Jetting Database - PLEASE ADD YOUR SETTINGS

[SideshowBob]

Does anyone know what standard needle the LTR needle is similar to?
I am trying to compare this needle with other standard needles in the JD jetting program referenced elsewhere in this forum. I have just done a head squish mod (now 1.25mm & 170PSI) & raised the base gasket thickness by 1.2 mm to align the top of piston with bottom of transfer ports and the bike feels flat mid to top-end. Currently running 45PJ, LTR #3, 182MJ, #7 slide & 98 RON fuel @ 50:1.

I was on the phone with Les at LTR last Thursday and he told me the Needle was literally just a DDK with the DDK machined off. He also gave me permission to post that information here.

I am in the process of Jetting my 2003 MC250, planning on starting off at this-

Pilot- 42
Needle- DDK
Main- 172

 

[eff]

I was on the phone with Les at LTR last Thursday and he told me the Needle was literally just a DDK with the DDK machined off. He also gave me permission to post that information here.

I am in the process of Jetting my 2003 MC250, planning on starting off at this-

Pilot- 42
Needle- DDK
Main- 172

Bob, I think you may find the 172 on the lean side. I'm running a 180 main and find it good for the main, but the 45 pilot too rich. I'll be going down to a 42 pilot and see how that works. I am also running the LTR needle.

 

[SideshowBob]

Bob, I think you may find the 172 on the lean side. I'm running a 180 main and find it good for the main, but the 45 pilot too rich. I'll be going down to a 42 pilot and see how that works. I am also running the LTR needle.

LoL, just for clarification my name is Josh. SideshowBob was a nickname for the hair (when I had it still).

I did order a 172 and a 175 from Mark, so I will try the 175 first. Thanks!

Edit- I also have the 180 that was in the carb, so I can always go back to that!

 

[2stroker]

GG300 WILD with custom pipe

Bike year & model = 2004 GG300 wild
Temperature (degCelsius) = 0 to 17
Elevation (feet) = sea level
Main jet = 185
Pilot jet = 40
Needle & notch = N1ED, second starting from top
Air screw setting = 1,5 turns out
Throttle valve/slide = 7

 

[ECRider]

Thanks guys for your responses.
It appears that the squish head mod & advanced port timing (raised deck 1.2mm) I had done recently has actually made the bike run leaner so I changed from the LTR needle (marked DDK but with dual taper) to CEK needle at #2 clip, 180MJ & 42 PJ & it has cleaned it up pretty well.
It still runs a bit rich at idle to quarter throttle ie air screw still doesn't work. I'll next try a Honda needle R1370DKA (equivalent to a CCL) with larger diameter to get it leaner on the bottom. I was looking at going to a #8 slide however I have been told by a local Keihin dealer that needle dia has the same effect at less $$.

 

[SideshowBob]

I was on the phone with Les at LTR last Thursday and he told me the Needle was literally just a DDK with the DDK machined off. He also gave me permission to post that information here.

I am in the process of Jetting my 2003 MC250, planning on starting off at this-

Pilot- 42
Needle- DDK Middle Slot
Main- 172

Current Jetting-
Pilot- 42
Needle- DDK Middle Slot
Main- 180
Feels Awesome so far. Air Screw is out 2 and an 1/8 to 2 1/2.

250-1500 feet, 60-80 degrees.

Needle might need to come down one for hotter weather, not sure about that yet.

 

[AZRickD]

Given Arizona's heat and our sometimes abusive, technical rides, I tend to jet a little fat just to cool things off and keep them lubed.

Having said that, I may have to rethink my summer jetting on the 2005 DE250 -- posted a couple pages above. (LTR needle and PV cover, all else stock).

In preparation for riding Flagstaff, Arizona this weekend (Elev 7K to 9K and usually 30F cooler than Phx in the summer), I re-jetted from what is my "Arizona Spring" jetting of 175/42 down to 168/40.

I warmed the bike up and gave it a test ride tonite (temp 84F, elev 1,200). 84F is around the mid-point of our summer rides (which start at sun-up and end around 9am as temps climb to 95, 105, even 115).

Gawd, this combination rips. I was having issues with keeping the front wheel down at times. This will require some looking into (plug chops) after my top-end and squish mod next week or so.

