Twisted Engineering - Carbon Bars

What's with the barkbusters touching in the middle??? That would drive me nuts after spending that much money... With the bars flexing that does not seem right...??

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I thought the same thing with them touching. If you cut your bars down thought there naturally going to have to go more toward the middle of the bike. As for the bars flexing i don't know if it's normal because I don't know what normal is for these. They definetly move a bit though because you can see the floating mounts move a bit when real force is put on them. I'd expect them to move a bit though with 230 pounds pushing on them
 
Yeah that is a little goofy. I mean, if a rider is going to run real bark busters, 90% of them will cut their bars down. To have that much extra is not good. In retrospect, having that slot is the worst thing they could have done. If it was solid, we could cut them and drill a new hole for the bolt. Which is basically what I do with them anyway.
 
Funny you say that because my old ones were cut down on the end and re drilled. These ones your hooped with though because the slot is what makes the guard "float". I thought about cutting but would surely bugger the mount, it would be far to weak. On a side note I had no fitment issues as others have had with bending or tweaking perhaps because of the bend I have? The bolted right up with the bar clamps sliding over quite smoothly. I guess time will tell how the rest of the setup will perform, visually it doesn't really bother me just could have been designed a little better(unless I screwed them up but I can't see an alternative mounting method as being possible)
 
If I didn't chock my front wheel I'd be blowing seals like crazy! My bro Inlaw didn't think it mattered and twice in a row down a crappy road ended up replacing seals. I couldn't take the risk. I could likely slow down in the. Truck as well down those back roads but that's not likely to happen with the way I drive!
Not to go off topic, but I'm curious about the reasoning behind the belief that fork seals will blow from the forks being compressed by tie downs etc. on a trailer, or pickup etc......

All hard evidence points to it not being physically possible for this to happen on modern forks. There is no load on the seals at partial static compression other than the physical weight of a small amount of oil, which can't blow the seals.
The oil itself doesn't compress inside the fork, it only gets pushed thru valving during the action of the fork. At partial static compression, there is no load on the oil at all.
Sometimes you may have a tiny bit of positive air buildup, but never more than 1-2 psi, which is nowhere near enough to 'blow a seal'
Static partial compression of forks couldn't possibly create any where near the kind of load or shock load on the seals, fork internals etc. that riding itself does.

Simply put, anyone that believes they have 'blown their fork seals' from compressing the forks by tie downs has an un-related pre-existing problem with their forks, such as a scratch or nick on the slider, worn sliders, or a buildup of dirt in the wiper, or seal itself. Or?(insert problem here)
These problems can reveal themselves during static compression as the fork is compressed and held for extended periods of time at the spots where the real problem lies. People often mistake & scapegoat the resulting oil leak due to the forks being compressed by tie downs.
Riding the bike is what damages the seals, wipers & sliders. Static partial compression can make the damage obvious, due to the presence of oil leaking.

Back to topic.....
 
Not to go off topic, but I'm curious about the reasoning behind the belief that fork seals will blow from the forks being compressed by tie downs etc. on a trailer, or pickup etc......

All hard evidence points to it not being physically possible for this to happen on modern forks. There is no load on the seals at partial static compression other than the physical weight of a small amount of oil, which can't blow the seals.

The oil itself doesn't compress inside the fork, it only gets pushed thru valving during the action of the fork. At partial static compression, there is no load on the oil at all.
Sometimes you may have a tiny bit of positive air buildup, but never more than 1-2 psi, which is nowhere near enough to 'blow a seal'
Static partial compression of forks couldn't possibly create any where near the kind of load or shock load on the seals, fork internals etc. that riding itself does.

Simply put, anyone that believes they have 'blown their fork seals' from compressing the forks by tie downs has an un-related pre-existing problem with their forks, such as a scratch or nick on the slider, worn sliders, or a buildup of dirt in the wiper, or seal itself. Or?(insert problem here)
These problems can reveal themselves during static compression as the fork is compressed and held for extended periods of time at the spots where the real problem lies. People often mistake & scapegoat the resulting oil leak due to the forks being compressed by tie downs.
Riding the bike is what damages the seals, wipers & sliders. Static partial compression can make the damage obvious, due to the presence of oil leaking.

