Spark plug insulator around electrode broke off in the motor

I have tried to research the cdi that came with the bike, but there is limited info out there that I could find and the part numbers are confusing.

The p/n on the cdi that was in the bike is ee51100ct-clk-1 but all the info I found shows ee51100ct-clb-1 as the stock cdi.

Detonation was definetly and issue and it did also seem to flame out from time to time but being my first 300 and coming off of a flame out king YZ450 I thought it might just be normal.

I am hoping to take the bike out tomorrow for a real ride but everything is day to day right now with all the lock downs in place due to COVID19

I checked my CDI mate.. I have a ee51100ct-clk-1 single dot on the back. Hasn't been updated. I'm going to pull my spark plug for a look.

Also not sure if it has been mentioned in the thread, but is your engine a 250/300? Update: I see you have a 300.

Have checked the parts fiche and they have listings for the 300 and GP but different part numbers again.
 
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I checked my CDI mate.. I have a ee51100ct-clk-1 single dot on the back. Hasn't been updated. I'm going to pull my spark plug for a look.

Also not sure if it has been mentioned in the thread, but is your engine a 250/300? Update: I see you have a 300.

Have checked the parts fiche and they have listings for the 300 and GP but different part numbers again.

I will snap a photo tomorrow but I think mine has 2 dots on the bottom. So I don't know the cause but that cdi was definitely a problem. I had 3 used cdis to try and 2 of the 3 didnt work well but the third on worked great. Will post a video after its finished uploading. I will get the part numbers from each cdi and post them up tomorrow. So the problem I had with the other two cdis was similar to the clk that was originally in my bike. Bottom end power and response was lacking and the it seemed to have a lean spot where it would detonate 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and at higher rpms regardless of throttle position it sound like it was sputtering or the pv wasnt opening. I figured this last part out because one of the cdis was really really bad with this. Where I had problems before I think is I interpreted both of these symptoms as rich which had me lean out the pilot/a/s which caused detonation so I went richer and it still detonated but was better. I also would go lean on the main to try to get rid of the sputter but it only worked really lean. With the cdi thay ended up working flawlessly did so with stock jetting N1ef 4th position, 42p, 175m.

I dont know why the other cdis werent working as they were left overs from the 2018 race bikes and have been in a bin since 2018..... I am going to ask the shop I work with if I can ship them to them and have them flash them to the most recent map and see how they run in my bike and if they work keep one spare and then sell the spares cheaply to friends in need since I know the 2018 cdi are not readily available.
 
Have checked the parts fiche and they have listings for the 300 and GP but different part numbers again.[/QUOTE]

Yes, the gp is the same p/n as the xc and ec
 
sounds good to me, right?
what do you think,compared to before?
you do have a lovely area to ride!!
i saw a couple more guys that couldn't resist going out? ;-)
 
Wow! Man, what a friggin' difference, I can't believe it. It sounds so much better now. I compared the new vids to the others and its night and day difference.
Its unbelievable what the CDI swap did to your bike. I am really glad you found the reason. To me it is clear that the CDI was what destroyed the sparks and finally your piston...

I wish I could ride, weather is brilliant but we're under strict lock down :rolleyes:
 
sounds good to me, right?
what do you think,compared to before?
you do have a lovely area to ride!!
i saw a couple more guys that couldn't resist going out? ;-)

Its night and day difference for sure. There were alot of people there for a Friday. Unfortunately I think they are going to shut the parks down soon though.
 
Wow! Man, what a friggin' difference, I can't believe it. It sounds so much better now. I compared the new vids to the others and its night and day difference.
Its unbelievable what the CDI swap did to your bike. I am really glad you found the reason. To me it is clear that the CDI was what destroyed the sparks and finally your piston...

I wish I could ride, weather is brilliant but we're under strict lock down :rolleyes:

Hear in CA we are under what is called shelter in place so we are only allowed to go outside for what they call essential activities. Luckily for me outdoor exercise is considered an essential activity. But because most people are not able to work they flocked to regional and state parks/beaches and were being idiots so they closed all parking lots to most state parks and beachs but because the offeoad community is small we didnt get noticed but I think we will be next be we'll see.
 
Ok, so I looked at the cdi part numbers and these are my notes on them. I don't know the history on the used cdis as they have been sitting in a box since 2018 and the other question I don't have the answer to is I dont know if the 3 cdis that didnt work for my bike are bad or incompatible because of something done to my bike like a different flywheel or something else. This worries me a little but oh well. All the cdis that didn't work well have the same symptoms but some were worse then others.

EE51100CT-CLK-1- Came with the bike and was problematic at low end and needed a really lean main to get on the pipe. This cdi also has two divets on the bottom so I believe that has the updated map installed

EE51100CT-CLJ-1 - First one worked better then clk but still was not smooth off bottom and no powerband

EE51100CT-CLJ-1 second one would not get on the powerband at all

EE51100CT-CRB-1- this one worked great and what fixed my problem.

The CRB is what is listed on the parts diagram as the OE cdi part number.
 
but you can keep the good cdi then, at a fair price?
glad you persevered with the gasser brand, many others would've tossed it out the door or parted it out.
have some great rides now (before they shut down your parks too)
we (in europe) will have to be patient for at least another month, only essential activities :( so groceries, hiking and cycling, that's IT)
 
but you can keep the good cdi then, at a fair price?
glad you persevered with the gasser brand, many others would've tossed it out the door or parted it out.
have some great rides now (before they shut down your parks too)
we (in europe) will have to be patient for at least another month, only essential activities :( so groceries, hiking and cycling, that's IT)

Yes he gave me the cdis, he has no need for them anymore since the Gas Gas team here folded up when KTM bought the brand.