 

[SideshowBob]

Current Jetting-
Pilot- 42
Needle- DDK Middle Slot
Main- 180
Feels Awesome so far. Air Screw is out 2 and an 1/8 to 2 1/2.

Needle might need to come down one for hotter weather, not sure about that yet.

Just as an update, Air Screw ended up being best between 2 and 1/4 and 2 and 3/8.

Haven't had time to do a chop test yet.

 

[2 strokes 4 life]

Up-date:

FOR MOTO USE ONLY (UNLESS YOUR A MAN)!!!!!!!!!!

Bike year & model = 2002 Gasgas EC250
Temperature (degF) = 90-50Deg F
Elevation (feet) = 0-2500FT
Main jet = 175 (drop one for lower than 1500 or so)
Pilot jet = 35
Needle & notch = N1EF at 2nd from top position
Air screw setting =1.5 to 2.5 turns out
Throttle valve/slide = #7 slide

Results: This is a super hard hitting set-up and especialy with a FMF Gnarly. It makes the power very aggressive and almost useless for off road, but works wonders on the track. Starts very well in colder temps as well.

 

[mariogt]

This is my all around setup:

Bike year & model = 2009 Gasgas EC300 Racing
Temperature (degF) = 86-68Deg F
Elevation (feet) = 0-2000 FT
Main jet = 178
Pilot jet = 40
Needle & notch = N1EF at 2nd from top position
Air screw setting =1.5 to 2.5 turns out
Throttle valve/slide = #7 slide

Before i have a 35 pilot but the bike lost all its torque/lowend power, so i changed to a 40p. Im still testing because here in Copiapó Chile we have gigantic dunes, and for race in this kind of terrain i will change the main to 180, and lower the clip 1 position. For the rest of our rocky tracks my all around setup works well.

 

[GG27]

Thanks guys for your responses.
It appears that the squish head mod & advanced port timing (raised deck 1.2mm) I had done recently has actually made the bike run leaner so I changed from the LTR needle (marked DDK but with dual taper) to CEK needle at #2 clip, 180MJ & 42 PJ & it has cleaned it up pretty well.
It still runs a bit rich at idle to quarter throttle ie air screw still doesn't work. I'll next try a Honda needle R1370DKA (equivalent to a CCL) with larger diameter to get it leaner on the bottom. I was looking at going to a #8 slide however I have been told by a local Keihin dealer that needle dia has the same effect at less $$.

After I did my port matching and tightened the squish I also got a leaner running bike and had some pinging when going up slopes at wide open when I had the ignition on the rain mode, so I kept the switch on the sunny mode and raised the needle half a notch and the pinging went away. I already had a #8 slide so I dropped it in and the off idle response was excellent. I think the slide only afects the of idle to 1/4 throttle response, while the needle afects all the throttle range. I also changed to a richer CCK middle clip needle and the bike has more low end torque, rips right through with descent smooth power with lots of overrev, nice motor now. The air screw had to come down to 1 turn out (from 2 with the #7 slide).

I currently have put in the N1EF #3 with 42 pj and 180 mj with the #8 slide and the bike is as powerful as my previous YZ250 but has a hole just as the PV starts to open,(too rich) so I'll change the main to a 175 to see the difference. BTW weather here is around mid 30s C with high relative humidity for Greece (60%)

 

[ECRider]

GG27 be careful when leaning off main jet.
I just blew a hole in my piston with the following 42PJ, JD blue #2, 172MJ, 8 Slide. I was doing 125 km/hr on a transport section at an enduro last month, backed off slightly on the throttle, when to power on again & PHUUT! - end of ride .
The bike was running like an animal before hand & was too much in the rocks & logs so I was mostly running in the rain mode although not when she blew. It was pinging a bit during the event but plug checks looked to be OK (not white) & had a similar "hole" as you had described just before letting rip - possibly lean in hindsight.

Lesson I learnt from this - take plenty of time to check new jetting in an area similar to what you'll be racing in & don't always trust what other riders have posted for jetting on their bikes as motor set-up, fuel, location can make a big difference.

Have now just rebuilt the motor & will be going back to something more easily controlled in the rocks & logs ie 42PJ, CEK #4, 180MJ, #8 slide.

