What did you do to your Gas Gas today?

Thanks
I use a KYB SSS fork from a 2007 or 2008 YZ250, with original GasGas wheel and the onlins 888 shock


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Covered the plastic on my 300 which is being rebuilt.

It's a bit like me - looks better from a distance.:)
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On Saturday, my friend Magne and myself did our first race of the year. Both on Gasgas, his 2019 250 an my own 2015 200. Here in Norway, it seems like Gasgas sales are good, there are some new Gasgas owners and bikes at every meeting now.


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A trio of 18 and 19 models



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I was completely exhausted after two hours in the wet snow.


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En route to exhaustion


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Magne in somewhat better shape than me.
 
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You Norweigans are a hearty bunch:) (Sorry for the incorrect spelling) Good to hear that GG is doing well there.

RB
 
In the past 8 weeks Penelope, my 2018 XC300, has received:

XC360 bar mounts. Extremely pleased with this purchase, again. The GG fit isn't what I want but the performance of the part make up for it's limitation.

Billet water pump impeller
After seeing the OEM one and how it's built compared to an Austrian one I almost closed the cover and not installing this. The GG OEM part isn't going to overheat and fold like the Austrian one. I bought the part though so I installed it, no measurable difference compared to stock. I would not buy this again.

RK tech billet head.
What a huge difference straight out of the box. I wish I would have bought it right out of the gate so I wouldn't have spent so much time chasing jetting and engine noises.

Rekluse Core Manual # RMS7017001, newly released by Rekluse. Specific part number for the 2018/2019 bikes, not the one from the 2017 with an extra spacer gasket. Don't have enough time on it to warrant an opinion yet, however the Rekluse center hub has significantly more oil passages than the OEM center hub I removed. Hopefully it'll help & I won't lose more inner frictions. I can't for the life of me understand the passages on the OEM hub. At one point there's probably 1/3 of the circumference of the OEM hub that has ZERO oil passages drilled in it.

Bullet Proof Designs chain block guard & TM designs KTM "Factory" chain block.

I had the TM chain block in my parts box from a bike I got rid of before the OEM block needed replaced. I was installing the BPD chain block guard and the GG OEM chain block is pretty light duty imo so I figured I'd go ahead and install the TM why I had the thing apart. TM chain block is a KTM part number and the Fit was perfect.

BPD swing arm guard. This is also a KTM part number. The swingarm tab dimensions are the same as KTM so the tabs align properly. Unfortunately the GG and KTM swingarm are not shaped the same and I found that this guard doesn't fit the GG as well as it has on the last 2 Austrian bikes I've had it on. The bosses on the guard do not contact the swingarm without shimming and this puts all the lateral load on the threads for the cap screws you have to drill and tap into the swingarm. As delivered I feel the BPD part only offers marginal protection from an impact to the forward swingarm tab. With proper shimming of the boss to dissipate lateral loads across the surface of the swingarm it offers appropriate protection from impacts.
If I get another GG I'll install it again.

GP front axle lever. I don't even know why I bought this, but after installing it and changing the front wheel the last 3 times I'm glad I did. I've lived without one the last 5 years but I've also bought a new ktm axle and a couple axle nuts after damaging the axle nut threads removing them in haste. Having this lever should eliminate the threat of that happening again as I hastily fix a flat, change brake pads at an enduro restet etc.
 
In the past 8 weeks Penelope, my 2018 XC300, has received:

XC360 bar mounts. Extremely pleased with this purchase, again. The GG fit isn't what I want but the performance of the part make up for it's limitation.

I am working to get mine to work so the forks clear the lower mount, I have the X-trig clamp that comes on the GP, note the x-trig clamp you buy from X-trig is different from the one on the GP and the forks will clear the Mako mount.

RK tech billet head.
What a huge difference straight out of the box. I wish I would have bought it right out of the gate so I wouldn't have spent so much time chasing jetting and engine noises.
I have done the same where did you end up with jetting? I have been chasing it forever even with the stock head, until I found an air leak, the wonderful engine assemblers in Spain managed to put the gasket in upside down backward. This blocks off about a 1/8 of the intake when wicked up it was drawing air in leaning out the mix. So new top end this weekend and tried some different jetting and had huge improvements.
Just wondering where you ended up.
 
