What did you do to your Gas Gas today?
- Thread starter Bandit9
- Start date
Fred1956
New member
All the aluminum bits are headed to anodizing shop tomorrow-Triple trees, bar mount, BPD radiator guards, Cycra hand guards, ProTaper foot peg bases, rear brake carrier & disc protector, chain adjuster blocks, Scorpion skid plate, BRP chain guide mount, & lower linkage w/pull rods. Going with a wine red anodize on all those pieces. Hubs and rear sprocket are also red. Forks & swing arm will stay black, along with the wheels- raw aluminum on the fork legs, power valve cover, shifter, radiators & brake pedal. Hoping for a nice balance of Red, black, white & aluminum. Every thing from the swing arm down will be red
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firffighter
New member
Yellow and Black attack!
Did a few small upgrades to the '03 EC200. Put on the black frame guards, black Polisport headlight and Moose barkbusters with Zeta shields.
Also put my WER stabilizer on. Going out today for a short spin.
Was going for this look:
Did a few small upgrades to the '03 EC200. Put on the black frame guards, black Polisport headlight and Moose barkbusters with Zeta shields.
Also put my WER stabilizer on. Going out today for a short spin.
Was going for this look:
desertgasser300
Banned
Yellow and Black attack!
Did a few small upgrades to the '03 EC200. Put on the black frame guards, black Polisport headlight and Moose barkbusters with Zeta shields.
Also put my WER stabilizer on. Going out today for a short spin.
Was going for this look:
The 80's was such an.........interesting time for Christian rock.
firffighter
New member
Ha! The 80's were an.....interesting time. Not my best decade
bkwdc
Gold Level Site Supporter
Nice job Mathias.I out today be plastics with new graphics on and powder coated the swing arm and some new hand guards.
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Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
Yesterday I tested some small mods: Yamaha kicker, Rain/Shine switch and new bars.
Yamaha YZ250F kick start lever and a rain/shine switch.
The kickstart fits nicely, and is easier to use than the GG one since its a bit longer. The risk of ruining my right boot when hitting the footpeg is also smaller since the Yamaha version swings out further.
I placed the rain/shine switch on the cooler hose as can be seen in the picture. However, I can't really say I notice much difference. I didn't ride that much yesterday, so I'll do some more riding until I write it off as useless. I'm not quite shure whether my CDI has two different maps, but it has the wires to connect to the switch, although this switch was not standard on the 2006 EC200 as far as I know.
My battered 2006 OEM bars were replaced with a brand new Renthal Twinwalls. After reading about the twinwall being overly stiff, I chose to remove the crossbar. The new bars received soft Renthal grips and new levers on both master cylinders.
Red twinwall bars
I also leaned out the Lectron one click and reduced the sag somewhat.
All in all, I felt that I had a better bike than before
Yamaha YZ250F kick start lever and a rain/shine switch.
The kickstart fits nicely, and is easier to use than the GG one since its a bit longer. The risk of ruining my right boot when hitting the footpeg is also smaller since the Yamaha version swings out further.
I placed the rain/shine switch on the cooler hose as can be seen in the picture. However, I can't really say I notice much difference. I didn't ride that much yesterday, so I'll do some more riding until I write it off as useless. I'm not quite shure whether my CDI has two different maps, but it has the wires to connect to the switch, although this switch was not standard on the 2006 EC200 as far as I know.
My battered 2006 OEM bars were replaced with a brand new Renthal Twinwalls. After reading about the twinwall being overly stiff, I chose to remove the crossbar. The new bars received soft Renthal grips and new levers on both master cylinders.
Red twinwall bars
I also leaned out the Lectron one click and reduced the sag somewhat.
All in all, I felt that I had a better bike than before
desertgasser300
Banned
Yesterday I tested some small mods: Yamaha kicker, Rain/Shine switch and new bars.
Yamaha YZ250F kick start lever and a rain/shine switch.
The kickstart fits nicely, and is easier to use than the GG one since its a bit longer. The risk of ruining my right boot when hitting the footpeg is also smaller since the Yamaha version swings out further.
I placed the rain/shine switch on the cooler hose as can be seen in the picture. However, I can't really say I notice much difference. I didn't ride that much yesterday, so I'll do some more riding until I write it off as useless. I'm not quite shure whether my CDI has two different maps, but it has the wires to connect to the switch, although this switch was not standard on the 2006 EC200 as far as I know.
My battered 2006 OEM bars were replaced with a brand new Renthal Twinwalls. After reading about the twinwall being overly stiff, I chose to remove the crossbar. The new bars received soft Renthal grips and new levers on both master cylinders.
Red twinwall bars
I also leaned out the Lectron one click and reduced the sag somewhat.
All in all, I felt that I had a better bike than before
One thing I noticed about the cdi switch is that if your bike is not jetted correctly you won't notice much difference. But once you get the jetting dialed in the change in the switch is noticeable. But since you have the Lectron carb not sure what the affects would be?
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
Yeah, I have also read the same, the the jetting must be close to spot on for the rain/shine difference to be noticed.
I think the Lectron as such makes no differece to the question about the switch. Its more a qustion of a correct jetted carb or not, Lectron or Keihin should not matter.
But in my opinion my Lectron is quite good as it is. I haven't tinkered with it at all, just ran it as it was received.
As I said I have now gone one click leaner, and might try another click or two later.
But the question remains; do I really have two maps in my CDI? Is the fact that I have two "spare" wires coming out of it enough to prove it? Or is there a part number that I have to check against?
As I said, I didn't really ride it that much with the switch yet, so I guess I'll need some more experience before I can know for sure how much / if any change is noticeable.
