2013 ec250r

[Jakobi]

They were cleaned before being ridden hard. Not before they had a quick loop of the yard though which made it pretty aparent that they needed it. Back in particular. It might be hitting the frame as even stepping on the pedal it doesn't want to lock up or slide like the other bike. Maybe its that there is tread on the tyre

Front is exactly what I was going to do (same as we do with Yamahas). Ditching the switch definitely takes some of the mush out of the lever.

 

[Moto7man]

I have the galfer wave rotors on both my 2010 and 2013. The rear brake feels like its just not biting at the disc. Possibly still burning the assembly grease/oil off the disk. I have given them a clean. The front is more to do with actual feel at the lever. The brakes still work quite well, but the lever has a soft progressive feel rather than a very firm bite.

The front brake on my 2011 has the "firm bite." It is a one finger brake.It still has the brake light switch. One of my buddies that rides a KTM was helping me load the GASGAS onto a trailer, he grabbed the front brake and it stopped so quick that it threw him forward. He was surprised and he told me "My KTM can't stop like that!" Imho, that is a real advantage in tight woods.

 

[Jakobi]

The front brake on my 2011 has the "firm bite." It is a one finger brake.It still has the brake light switch. One of my buddies that rides a KTM was helping me load the GASGAS onto a trailer, he grabbed the front brake and it stopped so quick that it threw him forward. He was surprised and he told me "My KTM can't stop like that!" Imho, that is a real advantage in tight woods.

Same as my 2010. I'm not complaining or saying either is any better than the other. Just noting some comparisons.

 

[Jakobi]

Had a little more tinker time today.

Pulled the RHS footpeg and put on the stocker from the 2010. Definitely a poor casting of the pegs and not the chasis. I ground some material back from the stop section and reinstalled and its a much better fit. Not 100% perfect, but an improvement. Will likely ride it as is now until I order a new set.

Went over the rear brake setup. Confirmed that I could get the lever to contact the frame simply by pushing down on it with my bare hand. No doubt that stepping on it would have had it doing the same and causing the poor performance. Adjusted the lever so it sits nice and high which is just above flush with the pegs in the higher position. Will test ride and confirm, but pretty sure that was it.

Hand guards on. Just went with the stock Gas Gas brush guards. I'm happy enough with these.. As long as you watch out for trees. Also went over all the levers and put some electrical tape underneath them before snugging them up. Have them tight enough to hold their own, but will move if hit. Sure saves the levers, and definitely saves the master cylinders.

Bar pad purchased and installed. Looks perdy!

Secondary kill switch on the bars, and wires run back around past RH rad. Still need to remove the tank to finish wiring it in (to earth and loom/CDI).

I've also got a niggle with the rear shock spring groaning on rebound. Have double checked and rear brake line was touching, and has been moved away for clearance. Still does it. Nothing else making contact. Definitely the spring - linkages have been greased and not binding. It has done this from new. Thoughts?

She looks sexy! Can't wait to get it dirty!

 

[Bandit9]

I really like your subframe

 

[Jakobi]

Took the 2013 250R on its virgin busting ride!

Running the stock springs and clickers somewhere around the middle. I didn't stop to change anything all day so thats a pretty positive thing. Very ridable but still room for improvement. I've still got a squeak coming from the rear spring on rebound. I'm not sure what it is, but will be checking it out.

Engine wise, have the 8mm spacer on the PV, running AS1.5 40 N3CW#3 178 and I think if anything it could have been a touch fluffy on the main still. Bottom end was perfect with loads of grunt and clean running.

The 48 tooth rear sprocket is too tall for this little engine. It'll pull ok in the higher gears but has a tendancy to drop on/off the pipe if you're not ringing its neck everywhere. Big steep hills in second really dragged it down and lead to some clutch abuse.

The clutch is nice. Good feel. No squarking! even under heavy abuse. Cooling system was good. No boil overs while the 4T's were having a spit.

Brakes do feel good, but I want more from the front still. Back was resolved by lifting it a bit to stop it catching on the frame.

The FMF Q is a spooge machine. Biggest dribble ever! I'd like to get a turbine core for this, but I may just buy a new one for my 2010 and then modify the other into a shorty with some custom mounts (where the old ones have worn out).

Thats all. She's sweet. I enjoy the extra clearance. She's a touch more stable in the turns and the slops, but I also got her giving a little head shake in the open stuff. Overall very happy! and even happier got through the initial ride without binning it. The height is not an issue when geared up in the bush with lots of variation in ground. Always somewhere for a foot to go.

 

[Jakobi]

 

[Simmo737]

Looking nice jake, touch more fettling ant you will be struggling to ride the 10 I reckon! Nice report.

 

[Simmo737]

Ps drop the forks 5mm, no more shake, especially with heavier springs.

 

[Jakobi]

I'm not sure what rate springs to end up running up front. It felt quite good on the last ride running PFP at 2.5 turns in, C14, R 12 (from memory). I didn't feel the need to adjust it at all. Back end felt ok, but did kick on the same things that generally kick me around on the other bike too. Sag figures seemed pretty good, but LSC maybe a bit soft. I could get it to bottom in the G outs/base of steep hills when hitting them aggressively.

On the 2010 running .46 and 5.6 rates and they are firm, but compliant. Actually have the shock out of the 2010 for a revalve again now, so will be riding it while the heads out getting milled. From there it could be a tough show sharing the load between the two!

