Potential KTM to GAS GAS convert. Please help!

[Colemanian]

Hello, I have been a "ktm guy" for a few years now. I will say that I've enjoyed the bikes I've owned, most recently an 07 250xc with a recluse and a scotts dampener. I had the suspension revalved, and we got along great. I recently sold it, with the intent to stay off dirtbikes for a while, but I have the itch to get another bike and I'm going to have to scratch it.

There is a 2011 six days 300ec at a local dealer that has my eye. The original owner bought it and hated it, he was a long time 4t husky rider that couldn't handle a 2t. The price is awesome on this bike, it only has 10 hrs on it, I've seen it in person.... I believe it.

The problem is, most racers around here don't care for gas gas, prolly just ignorance, but I want to be different. Tired of being one of the 20 other orange bikes on the line ( I race harescrambles, b class ). I am a low rpm rider, so the characteristics of the 300 gas gas should be great for me. I would like some suggestions on how to jet this bike, what mods( like pv covers ect ), to do, what springs to buy and where, ( I'm 215 in street clothes ). And anything else that would be beneficial for me from you experianced guys would help. Thanks

 

[forgiven]

Where is this bike at?

 

[forgiven]

Jetting is key on these, but did a pv cover and a few and it is outstanding in the low rpm range.

 

[Colemanian]

It's in central Missouri. I will probably buy a smart carb when the cast ones come out. I'm up for suggestions in the mean time. And I'll definitely be looking for a pv cover. I usually ride a gear or so high. Thanks for the reply.

 

[jpelaston]

I typically ride a gear hit as well and have never needed the PVC cover.

I think you will absolutely need new springs. I am about 205 pound Vet A Enduro rider and use .46 front springs and 5.4 rear and still felt they were a little soft. Aside from that, I bet you will not need anything.

 

[Jakobi]

If its a good deal I say go for it!

Being a 300 it will be more than happy to run all day in the lower rpm. There are a few things to check when setting them up, and after being through it all well and truly I'd suggest doing a few things prior to racing.

1) Measure the squish clearance and have the head machined to meet your requirements.
2) Check the preload on the powervalve actuator - remove any slop.
3) Identify which carb you have (some came with 36mm ASII, others with a 38mm). Go through it and ensure that its clean and that the float heights are set correctly. Note the current jets and slide number.
4) Get the suspension sorted. Depending on your weight, you'll probably be looking at getting it resprung front and rear. The stock shock has heaps of room for improvement with a revalve, and needless to say the forks will benefit probably more than anything else.
5) Bolt on your protection

Thats all. Very simple and reliable bikes. Part supplies have been a non issue. Jetting took some time and effort but I've now established a few good base lines to produce varying engine characteristics. The real key to the puzzle is the head and the float height though. Get these done and you'll find better power, better fuel economy, and more stability in the tune to deal with changes in elevation and temp.

 

[john01]

I didn't have the PV cover on my 2010 GG 300 and with the CCK needle I was running it had awesome low end and riding a gear high was smooth and FAST. The handling on the GG is unreal. If you end up getting it you are gonna love it. Hey I have a smart carb do in on Monday for my 08 165 Husky.

 

[Colemanian]

Thanks guys. I think it's a great deal. 4800 with only 10 hours. And it has brand new cycra hand guards, carbon fiber pipe guard, and a shark fin ( not sure if that's six days equipment or not ). I'll go through the carb first, then springs, then a revalve if I can swing it. I'm convinced..... It will be mine. :cool

 

[Jakobi]

Thats a bargain!

I am about to purchase a 2011 6days 300ec. It has the 38mm carb. I have always bought the jd kit for my previous ktms but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I live in sw Missouri. Pretty humid, 1200ft elevation. I'd like to know where to start on this carb. Thanks.

Pull the trigger. You'll be another happy customer!

Now I know they are advertised as having 38mm carbs, but when you take ownership you'll really have to check the carb out to confirm it. The ASII is the one with the shallow bowl (float height 6mm - works better between 7 and 8mm though). They have a small flat metal cap held down by 2 small bolts and on the top it will be marked 36 or 38 in a circle.

