Potential KTM to GAS GAS convert. Please help!
- Thread starter Colemanian
- Start date
Colemanian
New member
Well..... I got it. Bike is in great shape. It does have the 38mm carb. Only problem is I spun a rod bearing in my pickup on the way to the dealer so I have a motor that needs replacing now. Oh well. I'll get some pics of it as soon as possible, and now with my truck trouble I'll have a little while till I get a good ride report in.
Colemanian
New member
First impression 
, the bike is beautiful. I won't have to worry about blending in with all the others. The previous owner bout an Eline carbon pipe guard so I noticed some echo. The jetting seems off quite a bit. It seemed to bog when I would blip the throttle, kinda like a 450 does sometimes. It quickly gets moving though. I notices I was coming up on the trees in the field next door pretty quick. I barely put 10 min on the bike, then I took it home and began to tear it down(crazy huh)
I took the seat, tank, expansion pipe, skid plate, carb, and head off. The first thing I notices is the gas gas doesn't have all the nuts trapped like on a KTM. That's a small disappointment, but hopefully I won't have to work on this one much. When I took the skid plate off, there was some oil that had been sitting between the frame and skid. The pain had started to bubble. I hope I can get that under control, so that is another small negative. I drained the oil and antifreeze so I could take the head off. Piston has a little carbon build up, so did the head, the plug was pretty dark too. I'm guessing its a little rich.
Upon removing the carb, I noticed it had 38 stamped on top. The side said "al1 o Ben"
#7 slide
N1ef needle top notch
175 main
40 pilot
Idle 3/4 out
Those setting seemed a little weird, I have at my disposal a
Chn needle
Nozf needle
Jd red needle
All jets sized I could want
I also took the pv covers off. I noticed the pv was very easy to move. The left hand side looked odd. The pv pivot was threaded as if it was supposed to have a nut on it but it didn't have one. It seems to be retained with a small bolt off to the side. Does this sound right? What should I be looking for?
All in all I'm very happy with the purchase. I'm going to send the head to rb designs as soon as I get a squish reading. I'm probably going to send the carb as well, I only have two weeks until a big race is planned. " the ozark 100 miler". Please lend me you experience. Thanks.
, the bike is beautiful. I won't have to worry about blending in with all the others. The previous owner bout an Eline carbon pipe guard so I noticed some echo. The jetting seems off quite a bit. It seemed to bog when I would blip the throttle, kinda like a 450 does sometimes. It quickly gets moving though. I notices I was coming up on the trees in the field next door pretty quick. I barely put 10 min on the bike, then I took it home and began to tear it down(crazy huh)I took the seat, tank, expansion pipe, skid plate, carb, and head off. The first thing I notices is the gas gas doesn't have all the nuts trapped like on a KTM. That's a small disappointment, but hopefully I won't have to work on this one much. When I took the skid plate off, there was some oil that had been sitting between the frame and skid. The pain had started to bubble. I hope I can get that under control, so that is another small negative. I drained the oil and antifreeze so I could take the head off. Piston has a little carbon build up, so did the head, the plug was pretty dark too. I'm guessing its a little rich.
Upon removing the carb, I noticed it had 38 stamped on top. The side said "al1 o Ben"
#7 slide
N1ef needle top notch
175 main
40 pilot
Idle 3/4 out
Those setting seemed a little weird, I have at my disposal a
Chn needle
Nozf needle
Jd red needle
All jets sized I could want
I also took the pv covers off. I noticed the pv was very easy to move. The left hand side looked odd. The pv pivot was threaded as if it was supposed to have a nut on it but it didn't have one. It seems to be retained with a small bolt off to the side. Does this sound right? What should I be looking for?
All in all I'm very happy with the purchase. I'm going to send the head to rb designs as soon as I get a squish reading. I'm probably going to send the carb as well, I only have two weeks until a big race is planned. " the ozark 100 miler". Please lend me you experience. Thanks.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Jetting info posted in your other thread.
The LHS powervalve is correct. You aren't missing any nuts. Its a very simple drum valve and shaft with 2 bearings that press fit into the cylinder. Its retained by the bolt you described to the side.
