2013 ec250r

I threw a bolt through the bottom of my rad shroud and cable tied the pieces together.
 
Hey Jake. I agree on the two piece rads shrouds. Stink
Dessertgasser has a good fix. I think it is in the forum here somewhere??


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Yeah yeah! I was thinking I might just drill and ziptie them together if they become a problem. Stopping the top plug from popping out of the gromet might take some engineering too. I can only see it getting worse as it wears.

Washed her up, and then pulled the plug. She's a shade lighter than I'd like so I'll definitely go back to my last known specs. It looks like she's going to spooge regardless so I'd rather jet it for max grunt. Fuel economy.. I haven't measured but after 75-80kms it looks to be about level with the subframe. IE should piss in a 100kms from a tank.
 
Some rad braces bow the shrouds enough to mess with the top peg/grommet interface, so check that. You might also try to find some higher durometer, tighter fitting grommets. It turns out the heat from the rad softens up the stockers and allows them to pop out at the most inopportune times.

The 2013s that we got in the US had the 50T stock, and that's been the go-to rear sprocket for what we ride for years. Fewer 1-2s, more 2-3s ...
 
twowheels said:
Some rad braces bow the shrouds enough to mess with the top peg/grommet interface, so check that. You might also try to find some higher durometer, tighter fitting grommets. It turns out the heat from the rad softens up the stockers and allows them to pop out at the most inopportune times.

The 2013s that we got in the US had the 50T stock, and that's been the go-to rear sprocket for what we ride for years. Fewer 1-2s, more 2-3s ...
Click to expand...



I threw some tighter grommets in that i picked up from the hardware store jake. After reports straight away with the shrouds being a problem you would think they would have eliminated the problem at first chance?
 
nato said:
I threw some tighter grommets in that i picked up from the hardware store jake. After reports straight away with the shrouds being a problem you would think they would have eliminated the problem at first chance?
Click to expand...

Good thinkin Nath. I'll do the same. Might even have a couple spares kicking around here at home.
 
I also have a zip tie that runs from the lower mount to my rad guard, Supringsly hidden as there is already a hole there.
 
There appears to be quite a few minor upgrades. Mostly just standardised fasteners. Not quite as many tools required.

I like that the subframe flips up nice and easily, and its a bonus that you don't need to cut the zipties and remove the side covers/caliper in order to do so. Less tools at the top of the subframe too. Less tools on the linkage. One issue is it takes some handling to line up the lower subframe bolts. I imagine it would be easy to strip the M6 threads out if not using some caution.

Airbox. I think I prefer the 2010 setup. More sealed around the sides and edges, and breathes better from under the seat. Thats before you get to the actual filter seating. Much easier to visually check the 2010. The extra long lug on the filter frame of the 2013 does aid in clipping it into position. I'd hate to have a battery stuffed into that airbox too. Not much volume as is.

Engine wise. Cylinder wasn't removed for total insp. Head remains the same. Feels good to ride, not as vibey as the 2010, but I think most the vibes I get with that are from the pipe o rings wearing. I wonder what effect the upper head mount has on it, if any?

Plastics. Fitment seems about same. I never really had an issues with the old girl. The new one I've had to elongate the hole in the fuel tank where it mounts to the frame as it wouldn't quite align. Not sure why because it did originally. Not a fan of the extra 3mm allen screws required to remove the tank. I'm happy that the airbox sides don't get as torn up by the boots as the 2010 model.

Ergos. I prefer the 2013 geometry. The higher pegs/ground clearance definitely outweighs the slightly taller seat height. Also feels easier to get up over the handlebars and maintain the attack position. I have a feeling the underbar steering damper on the 2010 is partly responsible for the difference in feel up front. Everything else has been setup the same. G2 quick pull throttle, T3 throttle cable, Renthal twinwalls with cross member removed and angled inline with the forks, pillow top grips. When driving I don't get that unfamiliar feeling like I do when jumping on a ktm. I feel very much at home still.