What silencer options do I have for the 2013? Not overly stoked with the huge FMF.

 

[Simmo737]

I like the stealth, I can live with spooge, interested where you'll go with the valving, I'm thinking of doing a bladder conversion.

Looking forward to your results from the head mod.

 

[Jakobi]

With the forks I'll record whats in there, but from all accounts I've heard they run a bleed shim in the rebound stack which will most definitely be coming out.

On the shock I'll likely just go up a spring rate first and see what effect that has. Then think about pulling it down to check the stacks and maybe shuffle a few shims around the 20hr mark.

I'm still not sure what direction I'll go with the head mod. From what I can tell the cylinder is mounted on a single 0.5mm gasket. First port of call will be measuring the squish and checking where the piston sits in relation to the exhaust port. I'm thinking I'll probably try and get around 1.2mm squish clearance and 13:1 UCCR with the single gasket. This gives a little buffer each side if I want to drop or raise the cylinder a touch more down the track.

I won't buy another silencer until after I've got the head milled down and put some time on it.

 

[wa_ndro]

Go the cannon from go fasters - great quality, small, welded mounts and cheap. Just measured my squish today - 2.75 mm from factory - off to TSP it goes.

 

[Jakobi]

Thats huge. Hows the port timing look? Base gasket stack?? Is that on a 2012/2013?? New cylinder with the G stamped on the side?

 

[wa_ndro]

Thats huge. Hows the port timing look? Base gasket stack?? Is that on a 2012/2013?? New cylinder with the G stamped on the side?

2013 300r. Ex port timing perfect, not changing the base gaskets, has the G. 1000kms on it - head is like new still, only slight carboning on the piston, hasn't wasted a plug - the one in it is a nice golden color. Gotta remember they sell em in oz as a road/trail so they prob go conservative on the set up, can't wait to get the head done, sick of gettin roosted by 4 fittys!
P.S - get that silencer! Seen a lot of mates stuff round with silencers on 2 strokes, the cannons rock, as long as ur not concerned with noise/emissions

 

[Jakobi]

When I say how's the port timing, specifically where does the piston sit in relation to the exhaust port? above/flush??

2.5+mm is beyond conservative. Its crude. I'd be interested to see what your compression ratio is at. On my 250, the new one blows a tad more than my modified engine which was set up for 14:1 with a single 0.5mm gasket.

 

[wa_ndro]

Ex port is flush with top of piston at the bottom of the stroke so I'm not changing the base gaskets. I have heard from a few people that 2.5mm is normal for gassers from the factory. Haven't checked comp

 

[Jakobi]

Thats great if the new cylinders are a better fit. With my existing 2010 cyls (both 300 and 250) I've needed 1.3mm of base gaskets to get the port timing flush at bdc.

I'd love to go and pull the head off the 2013 model right now but I have the 2010 pulled down and need to have some new tabs welded on the silencer. Would like to keep at least one bike whole incase if I'm riding over the next 3 days. I also have a spare S3 head with stock (silver insert) in the event that I don't like the effect of the head mods. I know that won't be the case though

I've still got a groan coming from the rear shock too. Most annoying. I'll likely pull it and throw the stiffer spring on while the head is off.

 

[wa_ndro]

Thats great if the new cylinders are a better fit. With my existing 2010 cyls (both 300 and 250) I've needed 1.3mm of base gaskets to get the port timing flush at bdc.

I'd love to go and pull the head off the 2013 model right now but I have the 2010 pulled down and need to have some new tabs welded on the silencer. Would like to keep at least one bike whole incase if I'm riding over the next 3 days. I also have a spare S3 head with stock (silver insert) in the event that I don't like the effect of the head mods. I know that won't be the case though

I've still got a groan coming from the rear shock too. Most annoying. I'll likely pull it and throw the stiffer spring on while the head is off.

I'm 90kg and put a 5.8 in mine, getting about 95mm sag with only the slightest amount of pre load, could prob go a 5.6, but the bike handles fine

 

[Jakobi]

Yeah. I pulled the shock this arv. Groan is likely the spring rubbing on the plastic guide of the shock. Both show signs of contact. Checked my old 888 spring and its got significant wear in the same region, just did so silently. The way I had set it up on the stock 5.2 rate spring was 10mm preload to give around 98mm race sag and it appeared to handle well. If anything I feel I could even run 100mm.

I have a 5.4 rate here already that will fit so I'll throw that on with around 7-8mm preload and see where I'm at. I'm semi tempted to pull the shock down and check the stacks on it while its out, but I think I should wait and see how it handles for a bit on the right spring before going any further.

Will double check float height at the same time. I've noticed the fuel turns yellow if I let it sit for a while so I'm thinking either the fuel line is a bit perished internally, or the floats and bowl will be a bit gummed up. I'll give it all a good clean.

Noticed a few less spanners required to work on the 2013 model, which is nice.

In other news the force rad guards don't have the thread in the lower mount like the older ones, just an opening and use the same plastic retainer/gromet setup the stock grill uses. Problem is the retainer pin to stop it rotating isn't included when you use the force so need to probe a screw driver in to stop it turning when doing it up and undoing. Of course I noticed this after binding it into the outer row of the rad fins. No leaks, but shits me none the less. Have emailed force, but doubt I'll even get a reply. Time will tell.