The shelter in place here has those activities listed as examples too but also says those are only examples of what can be done and they have not closed the state parks yet so we may be fine for a while but again people are really taking advantage of it sonce they can't work so I imagine those parks are next to get shut down but I will keep riding until they do. I just keep my distance, I park as far away from everyone as possible and stay away from everyone.
 
Ok, so I looked at the cdi part numbers and these are my notes on them. I don't know the history on the used cdis as they have been sitting in a box since 2018 and the other question I don't have the answer to is I dont know if the 3 cdis that didnt work for my bike are bad or incompatible because of something done to my bike like a different flywheel or something else. This worries me a little but oh well. All the cdis that didn't work well have the same symptoms but some were worse then others.

EE51100CT-CLK-1- Came with the bike and was problematic at low end and needed a really lean main to get on the pipe. This cdi also has two divets on the bottom so I believe that has the updated map installed

EE51100CT-CLJ-1 - First one worked better then clk but still was not smooth off bottom and no powerband

EE51100CT-CLJ-1 second one would not get on the powerband at all

EE51100CT-CRB-1- this one worked great and what fixed my problem.

The CRB is what is listed on the parts diagram as the OE cdi part number.

Had any of the other cdi's been marked as 2 dot?

I have a mate with a 250 XC here in Aus. He has the CRB-1 and never flashed. Couple hundred hours on it and has been stoked.

I have the CLK, never flashed and runs well. I've had the head modded though so not apples to apples either.

The parts fiches/exploded diagrams and parts listings also show 2 different cdi's depending on the flywheel/stator that is used. I believe if you upgrade the CDI you're meant to change the flywheel as well. Perhaps that's what you're seeing. I bet your CRB is a single dot, not flashed.. and you're probably getting a bit more punch with it being an XC cdi too.
 
Had any of the other cdi's been marked as 2 dot?

I have a mate with a 250 XC here in Aus. He has the CRB-1 and never flashed. Couple hundred hours on it and has been stoked.

I have the CLK, never flashed and runs well. I've had the head modded though so not apples to apples either.

The parts fiches/exploded diagrams and parts listings also show 2 different cdi's depending on the flywheel/stator that is used. I believe if you upgrade the CDI you're meant to change the flywheel as well. Perhaps that's what you're seeing. I bet your CRB is a single dot, not flashed.. and you're probably getting a bit more punch with it being an XC cdi too.

Yes the CRB is a single dot. I tried researching but gave up because the info is so scattered. That is one thing I do like better about my YZ450 is there is so much easy to access information. Apples to oranges though I guess

I am just happy it is working now. The trick now is to ride it as much as possible to build confidence in it being actually fixed, this has been a long saga for me and I am still paranoid.
 
Yes the CRB is a single dot. I tried researching but gave up because the info is so scattered. That is one thing I do like better about my YZ450 is there is so much easy to access information. Apples to oranges though I guess

I am just happy it is working now. The trick now is to ride it as much as possible to build confidence in it being actually fixed, this has been a long saga for me and I am still paranoid.

How many hours did it take to eat the last piston?

I'd be periodically pulling the spark plug and checking for signs of detonation. Pulling the exhaust and checking the edge of the piston and ringlands should show if its beginning to hurt your engine again as well.
 
How many hours did it take to eat the last piston?

I'd be periodically pulling the spark plug and checking for signs of detonation. Pulling the exhaust and checking the edge of the piston and ringlands should show if its beginning to hurt your engine again as well.

About 3 riding hours last time but I could feel the detonation which I don't feel at all this time. I will be pulling the plug regularly for sure
 
I think you'll find she is sweet mate. 3 hours isn't much at all!

From the parts
SET CDI PROGRAMMED ENDURO 300 2018
EE51100CT-CLJ-1 (u. 1) - ONLY FOR 30? ROTOR

SET CDI PROGRAMMED ENDURO GP 300 2018
EE51100CT-CSK-1 (u. 1)

Not sure what the 30a Rotor is but I would think it is a variation in the flywheel/stator timing.

I wonder if they took some advance out of the stator timing and then added it back in with the CDI. Then in the event that you ran a newer CDI with the older stator you'd end up far too advanced.
 
Yes he gave me the cdis, he has no need for them anymore since the Gas Gas team here folded up when KTM bought the brand.

The shelter in place here has those activities listed as examples too but also says those are only examples of what can be done and they have not closed the state parks yet so we may be fine for a while but again people are really taking advantage of it sonce they can't work so I imagine those parks are next to get shut down but I will keep riding until they do. I just keep my distance, I park as far away from everyone as possible and stay away from everyone.

Problem with race teams/bikes is you never know which parts or which models they use. For me it sounds very likely what Jakobi said about the too far advanced ignition.
However, the bike runs and like Hannes I think its great that you haven't thrown it into the next pond and bought something else. It was a hard time for you and my last GG gave me at least the same amount of trouble and anger.

Its a brilliant bike with the best suspension you get out of the box and I hope you'll can enjoy it even more in the future.

Stay healthy
Doc
 
So I switched over the cdi with the stock jetting and wow what a difference. The power picks up from the bottom with little to no hesitation and pulls all the way through. Zero pinging or detonation. Pulled a longish hill climb wide open amd got to the top and the idle dropped right down where it should be. The bike sounds completely different and feels like I thought a 300 would. I am finding out that prior to this my bike was extremely under powered especially in the low end. I lugging in 3rd and 4th gear in placed where prior to this I would need second or even first. I will get a video up soon but damn I am excited. This was a long expensive journey but I am soooo happy with this bike now and just want to get back out and ride. Its too bad the timing is horrible with the covid 19 pandemic and riding areas getting shut down till this is over.

I suppose this is better than getting a new bike. You have just upgraded your bike almost for free
 
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