have one piece of the puzzle solved with the NEDW. I went through the same frustrations as you trying to get my bike dialed in. Much time wasted. Many phone calls made. I've spoken to the Guru's at JD, at Factory Pro, at LT, and some of the local dyno tuners around here. I got numbers from everyone, and most of them were wrong for my bike in the end. It came down to plug inspection, feel, and listen. Now my bike is like fuel injection, I never make any jetting changes over the riding season. I'll adjust the screw once as the season changes to fall. It's dialed.

Lastly, make sure you're evaluating your changes when the bike is up to temperature. Another mistake I made and wasted a ton of time with. A Christini with a GasGas 300 dialed in right would be pure magic. Smooth, tractable, linear, with torque for days.
 
any updated on the poor gas millage ? I just pick up a 2014 christini with an ec300 and bad millage too so before I start remove and check everything I would like to know if you succeed making improvement if so what did you do
thanks
 
Your going to laugh !

OK - Friday - 6/9/2017 - looks like I finally may have found the problem - I replaced all the fuel line Friday afternoon and it was still having issues with idling -

Blipping the throttle - idle would stay up then drop out. I cranked in the air screw all the way - Blipped the throttle and it returned to normal immediately. I was about to change out the pilot jet to a fatter than what I had it in (38) after reading an article. I loosened the carburetor and noticed gas on my hand.

I tried tightening the float bowl plug and it just didn't look right. I removed it and could see a crack part way around the plug - I could actually see daylight in one spot. HOLY CRAP !!!! I ordered a new one and will know if this is the cure for my idling issues.

What I have done to date - A bit :mad:

1. Idle and Main Jets ( at least 4 each )
2. Needles - at least 4
3. JD Jet Kit
5. Complete Carb rebuild
6. Fuel line - and inline filter
7. New Gas cap
8. New intake boots and reed cage caskets
9. Replaced the right side Crank Seal
10. New Piston and Ring
11. New Power Valve Bearings
12. --- New Float Bowl PLUG and oring

What else did I do to the bike
1. Rekluse Core EXP
2. Computer
3 Tires
4. Radiators and hoses
 
lneil06 said:
OK - Friday - 6/9/2017 - looks like I finally may have found the problem - I replaced all the fuel line Friday afternoon and it was still having issues with idling -

Blipping the throttle - idle would stay up then drop out. I cranked in the air screw all the way - Blipped the throttle and it returned to normal immediately. I was about to change out the pilot jet to a fatter than what I had it in (38) after reading an article. I loosened the carburetor and noticed gas on my hand.

I tried tightening the float bowl plug and it just didn't look right. I removed it and could see a crack part way around the plug - I could actually see daylight in one spot. HOLY CRAP !!!! I ordered a new one and will know if this is the cure for my idling issues.

What I have done to date - A bit :mad:

1. Idle and Main Jets ( at least 4 each )
2. Needles - at least 4
3. JD Jet Kit
5. Complete Carb rebuild
6. Fuel line - and inline filter
7. New Gas cap
8. New intake boots and reed cage caskets
9. Replaced the right side Crank Seal
10. New Piston and Ring
11. New Power Valve Bearings
12. --- New Float Bowl PLUG and oring

What else did I do to the bike
1. Rekluse Core EXP
2. Computer
3 Tires
4. Radiators and hoses
Click to expand...


i will definitlly look into the bowl situation ,,, i rode today and i hit reserve after 32 mile die at 40 mile ,,,not impress ,,,bran new bike and i can walk farther away lol ...did you get an oversize fuel tank or something ??
thanks
 
barbotte said:
i will definitlly look into the bowl situation ,,, i rode today and i hit reserve after 32 mile die at 40 mile ,,,not impress ,,,bran new bike and i can walk farther away lol ...did you get an oversize fuel tank or something ??
thanks
Click to expand...

40miles seems a low, but 8miles on 1 litre reserve seems about right.

If your tank is the same as normal gg (about 9 litres) and you are getting 12km/8mi on reserve you should get about 110km on a tank something is not adding up. did you ride differently once you switched to reserve?
 
here are the full number fill gtank 8.7 littre ,, ride the wood in 2 and 3th gear nothing drastic ,,44 klm ihit reserve add 1/2 litre of fuel i had in my back pack ..dies at 63 klm when i hit reserve i took road back driving 4 th gear at 50 klm hours ,, so really i did less than i was saying due to the fact that i had fuel to make it back and doing 75 to 100 klm on a tank i would be very happy with that result ...
thank
 
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i talk to Steve and he said it is because the bike is new and need braking. so he is sending me new jet for it ,,, we shall see if it improve more to fallow in a week i guess
thanks
 
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