Being a KTM owner its very possible you'll have some decent needles in your kit to work with.

The JD needles are the same for the 250/300 KTM/GG 36m/38mm from what we have heard. I wouldn't hesitate to try dropping in either needle for a test run if you have them available. I can get you the JD recommended settings if you like. Obviously the pilots and mains are different depending on the carb size.

Otherwise if you want to drop a few coins people have had good luck working with the Suzuki needles (NEDx/NECx) and my personal favs are the Yamaha needles (N3Ex/N3Cx). Again the needle diameter pilot and main will depend on the carb size. For the 38mm ASII I have found the J diameter to work well in the 300's and W diameter in a 250. Usually looking at matching with a 40-42 pilot, and a 172-178 main. These are only my experiences with both a 300 and 250 in Australia running 95/98RON fuel at 20-30C 300-1000M. Others in the states have also had success using these needles but I'll let them chime in. A quick search in the jetting section will turn up heaps of info.

Just be aware that different models have had different carbs which have required substantially different specs.

 

[twowheels]

Thats a bargain!



Pull the trigger. You'll be another happy customer!

Now I know they are advertised as having 38mm carbs, but when you take ownership you'll really have to check the carb out to confirm it. The ASII is the one with the shallow bowl (float height 6mm - works better between 7 and 8mm though). They have a small flat metal cap held down by 2 small bolts and on the top it will be marked 36 or 38 in a circle.

Being a KTM owner its very possible you'll have some decent needles in your kit to work with.

The JD needles are the same for the 250/300 KTM/GG 36m/38mm from what we have heard. I wouldn't hesitate to try dropping in either needle for a test run if you have them available. I can get you the JD recommended settings if you like. Obviously the pilots and mains are different depending on the carb size.

Otherwise if you want to drop a few coins people have had good luck working with the Suzuki needles (NEDx/NECx) and my personal favs are the Yamaha needles (N3Ex/N3Cx). Again the needle diameter pilot and main will depend on the carb size. For the 38mm ASII I have found the J diameter to work well in the 300's and W diameter in a 250. Usually looking at matching with a 40-42 pilot, and a 172-178 main. These are only my experiences with both a 300 and 250 in Australia running 95/98RON fuel at 20-30C 300-1000M. Others in the states have also had success using these needles but I'll let them chime in. A quick search in the jetting section will turn up heaps of info.

Just be aware that different models have had different carbs which have required substantially different specs.

Pretty much what he said

The Six Days comes with 45mm Marzocchi's that we have had good luck tuning, but like Jeremy said you're going to need springs on at least the front (and likely a lot more rebound damping).

I've been really happy with the 38mm carb running an NEDW (2nd clip above 40F; 3rd below 40F), 42 pilot, 175 main combo unless the temps drop and the speeds rise, then a 178 goes in.

Welcome aboard.

 

[bukwheat]

At $4800, JUMP ON IT! As you can see I have the same bike. It is the neatest, best bike I have ever had and I've had a bunch (+35). I also ride a gear high. I tried a Rekluse on it but I decided it didn't really need one. The gearing is such that I pretty much just leave it in 3rd for slower sections and when I hit a faster section I go to 4th. Its almost like having an autoclutch stock. When I bought the 06 GG, I was maybe one of 3 riders in the state to be on a GG, and I bought that one for the same reason you are looking at this one, to be different. Go for it, you will be pleasantly surprised. Oh, I don't have an aftermarket PV cover either.

 

[Colemanian]

Well guys I'm trying to iron out the deal with the dealer. I may be an owner of a gg tomorrow. I've decided to send the suspension to house of horsepower in Oklahoma City to get sprung and valved. I'm getting super excited

 

[john01]

Good luck; hope you get it worked out with the dealer.

 

[Colemanian]

Well the dealer and I are arguing over 100 bucks. I hate to give in, as I've already budged 100 more than I wanted, but I'm probably going to cave in so I can load it up.