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
Update: The switch makes a difference. No doubt about that. I was at the local MX track yesterday. The switch makes a noticeable difference under such circumstances.
Case closed.
Phaeton
New member
Added bar risers made bolts for this
Changed to 48 rear sprocket
Removed Black from Clutch Cover
Added Rim Protectors with GASGAS and Logo
Changed Clutch Fluid. (that was messy)
Added Hand Guards Zeta then add pro bend side guards to them
New Fork Protector Decals for YZF 450 with GASGAS logo
New Throttle cover
New Grips
Filled Bars with Silicone to reduce vibration
Repacked Silencer
Checked and replaced some bolts
Changed to 48 rear sprocket
Removed Black from Clutch Cover
Added Rim Protectors with GASGAS and Logo
Changed Clutch Fluid. (that was messy)
Added Hand Guards Zeta then add pro bend side guards to them
New Fork Protector Decals for YZF 450 with GASGAS logo
New Throttle cover
New Grips
Filled Bars with Silicone to reduce vibration
Repacked Silencer
Checked and replaced some bolts
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
With the 200cc and 250cc engines, the cdi switch primarily gives one more usable torque at lower rpms and will let the engine rev out much better and longer on top.
With the 300cc engine, the switch makes much more difference.
Here are my explanations:
a. In the rainy setting, the engine is an abrupt beast down low (jerky like a 450 4-stroke), but is more controllable during open throttle application during race type conditions in the tight woods, because it keeps the bike from coming unglued from the ground as the rpms rise (because it flattens out power up top and keeps things under control). On my 2006 DE300, I would use the rainy setting to race in the tight woods. In normal trail riding conditions, I only used the rainy setting in the tight woods when I was caught off guard by a gnarly hill climb or uphill rock garden where I really needed the extra low end grunt.
b. One the 300, I ended up using the sunny (mx) setting most of the time. With the incredible torque of this engine, the low rpm power is more than adequate for most situations and still soft enough to allow me to ride more smoothly through the tight single track trails. At the same time, the sunny setting will allow me to carry a wheelie much longer than the rainy settiing; which makes mud holes, gullies, and water crossings much cleaner by keeping the front wheel in the air.
When riding mountain singetrack on the 2011 250, I'm usually in the rainy setting; as the low end torque is much less stress on my wrists, arms, and balancing ability.
Anyway, that is my $.02 worth. I hope the input proves helpful for someone.
Good Riding to All Y'all!
Jim
.
My new stuff...
Well, I've been loving my new bike!
So the other day I go on a 50 mile or so loop with some friends, I'm on the return road to the car, I'm just cruising up the road, minding my own business when the bike just dies. Initially I thought it was out of gas but it wouldn't restart. Well, long story short, the cooling system was completely dry. I'm not sure how it happenned but on tear down I can see where the inner o-ring failed for some reason and I must have burned all my coolant.
Anyway, just needs a top end. Cylinder looks good and parts are in the mail. So I figured while it's apart I'll cut the head. I have a friend who has been building turbo snowmobiles for 20+ years, so he ordered me parts through one of his accounts and he is cutting the squish on the head.
Notice the plug turned gold from the heat.
Wrist pin.
While I am in there I did a billet impeller from checkpoint. (Great service and fast shipping BTW)
...and I ditched the t-stat and used one of these little inline coolers as a fitting. I'm not sure they do anything but it's cooler looking than a brass fitting.
I also updated the lighting a little. I rode a little a few weeks ago in the dark and was surprised how terrible the lighting is. So I picked up a cheap ebay led bike light.
I cut the back off, gutted the driver out of it since it has multiple settings as well as strobe and I didn't want that. I bought a driver from ledsupply.com and wired that in. The light press fit into the stock openning perfectly. I just through a washer under the stock screw to help hold it in place then rtv'ed the back.
It's not as bright as I would like, and the housing barely gets warm so I will probably pick up a stronger driver for it but it is waaay brighter than the stock headlight.
Oh, and on the subject of the rain/shine switch, I can feel a difference, but I wind up riding it on shine all the time, so I removed the switch and just plugged the ends from the cdi together.
Well, I've been loving my new bike!
So the other day I go on a 50 mile or so loop with some friends, I'm on the return road to the car, I'm just cruising up the road, minding my own business when the bike just dies. Initially I thought it was out of gas but it wouldn't restart. Well, long story short, the cooling system was completely dry. I'm not sure how it happenned but on tear down I can see where the inner o-ring failed for some reason and I must have burned all my coolant.
Anyway, just needs a top end. Cylinder looks good and parts are in the mail. So I figured while it's apart I'll cut the head. I have a friend who has been building turbo snowmobiles for 20+ years, so he ordered me parts through one of his accounts and he is cutting the squish on the head.
Notice the plug turned gold from the heat.
Wrist pin.
While I am in there I did a billet impeller from checkpoint. (Great service and fast shipping BTW)
...and I ditched the t-stat and used one of these little inline coolers as a fitting. I'm not sure they do anything but it's cooler looking than a brass fitting.
I also updated the lighting a little. I rode a little a few weeks ago in the dark and was surprised how terrible the lighting is. So I picked up a cheap ebay led bike light.
I cut the back off, gutted the driver out of it since it has multiple settings as well as strobe and I didn't want that. I bought a driver from ledsupply.com and wired that in. The light press fit into the stock openning perfectly. I just through a washer under the stock screw to help hold it in place then rtv'ed the back.
It's not as bright as I would like, and the housing barely gets warm so I will probably pick up a stronger driver for it but it is waaay brighter than the stock headlight.
Oh, and on the subject of the rain/shine switch, I can feel a difference, but I wind up riding it on shine all the time, so I removed the switch and just plugged the ends from the cdi together.
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