 

[reiterrider]

Good Begginer Settings

Here are my first settings:
Bike year & model = 2003 EC-250
Temperature (degF) =32f - 85f
Elevation (feet) =0-3500
Main jet = 175
Pilot jet =40
Needle & notch = EG 3rd clip
Air screw setting = 2
Throttle valve/slide = #6

This was my first two stroke and I purchased in January of 2009. I have a solid 6 months of riding with 3-4 rides a month and 2-6 hours of riding each ride. I would say the bike worked great and had no issues with being too lean or too fat. The plug was a latte color and it always started on the 2nd or 3rd kick.
The power was perfectly linear, but fairly slow off the line. That's why I think this is a good setting for someone new to two strokes or dirt biking. It's been a great transition bike from my Honda CRF 250-X
In warmer weather it seemed to idle a bit high, but was fixed with a half turn of the air screw.

 

[reiterrider]

Summer Settings for Western Washington

Here are my new settings:
Bike year & model = 2003 EC-250
Temperature (degF) =50f - 85f
Elevation (feet) =0-3500
Main jet = 175
Pilot jet =42
Needle & notch = DDK 3rd clip
Air screw setting = 2
Throttle valve/slide = #6

Installed new Power valve cover from Gofasters.com

This is my second set up for my bike
I purchased the bike in January of 2009. I have a solid 7 months of riding with 3-4 rides a month and 2-6 hours of riding each ride.
I went from a 40 pilot to a 42 and a EG needle to a DDK.
Can you say transformational?
This changed the bike in several ways:
It wheelies without hardly trying, yet it's very controllable.
It's still super linear, but has throttle when you need it.
When I'm in tight gnarly stuff, it keeps the front end light. So instead of pushing through the rough terrain, it floats over it creating a smoother ride.

Thanks to Les from LTRracing.com and thanks to GoFasters.com for setting me up with the parts!

 

[GG27]

Thanks ECRider.
I went back to my original setting of CCK #3 42PJ, 180MJ and #8 slide. This worked really well in an extreme rocky enduro with lots of uphill rock crossings. It was just a wee bit lean when doing transfer sections (made knocking sounds when closing the throttle after keeping the throttle pined for over one minute) and engine boiled over for the first time! O.K. it was 36 Celcius! and only 1st and 2nd gear for over 30 minutes.
So I guess I will raise the needle by half a clip. I also tried CCK #2 with a #7 slide but was a bit too rich of the bottom for my style of riding even if the air screw was 2 1/2 out.
BTW I will never go lower than a 178 main on the 250's.

 

[moto9]

09 EC 300
2500 elv

172 mj
38 pj
cck @3
a/s 1.0 out

Good off the bottom, I still need to do some plug chops to check the top end

 

[bondo]

General jetting guidelines for 2-stroke motors at elevation 8000 - 13000 ft.
Pilot: One step richer than stock.
Needle: Clip in top notch (drop needle).
Main Jet: Five steps leaner than stock.

This guideline is the one suggested by Sunsports in Gunnison, CO.

It has been used for many years on a wide variety of bikes.
Obviuosly, the jetting changes outlined pre-suppose a properly jetted bike at or near sea level.

Our application is an '08 DE 300. Specific jetting below.

Stock Main: #178. Re-jetted for Altitude: #165.
Needle: Clip in center notch. Re-jetted for Altitude; Clip in top notch.
Stock Pilot: #45. Re-jetted for Altitude: # 48.

These guidelines and settings have been used at the noted altitude with excellent results.

 

[300XCRider]

Updated Settings:

2009 EC 300

Ele: 0 - 1500ft ASL
Pilot: 40
Main: 180
Needle: JD Red, 3rd clip position
AS: 1 1/2 out (tested @ 70*, will have to do some fine tuning here I suspect)
Mixture: Castrol TTS @ 50:1

Removed reed block spacer.

Very little spooge and plug chops reveal a good color.

 

[SideshowBob]

2009 EC 300

Ele: 0 - 1500ft ASL
Pilot: 42
Main: 180
Needle: JD Blue, clip in 3rd position
AS: 1 1/2 out
Mixture: Red Line Racing oil @ 70:1

just broke the bike in with these settings. Will report back after Sundays' 50 miler with any changes. But it seems pretty good as it is.

70:1? Holy crap I thought I was risking it at 40:1

 

[300XCRider]

They guy who did the prep on my bike said he mixes his at 100:1 and has not had any issues. An entire National Enduro season was ran at that ratio.

FWIW, I ran my KTM300 at 70:1 and after 80+ hours, no problems.