Jetting Database - PLEASE ADD YOUR SETTINGS

Bike year & model = 2003 EC200
Temperature (degF) = 68 - 100
Elevation (feet) = 1300 – 2500 ( roughly varying )
Main jet = 178
Pilot jet = 48
Needle & notch = N3HJ - 2
Air screw setting = 2 3/4
Throttle valve/slide = 5

Results: I use this setting all year round. I have found that it is very smooth from bottom to top. Air screw was 3 ¼, but wouldn’t idle when warm, now at 2 3/4. I’m considering moving needle to middle notch for better bottom end. Am using Motul 800 mixed at 50:1.
 
08 ec 300...had the bog off idle..was cured with a cck needle#3 position,178 main,42 pilot..2 turns out on air screw..runs perfect..thanks
 
2001 ec-300 with motocross ign and RB style head mod
Temperature (degF) = 40-90
Elevation (feet) = 2200- 5800
Main jet = 165 messico & doma pipe, 170 fmf pipe




Pilot jet = 35
Needle & notch = Kawi N3YF #3 notch
Air screw setting = .75 turn out
Throttle valve/slide = #9

Results. Very crisp throughout the rpm range, pulls hard with instant throttle response and good high rpm power , Caveat , would not ride in sand with this small a main jet, 10 minute road section at W.O.T. with no problems and no overheating
 
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Bike year & model = 2004 DE250
Temperature (degF) = 50 - 70 degF
Elevation (feet) = Sea level to 1000 ft
Main jet = 180
Pilot jet = 45
Needle & notch = LTR -0 #3
Air screw setting = 1-1.5 turns out
Throttle valve/slide = #7

Results:
Much cleaner jetting that my prior post. Bike runs strong and smooth in conjunction w/ .45mm base gasket on my cylinder.
 
GG27 revised settings

Bike year & model =EC 250 2008
Temperature (degF) =60 TO 85
Elevation (feet) =0 TO 1000
Main jet =182
Pilot jet =45
Needle & notch =LTR - 0 #3
Air screw setting =1 to 1 1/2
Throttle valve/slide =#8

Results:After changing slide to a #8 I raised the pilot from a 42 to a 45 and bike runs strong throughout with no bogging at all. I changed silencer from the standard banana to the MC and hits stronger with better throttle response from mid to top, signs off a little quicker. Now I can tell the difference with the dual map switch. I prefer the standard long silencer, it gives a broader spread for overall use, MC silencer is good for the motocross track or rain setting for tight woods.
 
Bike year & model = EC300 '07
Temperature (degF) = 70
Elevation (feet) = 50 / about 1010mbar / 70% rel. humidity
Main jet = 175
Pilot jet = 42
Needle & notch = LTR #3
Air screw setting = 1.5 turns
Throttle valve/slide = #7

FMF Gnarly, otherwise stock.

Results: Very happy. Idles good, clean & strong through whole range, average about 4 liters/hour at (my slow) race pace, no spooge, black threads on sparky but tan electrode.

Peculiar: After starting cold with shortest possible use of choke, I allways need to run it hard through the gears to clear it out. After that it can run at really slow speed for a long while without loading up.
 
Bike year & model = 2005 DE250 (11oz FWWeight)

Stock reeds. LTR needle with clip on position 2. LTR PV cover. Stock slide.

Winter in Phoenix:

Temperature (degF) = 40 - 80
Elevation (feet) = 1100 – 2500
Main jet = 178
Pilot jet = 45
Needle & notch = LTR - 2
Air screw setting = 2 1/2
Throttle valve/slide = stock


Summer in Phoenix:

Temperature (degF) = 80 - 110
Elevation (feet) = 1100 – 2500
Main jet = 172
Pilot jet = 42
Air screw setting = 1 1/2


Summer in Flagstaff:

Temperature (degF) = 75 - 85
Elevation (feet) = 7,000 – 9500
Main jet = 165 (I gave the 168 a try -- almost but not quite lean enough -- a little burble on top. 165 did the trick and was particularly crisp if I dropped the needle to the first clip).
Pilot jet = 40
Air screw setting = 2 1/2
 
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Bike year & model = 2006 EC 300
Temperature (degF) = 50
Elevation (feet) = 0 - 1000
Location = Cork, Ireland
Main jet = 178
Pilot jet = 42
Needle & notch = CCK clip 3
Air screw setting = 1.5 turns
Throttle valve/slide = No. 7 slide

Results:
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Riding style: slow technical trails and fast open paths
Premix: Using RockOil Syn 2 race mixed about 45:1.

Performance: I thought this bike was good with the N1EF needle but the CCK has made this bike one I want to keep for life !! Awesome midrange now.
 
fergus ....I've got an 06 300 with almost identical set up ....
how is your gas mileage?? Mine sucks. I ride mostly tight technical stuff 1st and 2nd gear.
 
fergus ....I've got an 06 300 with almost identical set up ....
how is your gas mileage?? Mine sucks. I ride mostly tight technical stuff 1st and 2nd gear.

