23 ounce flywheel weights

Only the center nut they send with it stuck out out by about 2/3mm could be machined down abit more. Easy fix, it wasn't anything to get in a tizzy about though.

I will write something up about it after this weekends race.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk

So what's your "tizzy" opinion on it?
 
Good for old and slow,not so good for fast guys?


That makes sense,the 99 ec 200 has a cast one.
The 2000 xc 250 has the plastic one.

Which one is preferable.
 
I would be interested in getting some fast guys together and try some blind testing. Run some with a 8 oz flywheel weigh some with the 23 oz and some naked to compare times. Would be fun as long as the riders weren't trying to sway results. Maybe tell them you are testing carb and computer setting instead and see.
 
I would be interested in getting some fast guys together and try some blind testing. Run some with a 8 oz flywheel weigh some with the 23 oz and some naked to compare times. Would be fun as long as the riders weren't trying to sway results. Maybe tell them you are testing carb and computer setting instead and see.

Blind testing against the clock..

These things generally translate into a competition between seat of the pants feel and the actual time... Smoother being faster, while aggressive set ups 'feel' faster. I know I'm slow so I'd rather feel fast.. HAHA!
 
Blind testing against the clock..

These things generally translate into a competition between seat of the pants feel and the actual time... Smoother being faster, while aggressive set ups 'feel' faster. I know I'm slow so I'd rather feel fast.. HAHA!

their go
 
Only the center nut they send with it stuck out out by about 2/3mm could be machined down abit more. Easy fix, it wasn't anything to get in a tizzy about though.

I will write something up about it after this weekends race.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
Installed 2 of these yesterday, both on 2012 300's, with no issue of the center nut being too long. Very easy installation. Test rides to come soon....
 
My "manhole cover" is the older version I guess as it is not tapered on the sides and does not have those 2 holes drilled in it.

enevusev.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Doesn't appear to be... but there also didn't seem to be any contact whatsoever with the cover... Maybe our gaskets were thicker? :confused:

I have the oem gasket and two that I cut from gasket material. And you can see the nut still rubs against the cover.

Sent from my SGH-T999L using Tapatalk
 
I had an issue... Was riding and shut the bike off. Went to kick it over and wouldn't spin at all just a screech sound if I pushed really hard. Figured it was crank bearings so I took the top end off. Still nothing so I went to loosen the ignition cover and instantly freed the motor.... I would imagine with only 1 gasket it only took a small bump to create some friction. I melted to the ignition cover and since then I have ran 3-4 gaskets. No problems since.
 
I have a question for you all. It concerns the ignition covers for the newer model bikes.

One of the problem (which has caused damage) that we've had with the plastic ignition cover, starting with it's use in 2000, was that they did not seal out the elements as well as the older metal ignition covers.
Often, when the cover was pulled for inspection we would find moisture and/or mud on the inside. One of our bikes even developed rust pitting on the left crank area, right at the main bearing's sealing surface.

At the tech seminars during the annual GG dealers' meetings, we were told to remove the ignition cover and clean and spray everything down with WD40 after every washing.

My response was to plug the small drain passage in the cases that is visible below and to the rear of the flywheel and emerges under the engine through a 6mm threaded hole in front of the oil drain plug. (So the water couldn't travel upwards into the ignition area during deep water crossings or crashes.)
I also started using a very thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black on each side of the ignition cover gasket, and made sure to not blast the ignition cover at close range with high pressure during washings.

Now, my question:
How well is the newer ignition cover sealing out the moisture? Is this still a problem? (I'm still following the above mentioned procedure with my new bike, and I am unaware of what is the current "official" Gas Gas policy.)
 
You need a vent on this ignition cover if you want this really water tight.
It's because the fast cooling when you enter a river. The internal trapped air shrink and suck water.
 
Cant say for the new Gas Gas models,but this thread brings up some interesting issues.If its plastic Jim,Ive never seen a plastic cover on any dirt bike that didnt have those problems eventually.The covers warp,the gaskets harden and even though some manufacturers reinforce the area on the cover where the mounting bolts seat;you just cant get the bolt to the right tension and have the plastic carry that load to the next fastener.The gasket eventually rolls over the edge of the case eventually anyway. ktm ignition covers have been the biggest problem for us in the past.With any of the plastic covers weve gone to the lots of goop method, basicly glueing the the things on there as opposed to trying to fasten and seat the gasket.The cast covers are better for sealing because they carry the load between fasteners and you can glue the gasket to the cover and then seal cover and gasket to case with some quality grease.
Plastic covers take the big hits better,they will absorb alot of the blow,whereas a metal cover can transfer that load to the case,which is very thin with little support in the ignition cavity.Still havent decided which one Im going to use on this gasser project,the cases are tougher on these gassers so we will probably use the cast one and rubber wrap it on the bottom leading edge.

For those of you having some clearence issues with these 23 ounce flywheel weights,if it was me Id fire that baby up and use a quality file that can be cleaned and turn that flywheel and nut down,starting with the nut,and then knocking that sharp edge down,and finishing with a face cut if you had too.The bike is your lathe.
 
Back
Top