Back to topic.....

Well there you go, learn something new everyday!;)
 
I think they look shit trev , time to take them off and put them in the classifieds

I figured someone would say that. With the way I've flipped parts in the past I have had several pm's asking for them if I didn't like them lol. Hopefully that's not the case with these, they seem like a very quality built product
 
I figured someone would say that. With the way I've flipped parts in the past I have had several pm's asking for them if I didn't like them lol. Hopefully that's not the case with these, they seem like a very quality built product

Only joking pal , I'm going to order a set soon , I just need to decide which bend to go with , are yours as high as they look .
On a good note I managed to win a complete starter kit on ebay for 200 uk pounds :-)
 
I figured someone would say that. With the way I've flipped parts in the past I have had several pm's asking for them if I didn't like them lol. Hopefully that's not the case with these, they seem like a very quality built product

didn't even think of that angle. I need another set for MY Nambo. I regress and retract. They look like shit. You should sell at a deep discount.
 
Only joking pal , I'm going to order a set soon , I just need to decide which bend to go with , are yours as high as they look .
On a good note I managed to win a complete starter kit on ebay for 200 uk pounds :-)

That's sweet! Ya they are pretty high but there very close to my renthal 997's. I like the charmicheal and 997 bends the best, this doesn't feel to much different except for the sweep. I rolled them forward slightly and they seem close. I'm ok with a slightly different bend though as long as it's a little higher than average I can adapt.
 
On a side note one thing I really like about the hand guards is that when I cut my bars down the same length as my old ones(5/8 a side) I don't gain back the thickness of the hand guard frame that bolts into the bar end. In effect I'm gaining almost another 3/4" clearance leaving the bar the same length which is huge for the right stuff we ride
 
On a side note one thing I really like about the hand guards is that when I cut my bars down the same length as my old ones(5/8 a side) I don't gain back the thickness of the hand guard frame that bolts into the bar end. In effect I'm gaining almost another 3/4" clearance leaving the bar the same length which is huge for the right stuff we ride
I would guess it's closer to 1/4'' in "effective width" you gain because the guards take up bar space at the end. That forces you to move your hand grips closer together to open up space at the end for the guards' clamping space. What I'm trying to say is that to run your hand grips the same distance apart you do cut less off the bar ends but overall total width will be close to the same on both with the guards installed.
I run the T.E. KTM low bend which is very close to the stock "HEBO I suppose" bars on my 2011ec250e. They are lower by maybe 1/4'' but the sweep seems the same (probably 10-11 degrees).
 
I'll have to check this evening because the distance seemed greater than 1/4" when I held up my old bars. I think then I'm likely running my controls on each side in an additional 3/8 a side because I did not compensate for the clamp before I cut. Oh well the controls still feel the same and I'm shorter than my old bars so +1 for me :)
 
Trev, I'm looking forward to a ride report on those bars! Also please note any downside to the barkbuster ends touching in the middle? Maybe less flex because of no gap? Hopefully won't matter.
 
It will affect the flex of the bars when flexing straight forward. I think you should do some of the tweaking we talked about before. I left my stock because I like the control of wide bars, and my sit in the middle but i am sure it said you would have to do some work on the bend if you cut the bars???
 
I guess will find out. I pretty sure they'll be fine generally these things are read into far to much for the sake of conversation. I'm not worried about it at all from what I see on my bike but it's still fun to talk about:)
 
get out and ride this weekend I am interested in hearing what you think. I just had some x-rays done on my wrist just to see what is happening hopefully nothing major.
I went out for a ride with out my wrist brace to see what it would be like. I did find that my arm were getting tired a lot faster but still did not have the pain. I really love these bars, but I have never tried flex bars just don.t like the weight.
 
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