Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks

I tried a wrench and channel locks, but the knob was going to get damaged if I cranked on it any harder. I don't have the proper sized socket for it, so I guess I need to buy a 24mm and try again later.

I'm hoping to break her in today, so I put it back together last night as-is.
 
I took the handlebars off and used a 22 mm socket to turn it as others suggested. Mine came from the factory all of the way out. I turned it in one turn just to test it out, but I haven't experimented enough to give any real feedback. I'm just following up on my previous question.

Thanks
 
Riding time has been limited by weather and work, but finally got about 20hr on my '11 250 race with 48mm zokes. I'm very happy with them now; they were a bit stiff initially. Only thing I've done is ride, get some grease on the seals, and dump the stock outer chamber fluid and replace with 5wt Honda fluid. I didn't separate the forks, but let them drain / pumped them inverted and only got 250cc of fluid from the outer chamber(s), so that's what I put back in...although I've read that the spec is for more. You'll need a 49mm 8 point fork wrench for the caps, I got one from Motion Pro. I'm 160lb C speed, I've never ridden any forks I thought were better.
 
Saturday i changed the oil and made few more adjustments in my forks. The result is that, my suspension is much better for rocks and tight stuff now.
Oil 2,5W. 300 ml in outer chamber.
Preload 0mm.
C 13 to be more tested
R 12 to be more tested
PFP 0 to be more tested
im 67kg without equipment.

Here the work photos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bkRjauH4Qo&feature=youtu.be
 
Last edited:
Please use the search function. Most of what I ride is more gnarly than that video and mine work great.
 
Is there anything special to consider when changing oil or is it like other cc ​​forks? And what oil is recommended?
Does anyone have an instruction or has obtained the user's manual for this fork?
 
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take a look at marzocchi 50 CC forks manual.
Plus
add your previous knowledge on Showa CC forks.
and
look at the link i posted before.

You will need one wrench to open the fork cap (8 sided 49mm) and if you want to change the inner chamber oil, one special 8 sides wrench to fit inside the fork cap.
highly recommended: soft jaws and loctite to fix the bolts.

Fork seal driver if you split the fork. (no need if things look clean)

Manual? Really BIG mistake from marzocchi.
 
i do not know the oil weight. It is 5W ou 7,5W...
i happy with 2,5W. It and less preload solved the hash feel for me.

Maybe solidperformance can help you more than me.
 
Who makes the tool to remove the compression valve? The typical KYB tool will not work due to the PFP knob.
 
Nice, my next thought exactly!

edit:

Leo,

What did you start out with, I'm having a hell of a time finding a 36mm octagonal nut.
 
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Question for those of you who made ​​the oil change:
- How much oil do you have in the inner chamber?
- How much can you pour out when you have screwed back the floating piston? (through the holes)
 
GMP said:
Nice, my next thought exactly!

edit:

Leo,

What did you start out with, I'm having a hell of a time finding a 36mm octagonal nut.
Click to expand...

Started with a tool for a KYB then machined a relief in the underside for the PFP ...
 
GMP said:
Nice, my next thought exactly!

edit:

Leo,

What did you start out with, I'm having a hell of a time finding a 36mm octagonal nut.
Click to expand...

i started with a 36mm hexagonal nut.

QUOTE=Hoobs;83500]Question for those of you who made ​​the oil change:
- How much oil do you have in the inner chamber?
- How much can you pour out when you have screwed back the floating piston? (through the holes)[/QUOTE]

i used 1 liter of oil. maybe 200cc in each inner chamber after screwed back the piston.
 
I made one from a KYB tool hollowed out and welded to a socket, pic in other thread.
 
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