Favorite Pre-Mix Oil

Well what can I say...

My 2004 EC300 hasn't seized, it still scares me to death when I want it to, it still lifts the front wheel whenever I want it to. :D

I haven't noticed any difference in performance, I just have extra money in my pocket to spend on spares for my EC300, spares for my GSXR, beer and red wine! ;)

About another 60 hours before I'm due a new piston kit, so will maybe know a bit more then.

All the best, Dave.
 
For me and my friends:
Motorex Cross Power 2t
or
IPONE SAMOURAI RACING 100%

and we pre-mix at 1.5% noooo problems!! ;)
 
on my 05' ec300 in Portugal, i use motul 710 or 800 in 1.5% (mixed enduro rides just for fun)

until now, no problems at all
 
BelRay Si7

BelRay Si7 in my 2021 GAS GAS EC300 TPI. Full syn. 20wt. with ester, flash point 224 F', dark blue for you premix guys. It is the oil that Husky (white KTM era) recommended for their 2smoke carbed bikes. My buddy uses it in his 2018 KTM 250 XC carbed bike and loves it. When I got my GAS GAS TPI I started pulling tech data sheets off the net, emailing and calling several oil companies. Motorex CrossPower 2T is a red 20wt. full syn. with ester and a flashpoint of 230 F'. Maxima K2 Injector (spec made for the newer TPI bikes) is a 20wt. full syn. with a 251 F' flash point, reddish in color. Maxima Super M Injector is a 20wt. semi-syn. with a 341 F' flash point and is orangish color (hard to tell when mixed). Motul 710 is a 20wt. full syn. with a 190 F' flashpoint and greenish in color. The newer Lucas Oil Racing Formula is a full syn. 20wt. with a 256 F' flash point and is blue in color. Amsoil Interceptor is a 15wt. full syn. with a 216 F' flash point. Just thought I'd share this info that I found.
 
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Champion WP2 TPI formula 2Stroke oil !

For those who used to use the Champion Racing Lubricants (old DuraLube) WP2 two stroke oil, they now have a new TPI formula. It's a semi.-syn. 20wt., red in color, flash point of 212 F', FD certified.

For those who might be interested in getting some try a search for www.championbrands.com , out of Clinton, MO .

Just FYI.......
 
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BWP219 said:
For those who used to use the Champion Racing Lubricants (old DuraLube) WP2 two stroke oil, they now have a new TPI formula. It's a semi.-syn. 20wt., red in color, flash point of 212 F', FD certified.

For those who might be interested in getting some try a search for www.championbrands.com , out of Clinton, MO .

Just FYI.......
Click to expand...

Thanks for that information.
Back in the early '80s, I used Golden Spectro at 50/1. My Yamaha dealer raced enduros, and he recommended the GS at 50/1.
I wasn't getting very good wear out of my piston/rings/cylinder bore, so I mixed it at 40/1.
When I used the GS at 40/1, it burned so dirty that it clogged up things, including sticking piston rings.
Then, in 1985, I heard about Duralube, and tried it at 50/1. It burned much cleaner than the Golden Spectro at 50/1, and gave me much better ring wear. Trying Duralube at 40/1, I got five times the life out of my piston/rings/cylinder bore as with Spectro at 50/1. (racing enduro or hare scrambles almost every weekend on big bore Yamahas)
I started ordering the Duralube in 10 case lots and sold it out of my van at the races, and also to riders who would come by my house for it.
By 1987, I was on a Husky WR430 (water cooled 6 speed panther of a bike) I had two of them. I raced my first '87 Husky WR430 for 6 years, and raced a second '87 WR430 for 3 years; all using Duralube at 40/1.

I became a dealer for GasGas in 1997. I got a EC250 and ran the bike at 50/1 like the factory specified. Duralube got harder to get, and I started experimenting with other oils.(at 50/1) I was not happy with how fast my rings wore. (I checked them regularly.)
Gasgasman and Boomhauser came over to Arkansas and rode some mountain single track with me. Robby was raving about Amsoil Dominator. He was running it at 40/1. I decided to try it. It worked well, and I got great ring/piston/cylinder wear.
I decided to do my own test regarding 50/1 vs 40/1 premix with the Dominator. I installed a fresh piston kit in a new bore on an EC300 and went racing with the 50/1 pre-mix.
After a month, I tore down the top end. My ring end gap had worn from .008" to .012" in that 30 days. The piston still looked great.
I put a new set of rings on the piston and started another test. After 30 days of hard riding and racing, I tore it down and measured my rings' end gap. It had started at .008" and still measured .008".
(No measurable wear!)
I put the top end back together with the same rings, and tore it down for measuring after two more months. Still no wear! I ran those rings for a year of racing using Amsoil Dominator at 40/1 with non-ethanol 93 octane pump premium. After that year, I tore down the top end again. The rings now had a .012" end gap. (Wossner piston kit) The piston had some dark spots, but no streaking or wear. The bore still looked new.
I've been using Amsoil Dominator at 40/1 ever since. I got an average of 4-5 years out of a piston and over a year out of a ring set while I was still racing. I'm not racing anymore due to vision problems, but I haven't changed my dirt bike pre-mix. (It's not as clean burning as some other oils, but it's a lot cheaper to clean the powervalve and to clean and pack the exhaust than it is to replace the piston kit and have the cylinder reconditioned.)
I have a good selection of other "top end" premix oils left over in my shelves, but I use them in the chain saws and weedeaters, not my dirt bikes. (I have to do the mechanics for the family. :) )

Just my opinion.
Good Riding!
Jim


.
 
Lots of oil good. More oil better. At least in particular for small bore high revving engines.

My 300 by comparison, ridden in mid to tight areas , I'm off the gas as much as on it.

I was surprised how my 200 had virtually no ring wear. I'd replaced the piston out of guilt 3 years in, but was still at Top of tolerance.

My 07 300 I replaced piston when I bought it in 09. It was badly scoured like it had been drowned or filter leak by PO.

New piston carefully gapped ring to top end measurement, and several years later I replaced a leaking base. Rings hadn't appreciably worn.

Then, suddenly after barely 11 years of life, the left main took a shower. New rodkit while I was there. And measuring the ring was surprised as it had worn 1/3rd of its allowable tolerance. It's still in service today. Outstanding.

Golden Spectro at 40 to 1. I used it in the dirtbikes as one of my less radical small bore road racers showed little wear running it. Perhaps it got better from the 90s?
 
I switched from 927 to Lucas semi-synthetic a few years for availability reasons. Now that I have checked a few top ends after extensive use I can say I really like this oil. Bores all look perfect and ring wear is just like any other oil I've used.

On the Golden Spectro, I ran that in my street RD250 and RD350's back in the day and they saw lots of hard miles. Never had a problem with it.
 
I was running GS today in my GG. I'm pretty sure the rad wheelie I pulled was as a result.
 
LiquiMoly 2T Synth Offroad Race

For those that can find it, LIQUI MOLY has their 2T SYNTH Offroad Race two stroke oil. It is a 20wt. full-syn., 208 F' flashpoint, FD certified, red in color (for premix purposes), TPI/injector or premix use, made in Germany. Just FYI.

BP
 
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