Powervalve issue?

Hi again, well I've given it 2 more attempts about 20 mins each time, in the end I was hitting it so hard I thought I would crack it so I"ve all but given up, I purchased the bike when it only had 1500 k's so I don't think it's ever been apart, why couldn't they just have some sought simple adjustment under that small cover On the side of the cylinder, but that would be easy wouldn't it.
 
Get the penetrating oil in, use some heat to help things expand and such, and perservere. You'll get there!
 
Hi, when you say some heat, I have a small blow torch is that what you mean ? sounds a bit extreme, will it damaged the coating on the case ?
 
It'll come off eventually.Be sure to clean up that dowel and coppercoat it for easy removal next time.
 
VICTORY !!!
side case finally came off, I lay the bike on it's side, there are 3 holes on the side case which have thread, I put the screws back in those tied some rope around them made a loop got a shovel to use as a lever, put a lot of upward pressure on it, almost lifting the bike off the ground, and continued to pound the case with my trusty rubber mallet and after about 5 mins she let go ! looks like the dowels were a little corroded, so I cleaned them up with some sand paper and I might put some grease on them before reassembly , speaking of which do I need to put any silicone around the water pump gasket or not ? thanks for your help everyone
 
VICTORY !!!
side case finally came off, I lay the bike on it's side, there are 3 holes on the side case which have thread, I put the screws back in those tied some rope around them made a loop got a shovel to use as a lever, put a lot of upward pressure on it, almost lifting the bike off the ground, and continued to pound the case with my trusty rubber mallet

That would have been an interesting scene to explain to anyone who turned up:D
 
VICTORY !!!
side case finally came off, I lay the bike on it's side, there are 3 holes on the side case which have thread, I put the screws back in those tied some rope around them made a loop got a shovel to use as a lever, put a lot of upward pressure on it, almost lifting the bike off the ground, and continued to pound the case with my trusty rubber mallet and after about 5 mins she let go ! looks like the dowels were a little corroded, so I cleaned them up with some sand paper and I might put some grease on them before reassembly , speaking of which do I need to put any silicone around the water pump gasket or not ? thanks for your help everyone

Instead of grease, I suggest using an "antiseize" compound. I use it on most bearing races and anything else that I want to possibly remove on a machine.
I use medium strength loctite on most threads. In addition to keeping bolts and nuts from backing off, it acts like an antiseize for the bolts.


.
 
You know you can also buy a different spring . I had jetting problem in tropical weather on my 300 racing 2009 and i changed the spring for the 2012 model softer and longer( here goes the play..) and that solved part of the problem .
 
If I had the bike standing, pulled on the RHS lever/actuator plate to open and close the PV. What would the chances be of ball bearings falling out of the PV Govenor. 5% - 50% - 100% ?
Could you check without pulling side cases off ?
FWIW I didn?t hear anything drop.

The reason I disassembled was the bike was breaking down on acceleration and rattling badly under accelleration. I found that the pin holding the lever to the actuator plate had broken off.
 
Its my understanding that if you've dislodged a ball bearing in the governor that it will bind up. Ie plate won't sit back in its correct position.
 
Put back together and fits well. Should have read this thread first guess I will find out for sure sunday if all is good.
Thanks again.
 
Just learning about the GasGas style PV.

I have a 2000 200ec.
From what I ca tell, the PV is pretty much the same for all of them?

The pivot does sit against the stop, but almost no pressure at all will allow a couple of mm movement.

I get a rattle, but more what I am trying to solve is lack of bottom end and a hard hit.
I know is is a 200 not a 300, but I'm trying for best bottom end power and less top end. As linear as I can get.
If I drop 10hp on top that is just fine, maybe better.

So...from my description does it. Sound like I need to pull the side cover and adjust it?

Any other ideas to get what I want is welcome (already flywheel weight).

Mark
 
If your power valve is working as it should, you have a few choices to level or the power hit. I would make sure that you are jetted correctly. The incorrect pilot jet and air screw adjustment can rob you of low end. If your main jet is correct, you would feel a big hit going from an inefficient low end to a strong top end. So jetting could have a lot to do with the hit you feel.

Also consider adjusting the ignition timing. You have a small range of adjustment to work with but it's enough to make a difference. You can read a shop manual for tips on that.

The last thing that can be changed is the spring rate in the power valve governor.
a heavy spring takes more to open so when your bike is on the pipe and the power is still closed because it hasn't yet over come the heavier spring rate, your bike is less efficient than it could be. So it feels like there is less of a hit. Note that the when the spring is overcome and the pv opens, it will still hit but it will be later and at higher rpm. It may be more controllable for you.

Don't give up on the 200. It can be a great engine for trail riding with plenty of low end when set up correctly.
 
BTW a flywheel can rob you of low end power off idle. The engine had to work harder to get the extra weight spinning. You may want to take it off and work on the jetting, timing and pv spring rates.
 
Bumping in this thread as i am still chasing down a rattle. It comes from the left hand side tough, low rps while the bike is moving.

What i want to find out if there should be play in the PV actuator arm and the PV actuator plate, here is a video i made a while ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuJqHtTPUzU

Should i tighten the nut down to remove the play in the arm ?
 
You could tighten it a bit more but be VERY careful. That bolt is know to break off from the plate very easily. Most people recommend "lightly" heating up the nut so that the plastic or Teflon inside softens just a bit. Then tighten it down just enough to stop the rattle of the arm. It should still move freely and not be bound up at all. Remember, the bolt can break off very easily.
 
I call this the right side of the bike. If the rattle is coming from the other side, check your fly wheel. Check your starter gear ring, check the ignition parts.
 
Thank you very much. If this doesn't fix it, i'll tear the bike down and have a look at the left hand side, see if there is anything in there that can cause the rattle.
 
If the PV is mechaniclly limited -(so it won't open all the way)
Is here any damage to the PV governor?

Looking at the pics it doesn't to look like it to me.
But just checking.

I have not pulled th cover and lookd at it yet (I'd like to have a gasket, just in case I trash it)

Mark
 
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