Suspension. I've put a lot of dollars and hours into the 2010 with TTX both ends, and then fine tuned to the point where I'm very confident on it. First ride on the 2013 I felt pretty good, however after changing the rear spring up a rate its not quite where it needs to be. Felt harsh in the rocks, but still navigated the single trails quite well. I've got to do some more work on them before I get to a point where they'll be on par. Forks on the zokes are pretty good out of the box, but some heavier springs and valving tweaks will take them to another level.

I don't know if I'd say the 2013 is worlds better.. but it has some improvements for sure! I still think I got a bargain with it, but at the same time its costing a bit in time and setup to get it dialled in to the level that I have become used to.
 
I certainly noticed the vibe difference also. I wonder if like you say the top mounts make a difference? Maybe pop them off your 10 and see if it changes?

I do love the suspension front and rear!! I put the same spring in as you from memory but I'm weighing in at 95kg Nude and i wouldn't want a heavier spring thats for sure.

Nato
 
How much preload are you running on it Nath? I only set mine up with around 8mm. Did you go up a rate on the forks at all? I may drop back to the 5.2 again, although I did notice that kicking a bit and felt that it wanted to g-out a bit. Never bottomed it hard though.
 
Mate I honestly don't remember. But tge kicking on mine was easily adjusted out. And when the back end was where I liked it the front end felt very resposive. I am running a lighter pfp spring and standard main spring. It needs the next one up though.
 
Jakobi said:
I know some have said their Q silencers don't spooge.. well mine does with Amsoil at 45:1

The N3EH#2 felt a bit lean on the needle. Just a bit flat and not as strong as a half a clip richer is, so I'm going back to the trusty 40 N3CW#3, but I'll keep the 175 main for now. Bike still ran quite well over the 80kms or so we rode this morning. Lot of following cattle tracks through tight country. Good times and was lucky to get out of 2nd gear. The bike will definitely be a bit better with a 50T rear sprocket. Anyone know if I'll need to add a few links to the chain to slide it in? Should be able to just adjust the tension and sneak it in I'm hoping.

Suspension. It was wet again. Forks felt quite compliant over the small stuff, but I think was blowing through the stroke on the bigger things a bit. It looked as if they had been using all their stroke (clean) but we didn't do anything close to fast or rough. The shock with the 5.4 felt super harsh in comparison to how it rode last time with the 5.2. Its strange because it still felt like it was plush initially, but as soon as I got into some chop at speed it kicked and deflected everywhere. Possibly it was blowing through too? To the suspension guru's, what rate springs would you be looking at. I'm 75kgs without gear. Probably at least 95kgs with spare tube, tools, everything else.

Those 2 piece rad shrouds suck bat. Managed to have them unclip once already. Might have snapped the tip off one of the lugs. Also not really happy with the fitment of the gromets now the rad guards are on. Any suggestions regarding improving the fit and finish?
Click to expand...

Jake
Here is the discussion about fixing the Rad Shrouds....

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14529&highlight=mcmaster+carr
 
Thanks Stu. Seems more about a lower fixture point than the upper though.

Back to the suspension. Shock in particular.. Where has everyone else ended up on the clickers??

Is it possible to slide the shock out without flipping the subframe up?
 
StuJohnson said:
Here it is.

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13281


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Click to expand...

Edit: Removing through the bottom didn't work well for me and just ended up with banging clanging and bad words being thrown around. Much easier just to remove the silencer, remove the lower bolts on the swing arm, loosen the top (and the airboot) and swing the lot up.

I'm lazy.. thanks for doing the searching for me.. Now to decide to try the 5.2 again or stick with the 5.4

I think maybe with some heavier fork springs it wouldn't feel so hard in the rear.. decisions decisions..
 
Last edited:
Went back to the 5.2 rate with 10mm preload again. This put my sag perfect as per intial setup. What kind of figures are everyone running?

Also, it might be more of a thread for thumpertalk, but just wondering. Spring rate vs valving. Are there any advantages to one or the other? Ie heavier spring with less comp damping and more rebound, or vice versa?
 
I settled on 5.2 10mm preload 100mm sag. 160lbs rider weight. But the shock has a weird rebound kick on certian hits I couldn't get rid of without a revalve.
 
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