Powervalve issue?

Ok guys I'm new to GG enduros. Had several trials. Anyway....I picked up a sweet 2010 ec300. Hands down the best bike I have owned. That's a long list too. To include Ktm 200, Ktm 300, husqvarna wr300,
Anyway the first ride on it it made a strange "silencer fell off" sound. So google brought me here. Lol so I pulled the powervalve assembly for cleaning. I was reading about the side to side play. And how I can stick. I noticed something that caught my eye. When I was removing the pv lever plate the nut was loose. It was barely touching the washer. Then during installation I snugged it down. Checked the operation by hand. About 3 out of 10 times the plate wouldn't return all the way. I backed the nut off just a tad. Just to take pressure off. Worked perfect!! So if your plate isn't sitting on the stop check this first.

Also I noticed a tad bit of side to side play. I was reading about some washer on the left side. I found some perfect washers at work. I put one between the bearings on the left side. Still a tad of play. So I put one more but it was too much, I removed one and installed the Allen head and washer that keeps the bearing in. Then I very lighty peened the washer right where the edge of the bearing is. I kept checking it until I got the desired pressure on the bearing without binding. 👍
 
My bike was making a rattling sound last time I rode it. I pulled the upper PV cover off expecting to find it out of adjustment. However the plate is against the stop. But the actuator rod is VERY loose. I noticed that upper nut was backed off and the washer behind it had a lot of room to move.

How tight should that upper nut be? If I take to where it even feels snug (NOT tight just snug) the rod binds and plate doesn't spring back on its own. Does that mean the lower bell crank nut is loose?

Yes my bike is filthy. I have no outside water right now, my hose line froze and broke this winter.

DSCN1219_zps93b117c4.jpg


Thanks.
 
i would take a guess the nylock on the nut it no good, its torque is something tiny like 6nm. I put a new nut on mine last night when doing the piston. I would imagine you need a new nut.
 
To Pinittowinit:
The small "spacer washer" is located right behind the powervalve bracket (looking at the right end of the pv assembly).
You can see the spacer in Jiikoo811's photo posted in this thread.
It is a relatively expensive spacer, coming from GG; but if one uses a different spacer with a too large o.d. it can cause the bracket to stick as things are tightened up.

To Coop:
One should always replace the aircraft style 5mm locking nut (nyloc nut) after removing it. That way, it will never "back off" by itself (due to motion and vibration).
As a matter of fact, when removing the nut, one should apply a bit of heat from a small propane torch, or other focused heat source, to get the locking nut to let go and unscrew without damaging the powervalve bracket. (The 5mm stud often comes loose from the pv bracket if one does not apply heat.)
The nuts are much cheaper than the pv brackets.
I buy these nuts by the 100 count sack, to allow me to sell them relatively cheaply.

Good Wrenching and Good Riding!
Jim
 
Jim Cook said:
To Coop:
One should always replace the aircraft style 5mm locking nut (nyloc nut) after removing it. That way, it will never "back off" by itself (due to motion and vibration).
As a matter of fact, when removing the nut, one should apply a bit of heat from a small propane torch, or other focused heat source, to get the locking nut to let go and unscrew without damaging the powervalve bracket. (The 5mm stud often comes loose from the pv bracket if one does not apply heat.)
The nuts are much cheaper than the pv brackets.
I buy these nuts by the 100 count sack, to allow me to sell them relatively cheaply.

Good Wrenching and Good Riding!
Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks Johnny and Jim.

I've never removed it but do not know what any previous owner has done. I will replace it but I still need to know how tight it should be lol. I don't believe that rod should be nearly as loose as it was before I snugged it back up. I'll try the torque Johnny said when I get a new one.

Edit: I replaced the nut and tightened it as suggested. After speaking with BoomBoom (forum member and very knowledgeable GG guy) I believe my rattle is coming from the pipe o-rings. I think Jakobi also said his does that when it's time to change them. It is very easy to remove the pipe so I think they are worn.
 
Last edited:
Coop said:
Thanks Johnny and Jim.

Edit: I replaced the nut and tightened it as suggested.
Click to expand...

I don't torque the 5mm locking nut, but rather simply take out the play or extra space/slack between the nut and the linkage rod. That is the reason for the locking style nut. (It won't back off, even though it is not torqued against the rod.)


.
 
Jim Cook said:
I don't torque the 5mm locking nut, but rather simply take out the play or extra space/slack between the nut and the linkage rod. That is the reason for the locking style nut. (It won't back off, even though it is not torqued against the rod.)


.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I did. By "suggested" I meant by BoomBoom. Sorry :) .
 
desertgasser300 said:
Viton o-rings can be sourced from McMaster and Carr, O-Ring, 3 mm Width, 44 mm ID



Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Those are the right ones. I keep a bag of these in the tool box. I have had to change them several times. About whenever you get vibration/rattle, its usually the orings. I have used so many of these that I need to order a new bag of them.
 
I ordered 4 of the KTM o-rings after reading several on here used them but wouldn't mind having a few more extras so I don't run out. Thanks for the tip about McMaster-Carr.
 
The pivot bolt broke off one of our 300s and it ran fine on the bottom end and ok in the mid range but it had a significant reduction in top end power.
 
Hi, is there a trick to get the right side case off so I can adjust my power valve, I've taken every bolt off around the outside as well as the clutch cover and water pump cover and impeller, have been gently tapping case with rubber hammer but the bloody thing won't budge, rock solid, thanks
 
Sounds like the dowls are stuck, continue to gently tap around the cover.
It may take a while. but you will get it off.best of luck.
 
bigtoe said:
Hi, is there a trick to get the right side case off so I can adjust my power valve, I've taken every bolt off around the outside as well as the clutch cover and water pump cover and impeller, have been gently tapping case with rubber hammer but the bloody thing won't budge, rock solid, thanks
Click to expand...

Unless you haven't yet removed the kickstart lever, I echo the previous reply. Either dowels are stuck or the previous mechanic used enough gasket sealer to "glue" it on. I either install my gaskets dry or grease them, except for the ignition cover.

Good Riding and Wrenching to You!
Jim



.
 
Same as Jim. I just grease the gaskets and they seem to break away quite cleanly when required.

The dowel down near the water pump will likely be the one thats causing the issues. A little heat, some penetrating fluids, and a mallet might get things moving in the right direction.
 
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