Well I don't know I guess it is called a needle jet. I have also heard it called an idle jet.
It is removable and that is how Rob got confused. I have not heard of anyone needing to change one though.
2010 EC300 Factory Jetting Specs - WTF?
- Thread starter JP4
- Start date
Well I don't know I guess it is called a needle jet. I have also heard it called an idle jet.
It is removable and that is how Rob got confused. I have not heard of anyone needing to change one though.
rgranger
Gold Level Site Supporter
Actually I think that I was confused long before trying to jet this carb...more or less a natural state since 50...
bchatt
Bronze Level Site Supporter
He he +1. The older I get, the more I discover I don't know!
Krieg
New member
I'll be 50 in May and I couldn't agree more with your assessment!
I'll sometimes go upstairs 3 times before remembering why I needed to go upstairs. 
iancp5
New member
I'll be 50 in May and I couldn't agree more with your assessment!
I used to worry about that but my wife who is 15 years younger tells me she does it too. When I think about it I seem to remember doing that when I was 18! I often find myself in another room wondering why I'm there. I like to think it's a sign of an active and restless mind rather than senility.
Vindicator
New member
The stock needle N1EF is comparable to the NOZF (JD does not have the N1EF). We can see that the N3CH is quite leaner than stock's and the leanest of them all. If you move N1EF to clip #2 you get the same effect as N3CH clip #3. Comparing to the other needles I see the stock being too rich on bottom, that might be an issue, but I think it's better than the rest close to WOT, we don't want to be short on gas here.
I used N8RG on my pumpkin 300 on very cold days and liked it, might be an option as well.
Last edited:
Idle and pilot jet are the same thing. If you removed a jet from the carb that was marked as #85 it is the starting jet. Its purpose is only for initial starting. It has no affect on jetting after the engine is running. This jet is only about 3/8" long. A pilot is about 1-1/4" long.
Krieg
New member
I thought that was on the FCR's and CR's only?
thanks
vindicator, thanks for posting that! i've been going through fits trying to find out just what the stock N1EF compares to, and what to change to when the weather heats up or i head to the mountains. looks like the N3CH should work for what i need.
john01, just out of curiosity, was the difference with the CCK THAT huge? i saw where you were running your stock needle at similar altitude and slightly colder temps than me, interested to hear where you felt most of the difference was, and how it felt switching from one map to the other. so far, i'm really happy with the way mine runs across the range, but my needle is on the #1 clip, so i can't really lean it out for hotter or higher...
vindicator, thanks for posting that! i've been going through fits trying to find out just what the stock N1EF compares to, and what to change to when the weather heats up or i head to the mountains. looks like the N3CH should work for what i need.
john01, just out of curiosity, was the difference with the CCK THAT huge? i saw where you were running your stock needle at similar altitude and slightly colder temps than me, interested to hear where you felt most of the difference was, and how it felt switching from one map to the other. so far, i'm really happy with the way mine runs across the range, but my needle is on the #1 clip, so i can't really lean it out for hotter or higher...
Yes in a word. We thought the bike pulled good with the stock N1ef but installing the CCK really woke the bike up. It pulls quicker and stronger from the bottom to the top with the midrange being very snappy. The pull feels snappy more willing to rev and pick ups speed quicker. My son just left to ride it on a MX track so I'll post his impressions when he gets back. I think it's going to make the quick jumps right after the tight turns better. We don't use the rain setting at all; it feels like what it does slow things down. We haven't tried it with the CCK so I'll see what it feels like with it.
Got a needle that I can't find anywhere running in the bike right now. It is an N3HG that the dealer gave me when I bought the bike, a 2010 GG EC300.
I know from research that the "G" is leaner than the F as far as diameter on the straight section. It is still not clear what the 3H is, maybe 3 for taper and H for L1? I've been reading confliciting info on this.
However, the bike does run better with it on clip 3 than the N1EF did on any clip position.
I have it set up now :
40 pilot
N3HG on 3rd groove
178 main
air screw 1 turn out
43:1 Repsol 2T sintetico
I have a bunch of needles coming in all different tapers to try out in a few days.
I know from research that the "G" is leaner than the F as far as diameter on the straight section. It is still not clear what the 3H is, maybe 3 for taper and H for L1? I've been reading confliciting info on this.
However, the bike does run better with it on clip 3 than the N1EF did on any clip position.
I have it set up now :
40 pilot
N3HG on 3rd groove
178 main
air screw 1 turn out
43:1 Repsol 2T sintetico
I have a bunch of needles coming in all different tapers to try out in a few days.
When I got the bike it had an N1EF in it on clip 1. The needle the dealer gave me along with the CHN which I probably won't use says N3HG. I did a search too and could only find an N3EG at best. I can't find an N1HG either
The needle is silver and light weight like the N1EF, the N is capital, the 3 looks almost like a "B" kind of like they stamped it twice, maybe with a 1 then a 3 over the 1 as the 3 sits a little to the right of the 1. The H is clear and the G is clear, both capital letters.