The spooge in the skidplate will be from the LHS PV drain. You can either reroute it through a hole so it drains to nature, or just clean the bashplate from time to time. I do the later. My frame rails have had the paint come off from contact but no issues with the structural integrity of them.
The RHS powervalve you want the plate to be pushed up against the stop as per image below. If its not and has a few mm of freeplay you'll need to remove the pri engine cover and adjust the tension from the governor. It makes all the difference. In regards to the actuator arm, DO NOT PULL UP on it. Doing so can dislodge a ball bearing and cause the whole system to bind up.
The LHS powervalve is correct. You aren't missing any nuts. Its a very simple drum valve and shaft with 2 bearings that press fit into the cylinder. Its retained by the bolt you described to the side.
The spooge in the skidplate will be from the LHS PV drain. You can either reroute it through a hole so it drains to nature, or just clean the bashplate from time to time. I do the later. My frame rails have had the paint come off from contact but no issues with the structural integrity of them.
The RHS powervalve you want the plate to be pushed up against the stop as per image below. If its not and has a few mm of freeplay you'll need to remove the pri engine cover and adjust the tension from the governor. It makes all the difference. In regards to the actuator arm, DO NOT PULL UP on it. Doing so can dislodge a ball bearing and cause the whole system to bind up.
Colemanian
New member
thanks again for the informed response. I did pull up on the actuator arm already, so I hope it's alright. There wasn't any play either.Jetting info posted in your other thread.
The LHS powervalve is correct. You aren't missing any nuts. Its a very simple drum valve and shaft with 2 bearings that press fit into the cylinder. Its retained by the bolt you described to the side.
The spooge in the skidplate will be from the LHS PV drain. You can either reroute it through a hole so it drains to nature, or just clean the bashplate from time to time. I do the later. My frame rails have had the paint come off from contact but no issues with the structural integrity of them.
The RHS powervalve you want the plate to be pushed up against the stop as per image below. If its not and has a few mm of freeplay you'll need to remove the pri engine cover and adjust the tension from the governor. It makes all the difference. In regards to the actuator arm, DO NOT PULL UP on it. Doing so can dislodge a ball bearing and cause the whole system to bind up.
Colemanian
New member
Colemanian
New member
Colemanian
New member
desertgasser300
Banned
One word.......BEAUTIFUL!
Colemanian
New member
Sending the forks to cannon racing today too for a re-valve. Getting the proper springs for my weight too. Soo my first real ride with be with a fairly heavily modded bike. Some of you may think I'm crazy for dumping money in a bike that I just bought but I got this bike cheaper than I was planning to spen on a pumpkin so I have a little extra to spend. Plus I have a lot of haters on heavily modded katooms that can't believe I went gas gas so I have something to prove to them.
andoman
New member
I agree 100%
I've had several KTM's that were all great bikes. Suspension revalve and respring was a must in every case.
Neither one of my orange 2T's actually required squishband surgery, but one had it when I bought it, and it is a better bike for it.
On a Gasser, it really falls into the need to do category. But it is cheap and is probably the best "bang for the buck" mod that can be done to any 2T.
I've had several KTM's that were all great bikes. Suspension revalve and respring was a must in every case.
Neither one of my orange 2T's actually required squishband surgery, but one had it when I bought it, and it is a better bike for it.
On a Gasser, it really falls into the need to do category. But it is cheap and is probably the best "bang for the buck" mod that can be done to any 2T.
Colemanian
New member
Right, I wouldn't necessarily call it heavily modded. Just may be considered so since I've never rode it. Lol. Any of you guy run a steering dampener? I think that will be my next mod. Seems to help keep the 2t bikes more stable.
Diggs345
Gold Level Site Supporter
desertgasser300
Banned
Save your money , never needed one on mine
Ditto, I bought one and have never turned it past zero!
Colemanian
New member
I uses on on my last katoom. I used a scotts dampener. It really helped me keep from taking a handlebar to the gut when I clip a tree. Which tends to happen when I get tired or try to start pushing it during a race. I'll have to see how the bike does at the 100 miler.lol
P.s. are there any common nicknames for the gas gas.
P.s. are there any common nicknames for the gas gas.
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