Have any of you had any experience with house of horsepower in Oklahoma City? Richard, the suspension guru, claims he can make that bike ride as smooth or smoother than almost any bike/brand combo out there. In south west MO, there is nothing but rocks and roots, most of us don't know what to do when we find actual dirt. When we ride in Kansas, where its the other way around, we laugh at the "technical" sections. That being said, rebound is super important, and the initial stroke needs to be pretty soft. Richard suggest using progressive fork springs, and race tech valves to get the oil flow needed to smooth the 45mm forks. What do you all think about this approach?

Also I plan to send the head to rb designs as soon as the bike s in my hands. I had the head milled on a previous katoom and it made a word of difference. What about the rb carb mod? Anyone have any real world expectancies with it? I'd like to try the smartcarb out when the cast version comes available but I don't want to wait around forever, and if I can get close to the same performance for half the price, then t would be worth it for me. Thanks

 

[Colemanian]

Well the dealer and I are arguing over 100 bucks. I hate to give in, as I've already budged 100 more than I wanted, but I'm probably going to cave in so I can load it up.

Have any of you had any experience with house of horsepower in Oklahoma City? Richard, the suspension guru, claims he can make that bike ride as smooth or smoother than almost any bike/brand combo out there. In south west MO, there is nothing but rocks and roots, most of us don't know what to do when we find actual dirt. When we ride in Kansas, where its the other way around, we laugh at the "technical" sections. That being said, rebound is super important, and the initial stroke needs to be pretty soft. Richard suggest using progressive fork springs, and race tech valves to get the oil flow needed to smooth the 45mm forks. What do you all think about this approach?

Also I plan to send the head to rb designs as soon as the bike s in my hands. I had the head milled on a previous katoom and it made a word of difference. What about the rb carb mod? Anyone have any real world expectancies with it? I'd like to try the smartcarb out when the cast version comes available but I don't want to wait around forever, and if I can get close to the same performance for half the price, then t would be worth it for me. Thanks

 

[john01]

I ran the stock suspension on my 2010 GG300 and after some break in time it wasn't bad. Sounds like you will need some help for your conditions. I don't know anything about House of Horsepower so I can't help you with that. Steve Beane (After Hours Performance) a site sponsor and GG dealer can also answer/help you out with your suspension. On the RB head and carb mods, they made a HUGE improvement on my son's 2011 TM 250MX. That bike needed it. My GG just needed needle, PJ, and MJ changes and it ran like a champ! I really think you should put a few hrs on the bike if you get it to see if you need to spend the extra bucks on performance mods. If you do feel it needs some help RB is where I'd go for that. I've read plenty of GG riders that used him to smooth things out. On the SmartCarb, I'll have mine Monday and will report on how it "feels" on a Husky 165. I wouldn't let $100.00 stop me from getting the bike unless I wasn't happy with how the dealer worked the deal. Good Luck.

 

[jdtriplett]

Just do it ! Beat him up and meet in the middle for $50.... You wont regret it ..The `11 300 Huney SD is the best one for me yet .. they say the 12-13 are even better but I can imagine how much better you can get .. i am similar to size and weight to you about 6'1" 215# in street gear and love to ride you will be ultra thrilled .. I have loved mine since the day I got it .. I waited almost a year to fool with the suspension .. And wow what an upgrade Allen at "Dual Sport Armory" fixed me up just fine ... I have rode KTM's Suzuki's and Yamaha's and the GAS GAS has what i wanted out of the box Hands Down ...

 

[roostafish]

The RB mod is well worth it. I have owned four Gassers, and this was one of my favorite mods for the bike. It makes the jetting chore much less of a chore, especially the knurled airscrew. Very nice mod for the money.

At your weight, suspension help is certainly in order. Richard rides these bikes and knows the internals well.

 

[jeffs2200]

I bought my 2011 300 from Richard at HOH. He revalved the Sachs forks and Sachs shock. I never did get the forks where I liked them. I do not blame Richard. I just do not think the forks were able to be made to perform to my expectations. He did my WP cc forks with the progressive springs and I loved em.

 

[Colemanian]

Thanks for the replies fellas, I AM going to pick this thing up first thing in the morning. I'll get some pics up as soon as I can. Thanks for helping me go GAS GAS.