Hi guys, thank you for your answers.
I'm at the end of my wits at the moment and need help. The CCK seems to be the way to go, clean and strong all the way with smooth transitions sounds perfect. Agree fully that too much or too zippy power is only bad. I learned that lesson well with my YZ450 '03
Engine has only has about 20 hours. First 10 hours it was run by the previous owner with extremely fat jetting with the stock needle. Lots of smoke, spooge from the silencer, all black plug and drool from the PV drain.
I put in the LTR at #3, 178, 42 (#7, stock still in there) during the summer and cleaned up the spooge and put in a fresh plug. I have only ridden tight woods since then on low to mid throttle and thought it was perfect.
Lately I've had access to some more open spaces, and noticed it couldn't rev out. The engine feels as if the PV does not open and blubbers a lot with "normal jetting".
One possible problem area: The stock silvery pipe was finally smashed up and I couldn't fix it because of the heavy gauge. The bike was street legal and had a black pipe with an extra air pipe close to the cylinder. I had the pipe removed and welded shut. I'm now using that pipe. I assume it is otherwise identical to stock. Possibly, it's not and is more like the Gnarly with good bottom but lacking on top, or worse.
Could the silencer packing be saturated and messing things up?
I removed the PV covers to check if the PV was jammed. There is a thin film of black oil on everything, but the right side vertical pin from the crank can move up and down smoothly. Left side with the two bearings (both sealed, not as in the manual where one has open bearings) seems ok. I have not disassembled the PV and removed the cylinder. Can the PV still be jammed if the actuator pin moves smoothly up and down?
Air filter care was a little sloppy, so I cleaned the airbox to spotless, got a new filter (nice to have 2), a fresh bottle of Maxima FFT, oiled it lightly, let it set overnight.
I removed the pipe, looked inside it and seemed ok clean, cleaned out the mound of goop under and around the flange where it must have been leaking, put in 2 new o-rings and added a little high-temp silicon, and let sit overnight.
The V-force reeds should still be fine. I run synthetic at 50:1 with fresh pump gas. Our normal pump gas is stated as 95 octane, but have no idea if it's RON or other rating. We also have 98, which I think is the same but with no alcohol or other "negative" additives.
Gearing could be too tall at 13:48. Maybe 3rd,4th,5th,6th are so tall it just seems slow, but I doubt it. Next change will be to 13:49.
I've gone up and down all clips and tried all MJ's from 180 to 160 on the same evening on paved roads at a desolated industrial area. Low to mid is wonderful, mid to top is very dissapointing.
Weather is slightly above freezing, dry, high pressure, right above sea level. Jetting changes have surprisingly little effect compared to 4-t's with FCR carbs. On my little WRF or big YZ, one clip or one MJ too high or too low, or quarter turn on the fuel screw became way off. On this one I can barely tell a difference except that at 178 or higher it just blubbers, under 168 it starts to get the hollow intake sound. 175 to 160 still pull almost the same
The transition from a good mid to a weak top seems better with the least stumble with the clip at #1-3 from top, ie. middle or all the way down, ie. leanest.
Shoot me! Right now it's a 42PJ 1 turn, LTR #1(!), 168MJ(!) slide #7.
Sorry for rambling. Would a CCK cure this situation?
Any ideas?
