23 ounce flywheel weights

For those of you having some clearence issues with these 23 ounce flywheel weights,if it was me Id fire that baby up and use a quality file that can be cleaned and turn that flywheel and nut down,starting with the nut,and then knocking that sharp edge down,and finishing with a face cut if you had too.The bike is your lathe.

This is exactly what I did !!!!

But I really want to use my Ransom Machine Works AL cover. But I need to have about 1mm machined out of the inside in order to clear the old S3 weight. Just need to find me a local machine shop.

a5a2u6as.jpg
 
This is exactly what I did !!!!

But I really want to use my Ransom Machine Works AL cover. But I need to have about 1mm machined out of the inside in order to clear the old S3 weight. Just need to find me a local machine shop.

a5a2u6as.jpg

Now why did you lay that pretty thing in the dirt??;)
 
For those of you having some clearence issues with these 23 ounce flywheel weights,if it was me Id fire that baby up and use a quality file that can be cleaned and turn that flywheel and nut down,starting with the nut,and then knocking that sharp edge down,and finishing with a face cut if you had too.The bike is your lathe.

I wouldn't take any off the weight without having a shop do it or if you have experience. These are balanced from the factory and it wouldn't take much to un-balance it with a home made file job. Then your looking at more serious issues like blowing crank bearings. The nut wouldn't be so much of an issue to take a little off.
 
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The flywheel weight is made out of mild steel or a soft alloy.It mills very easily.As far as doing the work in place it depends on skill ,tools and comfort level.
If you want to get technical machining wise,milling the weight down a little in place on the axis it actually spins on will be more precise weight distribution wise then milling it down on a lathe and bolting it on,keeping in mind you are simply cleaning it up a bit as opposed to true tooling work.Its easy,we have done it alot.Not for clearance purposes but to get the weight exactly how we want it.
 
I wouldn't take any off the weight without having a shop do it or if you have experience. These are balanced from the factory and it wouldn't take much to un-balance it with a home made file job. Then your looking at more serious issues like blowing crank bearings. The nut would be so much of an issue to take a little off.

Agree. I only took a little bit off the nut as I did not want to install 4 gaskets....
 
Agree. I only took a little bit off the nut as I did not want to install 4 gaskets....

Its tricky,no doubt.Some sketch hoping you don't get you or the tool sucked up into the case,or your face or maybe into the wall or maybe a random person.We also drill to shave weight.Taking the corner off is easy enough,and will not change the balance at all.The nut can be taken down in a different manner.

Stu,have you any idea how much thread you have left before you reach the bottom where the flywheel seats on the crank.And how much material you have left in the flywheel.Might be easier to take down the recessed area where the nut and washer seat against the flywheel.

Kill two birds with one stone,after looking at the pictures seems you guys are getting between 1/2 and 3/4 thread on that nut with some nut sticking out past the face of the flywheel.Follow?
 
I figured it wouldn't be right if this topic wasn't on the board at least once a day.... :-)

Thank you for the input and ideas I am gone this weekend but will get back to you on Sunday with some dimensions


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That's kinda funny,considering the love I have for this weight.

Theres gonna be a "how to weight your clutch basket" thread coming soon.Im fishin all the time but when I get a chance to build this 200 engine Ill be putting some weight in the basket,and have some pictures and blow by blows and such.Its very effective on the small bore woods racers when done properly.
 
I finally had time to get a photo today... I don't know that this looks any different, but I still don't think that it touches the inside of the stator cover at all....
 

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If it's touching you want to look at the outboard side where the flywheel nut is.


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Tried my fww for the first time today. Conditions in Southern New Brunswick, Canada were wet, rocky, hilly, rooty trails. Nothing more than 3-4th gear in any straight stretch. Results.....super low end traction. Very subtle and linear power leading up to "on the pipe". Bike never stalled once in 4 hrs (60-70 kms) when lugging at low rpms. Took some getting used to that slower build up to the pipe, but only a few mins. Very happy w this mod!
 
Are there 23 oz flywheels available for a 2011 200 ? I will call Go Fasters on Monday . Also need to find out about the Sledgehammer cover for my bike ?
 
I called him this morning too. He has some in stock:D
Going to sneak it past the wife so I can have a 2T tractor :eek:

The 23 oz will not fit your 97', but the 97' should already be more of a tractor in stock form then any with the flywheel weight added. The heavy magneto and the counter balancer make that year bike an unstoppable lug machine......
 
13-50 gearing and it's hard to chug along behind my boys in 1st gear on a trail. Maybe I should go down to 12 and retard the timing a little. Dunno why it wouldn't fit the 97. Previous owner took out the lighting coil.
Does anybody make a weight for this bike?
 
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13-50 gearing and it's hard to chug along behind my boys in 1st gear on a trail. Maybe I should go down to 12 and retard the timing a little. Dunno why it wouldn't fit the 97. Previous owner took out the lighting coil.
Does anybody make a weight for this bike?

Bummer, if you could get your hands on the lighting coil you would know what im talking about.
 
13-50 gearing and it's hard to chug along behind my boys in 1st gear on a trail. Maybe I should go down to 12 and retard the timing a little. Dunno why it wouldn't fit the 97. Previous owner took out the lighting coil.
Does anybody make a weight for this bike?

You have nothing outside your flywheel?

What sort of flywheel nut do you have holding the flywheel on?

I think you can run a flywheel weight, if the stock Ducati external lighting has been removed. That was almost the same size as one of these 23oz weights.
The difference in the two is that your '97's stock external weight (as part of the external lighting) was held in "exact place" by matching the machined holes in the rear of the weight to the rivets in the flywheel, and using a long barrelled big headed nut screwed onto the end of the crank to secure it tightly (instead of the short nut like the "modern bikes" use).

You could always go to a 13/52 gearing. 13/53 is available, but I like the spacing of the 13/52 better. With the 52, you can walk alongside the bike while it's in first gear and it won't stall.
 
I haven't had the cover off in a while to see what it looks like in there. I will look tonight after work. Don't have a clue why he took it off.
Yeah 13/52 sounds like my kind of gearing to crawl up the side of a tree:D
 
You have nothing outside your flywheel?

What sort of flywheel nut do you have holding the flywheel on?

I think you can run a flywheel weight, if the stock Ducati external lighting has been removed. That was almost the same size as one of these 23oz weights.
The difference in the two is that your '97's stock external weight (as part of the external lighting) was held in "exact place" by matching the machined holes in the rear of the weight to the rivets in the flywheel, and using a long barrelled big headed nut screwed onto the end of the crank to secure it tightly (instead of the short nut like the "modern bikes" use).

You could always go to a 13/52 gearing. 13/53 is available, but I like the spacing of the 13/52 better. With the 52, you can walk alongside the bike while it's in first gear and it won't stall.
The ducati stator/flywheel us no where near the same size as the 23 oz weight. They may be the same weight, but very different in shape and size.
 
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