I think the H is a long L1 and I know the G is 2.715mm diameter, one needle leaner than the F diameter. The crossover needle diameter on the Sudco PWK 3 letter single taper code chart would be an "L" at 2.715mm.
I have several needles coming to the house over the next week and I will test them all in my 300. I love to tinker!! I got my old KDX running very sweet after doing the same tinkering even with the RB mod.
If I find a needle in the stack that I like better, I wouldn't be opposed to sending you the needle to experiment with. Side by side, it is clearly different than the N1EF, in the fact that the 1st taper on the N3HG starts much further down, like the equivelant of 4 clip positions. The taper is also steeper. Where the second taper starts it is not a steep as the N1HG needle.
The bike runs better with the N3HG on the 3rd clip, starts hot or cold easily, lugs down well, and responds with the flick of the wrist. It does still four stroke a little, but it is not blubbery and as soon as you move you wrist off of the 1/8 throttle area it responds well. I'll put it this way, I am not a super fast guy. However I was able to pull 3rd and 4 th gear out of the corners from waaaay down low and on either map setting too, with NO clutch. Maybe this is normal or how it's supposed to run. I ordered the LTR cover to add even more bottom! Mwuaaahaaaaahaa!!
N3HG clip3
178 main
40 pilot
screw is a 7/8 out now
#7 stock slide
I did notice that the pilot screw vibrated out a tad during the ride, maybe 1/4 turn. I was going to put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place.
The needle is silver and light weight like the N1EF, the N is capital, the 3 looks almost like a "B" kind of like they stamped it twice, maybe with a 1 then a 3 over the 1 as the 3 sits a little to the right of the 1. The H is clear and the G is clear, both capital letters.
I think the H is a long L1 and I know the G is 2.715mm diameter, one needle leaner than the F diameter. The crossover needle diameter on the Sudco PWK 3 letter single taper code chart would be an "L" at 2.715mm.
I have several needles coming to the house over the next week and I will test them all in my 300. I love to tinker!! I got my old KDX running very sweet after doing the same tinkering even with the RB mod.
If I find a needle in the stack that I like better, I wouldn't be opposed to sending you the needle to experiment with. Side by side, it is clearly different than the N1EF, in the fact that the 1st taper on the N3HG starts much further down, like the equivelant of 4 clip positions. The taper is also steeper. Where the second taper starts it is not a steep as the N1HG needle.
The bike runs better with the N3HG on the 3rd clip, starts hot or cold easily, lugs down well, and responds with the flick of the wrist. It does still four stroke a little, but it is not blubbery and as soon as you move you wrist off of the 1/8 throttle area it responds well. I'll put it this way, I am not a super fast guy. However I was able to pull 3rd and 4 th gear out of the corners from waaaay down low and on either map setting too, with NO clutch. Maybe this is normal or how it's supposed to run. I ordered the LTR cover to add even more bottom! Mwuaaahaaaaahaa!!
N3HG clip3
178 main
40 pilot
screw is a 7/8 out now
#7 stock slide
I did notice that the pilot screw vibrated out a tad during the ride, maybe 1/4 turn. I was going to put a dab of silicone on it to keep it in place.
I took a 10th look at the needle I believe was an N3HG. I now can see under a better eye that it is an N8HG.
I reset my jetting today as I installed the LTR powervalve cover.
Here is what I rode today:
N1EF 2nd clip from top
42 pilot jet
1 turn out on air screw
178 main jet
LTR cover
GG stock pipe
Lowered float 3mm (no more pissing!)
Bike ran great, however it did not need choke upon cold start and smoked until it was warm. I think I can go back to the 40 pilot under our weather, 75 degrees outside.
The engine seemed to have more power everywhere both on bottom and on top. I attribute the bottom to the LTR cover and maybe the jetting, the top to the jetting. This bike is friggin fast now! After a 20 minute ride, mostly not on the pipe I got a little gooey spooge out of the back of the pipe. Not dripping, but more like little black splatters of spooge.
One thing I did notice is how smooth the motor transitioned onto the pipe. With the stock PV cover and the N8HG needle it hit hard. This is smoother. I have yet to get my needle order in the mail but I will try the CCK first thing to see if that smooths it even more.
I reset my jetting today as I installed the LTR powervalve cover.
Here is what I rode today:
N1EF 2nd clip from top
42 pilot jet
1 turn out on air screw
178 main jet
LTR cover
GG stock pipe
Lowered float 3mm (no more pissing!)
Bike ran great, however it did not need choke upon cold start and smoked until it was warm. I think I can go back to the 40 pilot under our weather, 75 degrees outside.
The engine seemed to have more power everywhere both on bottom and on top. I attribute the bottom to the LTR cover and maybe the jetting, the top to the jetting. This bike is friggin fast now! After a 20 minute ride, mostly not on the pipe I got a little gooey spooge out of the back of the pipe. Not dripping, but more like little black splatters of spooge.
One thing I did notice is how smooth the motor transitioned onto the pipe. With the stock PV cover and the N8HG needle it hit hard. This is smoother. I have yet to get my needle order in the mail but I will try the CCK first thing to see if that smooths it even more.