I haven't tested mine over a 2 or 3 hour period yet. I will try it this weekend and let you know how I fare with the mileage. With the N1EF needle, the bike was very good on gas.
 
how is your gas mileage?? Mine sucks. I ride mostly tight technical stuff 1st and 2nd gear.

The gas mileage on my 300s has always sucked, compared to my previous 250, no matter what needle I use. At the Quarry Run the stock tank on my '03 EC300 ran dry at 45.6 miles and gas was at 46.1. Of course most of this can be attributed to the auto-clutch. Prior to installing the auto-clutch on my '01 XC300 I went over 50 miles on the stock tank.

It doesn't really bother me when riding technical trails since we're never more than 5 miles from the truck. From now on, on longer runs, I'll be using my oversize tank. In fact, back in '06, I ran a couple enduros with the oversize tank and didn't even fill up at the gas stop.
 
Bill, have Ron at RBD cut the head. My '03 250 was a gas hog and this made a noticable improvement.
 
I haven't really run a full tank dry yet ...I did a one gallon test run .. I figured I'd get about 40 to 45 miles out of a tank. Some local guys think I should be able to get 50 to 60. one of these days I'll find out for sure .. hopefull no pushing involved
 
I haven't really run a full tank dry yet ...I did a one gallon test run .. I figured I'd get about 40 to 45 miles out of a tank. Some local guys think I should be able to get 50 to 60. one of these days I'll find out for sure .. hopefull no pushing involved

Guys - I have been meaning to comment on all the posts I see relating to miles per tank on these bikes. In my opinion, these figures are meaningless. It all depends on the terrain being ridden and the riding style being employed. 1st & 2nd gear tight tracks and climbs are going to empty a tank in very few miles whereas open tracks using 4th 5th and 6th gears will give a good return on fuel. Also, a bike's gearing will affect fuel consumption noticeably.

I judge my bike's consumption on hours running not miles. Its still not accurate but at least it is a more comparable figure to use than miles covered. Up to now, I have been able to get about 3 hours use from a tank of gas before going on to reserve using the N1EF needle. I will test the CCK needle this weekend to see if it is better or worse with regard to consumption.

Fergus
 
A few observations on increasing fuel efficiency...

1) Float and Jetting – this is the first step. Make sure the float is set correctly. Dial your jetting in so the plug looks good, the engine runs smoothly across the range with good power and throttle response. The tail pipe should have little oily spooge when you are jetted well. The CCK needle is one of the best in my experience for performance and fuel mileage.
2) RB designs head mod. This will reduce the amount of unburned fuel and improve power (primarily low to mid) by improving combustion efficiency.
3) down hills – the PWK carbs will drain fuel out the overflow when you are descending hills steeper than about 30 degrees. I first noticed this when following my oldest son down hills. I set the motorcycle up suspended at a downhill angle and found when the fork tubes were near vertical the carb would drain lots of fuel out the overflow. This is with the float set to spec. This becomes noticeable on long (1/2 mile to 1 mile) steep descents. Minimize your time on the descents and/or shut off the fuel and down hill mountain bike the ride.
4) riding style – maintaining corner speed with a smooth flowing style notably improves efficiency.
5) [for Rekluse users] proper Rekluse set up with TC balls and a low RPM engage point to avoid a lot of low speed slip

On technical trails (like these -http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/trailbikes/trails.shtml ) I get 30+ mpg riding alone. I ride to maximize cornering speed. I weigh about 270 lb geared up.

I get about 22-25 mpg on the same trails giving my 6 year old son a ride. With him aboard most of the riding is 1st to 3rd gear with the majority of the time in 2nd gear. He weighs about 95 lb geared up. We corner slower and use more fuel accelerating out of corners. There is more clutch slip on uphills giving him a ride. There is also more fuel used due to the added mass. This fuel mileage includes multiple 3-4 mile long climbs from under 2000 ft elevation to nearly 6000 ft elevation.
 
I haven't tested mine over a 2 or 3 hour period yet. I will try it this weekend and let you know how I fare with the mileage. With the N1EF needle, the bike was very good on gas.

Ok guys - heres my verdict.

Did a 5 hour enduro yesterday on my EC300. 178 MJ, CCK needle, clip 2. Bike was just awesome - great linear power stright off the bottom. Conditions were gnarly, slippy and wet with lots of wheelspin and full power climbs. As an educated guess, my bike used approx 10% more fuel with the CCK needle than with the N1EF needle. We had fuel stops every hour and 40 mins so consumption was nota problem. I used approx 14 or 15 litres of fuel over this time frame under race conditons. Still pretty good in my opinion.


Fergus
 
Can the CCK work on any capacity. Was wondering if it would work well on my 200?

I checked some threads over on KTM Talk for their 200 and no mention of using the CCK needle. The 300 yes.

Here are the popular choices that seemed to come up the most (and JD needles of course).

CEK, CEL
DCJ, DCK
DDJ, DDK

Not sure if that helps or not but something to think about.


Skidad
 
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