Wimpy,

I had quit chasing needles already and slapped on a lectron that I had from an old project. Lectron sorted it out and set it to GG specs. I played with it and never got rid of the pipe bang and lean spots coming off throttle.

I swapped the head and the impeller as soon as the motor was cool enough to touch after a snow ride. I started it up in the same fuel, settings and conditions a few minutes later and it was noticeably more crisp without the strange noises (picture bad fuel noises but my fuel was good) and pipe bang was gone.

It's been cold and either 18" of snow or too sloppy here the last couple weeks so I haven't got to really put a load on it for long enough to get a good plug read. The times I have got her opened with adequate traction I liked what I felt and heard.

I'm not read up enough on the triples that you're talking about but I'll look into it. I'm considering pulling my mounts off and milling a 3mm deep, 5mm high relief into the bases so I can move my forks up in the clamps. Right now they are maxed at the first line on the tubes before the fork caps make contact with the Mako bar mount bases.
 
Spooned on a new Sedona 907 on the rear to replace the Shinko 525. Also did DP rear pads, added a spring on the the pad retaining pin, and my own home made brake cooler that goes between the brake piston and pad.
 
Preseason maint

Yesterday I spent a little time derusting the pipe on my 18 300, see pics. Lime Away Scotch Brite and steel wool. It's back to acceptable looking. New front brake pads. Disassembled and greased swingarm and linkage, I am happy to report that there was still a reasonable amount of grease in them all from new at 66 hrs. Found a couple of connectors I missed on my cleaning Dielectric grease mission recently. Picking up exhaust Orings and fork oil today,hope to get the forks resealed and back on tonight. Finally riding weather soon.
 

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Yesterday I spent a little time derusting the pipe on my 18 300, see pics. Lime Away Scotch Brite and steel wool. It's back to acceptable looking. New front brake pads. Disassembled and greased swingarm and linkage, I am happy to report that there was still a reasonable amount of grease in them all from new at 66 hrs. Found a couple of connectors I missed on my cleaning Dielectric grease mission recently. Picking up exhaust Orings and fork oil today,hope to get the forks resealed and back on tonight. Finally riding weather soon.

How the heck do you get a 2018 pipe to get that rusty? haha. I've never accomplished that level of "patina". Good job on the cleanup.


I checked the mail for parts today... couple more boxes and I'll start my spring rebuild. Got out for a ride in some poplar tree hills the other day, I'm still mostly snowbound.
 
How the heck do you get a 2018 pipe to get that rusty? haha. I've never accomplished that level of "patina". Good job on the cleanup.


I asked the dealer the same thing. I take reasonable but not anal care of the bike, he (and GG rep) pretty much said, yeah it's normal. It' a GG built pipe not FMF on the XC GP.

I will hose it down with WD40 after every wash this year and see if it helps.
 
How the heck do you get a 2018 pipe to get that rusty? haha. I've never accomplished that level of "patina". Good job on the cleanup.

Live in the east! Most of my pipes look similar. Even FMF stuff..
Clay then water then clay then water then a hillclimb will quickly do that to a pipe!
 
New piston put in at 100 hours. Cylinder looked very good still, cross hatching visible & still had that rough feeling after a wipe out. Old rings mesaured in at 0.55mm.
Didn't actually even look at reeds or bother cleaning PV as it had nice smooth action still & not too much spooge in there plus ran out of time & wanted to ride it the following day. New Meteor piston ran 3 hours without lunching itself so all seems good. New blue AS3 silicone rad hoses fitted up nicely & ditches the thermostat.
 
Decided it was time to junk the knackered left hand switch gear. The bike's not road legal so I was only using the kill switch. Also, the switch block was interfering with the movement of the clutch lever.

I've replaced it with a simple Kill Switch and wired the headlight so it's permanently on high beam.

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Much neater... :)

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