Powervalve issue?

[motogroove]

Thank you Stainless. Saved me some Photoshop.

That's what I was guessing. And I was thinking the same thing about two feeler gauges being ideal.

I'll just stop here for a moment and thank everybody here. This is a remarkably knowlegeable and helpful group, with an absence of douchebaggery that's unheard of on the interweb. I mean, I can't even think of anybody here who's even slightly annoying, except for myself of course.

While I'm pretty brave with any tools and any materials, I don't go digging for trouble when curiosity might kill the cat. After reading enough here, the upside increases and the risk diminishes.

Special thanks to Mark and Dustin over at GoFasters.

 

[motogroove]

I took the case side off and fully reworked the rod shape......I can't believe how much it was binding I KNOW i did not do that when I removed the cylinder.

2 years of ortho wire bending courses in dental school and building dozens of RC airplane models with Z bent servo pushrods came in handy. No binding. Smooth actuation. Now I will set preload and button her up.

I'll admit that when I read Zhack's post the first time I was thinking "oh no, dude, don't bend it!"

Then, yesterday I removed mine and straightened it out maybe one or two degrees*. While I was initially fooled that I was tight against the stop, the authoritative sound I heard was the rod hitting the front of the case hole. I'm really still not quite sure how I was fooled on such a simple inspection - could'a sworn I saw it touching the bolt.

Before I discovered that, I was trying to get scientific about measuring the "very slight" preload at the stop, looking for 80% swizzlestick deformation. Shocked to only achieve 22.373% swizzlestick deformation, I then discovered I was not getting full closure (story of my life, but let's no go there).

This is not a factory procedure because Spanish swizzlesticks are different.

All joking aside, it was easy enough to pull off the rod and straighten it a hair. Heat the nylock nut on the PV actuator plate (I used a lighter) to ease the nut off without snapping the post off.

*Thanks to Zhack for his angle on the thread.

 

[motogroove]

Sort of stupid and goofy, or not?

I read that I wanted very slight preload against the stop. But how to measure the pressure from above? (Pretend I don't want to pull clutch covers if I don't need to).

Well, slight pressure would squeeze a swizzlestick without flattening it all the way. I'm getting 81.338% swizzlestick deformation here, uh, give or take... If I hit 100%, I'd be worried about excessive preload.

At least I have a baseline now. LOL

-McGyver

 

[stainlesscycle]

you will feel the difference with that much swizzlestick deformation you'll also eliminate pv chatter...

 

[rgranger]

Now, because I am exceptionally dense, is this really pre-load or gap, I would think pre-load would be positive pressure on the stop? sorry, my aspergers kicking in

 

[motogroove]

Now, because I am exceptionally dense, is this really pre-load or gap, I would think pre-load would be positive pressure on the stop? sorry, my aspergers kicking in

The degree to which the swizzlestick is crushed measures the amount of the positive pressure that you describe.

Ideally there should be zero gap (I believe), as shown in the Zhacktly Corrected photo.

 

[rgranger]

Thanks, I have to check my gasket set that arrived and try and do this sometime this week. 88 degrees at nighttime here in houston, dang it is just too hot to be monkeying around out in the garage!

 

[Zhack]

Syndrome

I just caught up with this thread.....

My wife will be thrilled to know that the internet discussion group has coined the "condition" of my rod "Zhack slack syndrome".....

Hopefully due to my courage in talking about it in an open furum, others of you will come forward and get the help you and your wives deserve....

Be brave brothers

 

[rgranger]

maybe a group discussion forum...oh wait, never mind...

 

[rgranger]

Hey, do I need to drain the oil to adjust the slack or just the coolant and lay the bike over on the left side? I think that is how I installed the rekluse on the ktm.

 

[stainlesscycle]

just the coolant. lay bike on side like clutch install.

 

[gasgasman]

lay the bike over on the left side?

Yes Rob, assume your usual riding position. Ouch...

Sorry, just had to.

 

[Zhack]

Careful the bike is not resting on the shifter when you take the side cover off. The side cover prevents intrusion of the shift shaft and if there is pressur on it when the cover is removed, the shaft will be displaced inwards and bugger up the scorpion plates and shaft retaining spring.....ask me how I know

 

[stainlesscycle]

hah, so i was right! i thought it pushed the shift shaft over.

 

[motogroove]

Careful the bike is not resting on the shifter when you take the side cover off. The side cover prevents intrusion of the shift shaft and if there is pressur on it when the cover is removed, the shaft will be displaced inwards and bugger up the scorpion plates and shaft retaining spring.....ask me how I know

Jeez, I just get done making sure my balls aren't displaced, and now my shaft might not be properly retained!?!?!

Seems like it's clicking around OK...

I will not obsess.
<100 times on the blackboard>

The perfect is the enemy of the good.
-Voltaire

 

[rgranger]

Yeah, I know you care... when you going out again. I did a short ride at skull creek last weekend with Al. the miners have gobbled up more of the north west. I am looking forward to getting back to some forest rides. How are the rest of the guys? Jeff/Robbie/Johnny? Are they back to riding?
I may just get all the fluid drained tonight and do the work on the stand.
Thanks for the tip on the shifter! Good to know for the rekluse tunings!

Yes Rob, assume your usual riding position. Ouch...

Sorry, just had to.

 

[motogroove]

Thinking about how this PV governor works, I imagined the balls durring a sustained WFO moment with the PV fully open.
Suddenly, there's new meaning to riding "balls out".

 

[GGEvo]

I made the powervalve adjustment yesterday. Photo below and as you can see there was a heap of free play. I now have slight tension against the stop bolt and I expect this will transform my bike (in addition to the high comp head I installed). Testing tomorrow so will report back findings.

 

[Jakobi]

I made the powervalve adjustment yesterday. Photo below and as you can see there was a heap of free play. I now have slight tension against the stop bolt and I expect this will transform my bike (in addition to the high comp head I installed). Testing tomorrow so will report back findings.

Holy slops!! So you're still getting that bike back together? Farrrk mate she's been down for a while.. You'll have forgotten the feeling and be overwhelmed by the improvement.. Better get an NEDW/NEDJ needle to throw in there with it too. You'll be as happy as a pig in mud.

 

[gasgasec200]

I'll admit that when I read Zhack's post the first time I was thinking "oh no, dude, don't bend it!"

Then, yesterday I removed mine and straightened it out maybe one or two degrees*. While I was initially fooled that I was tight against the stop, the authoritative sound I heard was the rod hitting the front of the case hole. I'm really still not quite sure how I was fooled on such a simple inspection - could'a sworn I saw it touching the bolt.

Before I discovered that, I was trying to get scientific about measuring the "very slight" preload at the stop, looking for 80% swizzlestick deformation. Shocked to only achieve 22.373% swizzlestick deformation, I then discovered I was not getting full closure (story of my life, but let's no go there).

This is not a factory procedure because Spanish swizzlesticks are different.

All joking aside, it was easy enough to pull off the rod and straighten it a hair. Heat the nylock nut on the PV actuator plate (I used a lighter) to ease the nut off without snapping the post off.

*Thanks to Zhack for his angle on the thread.

Hey guys my english is not very good so I dont understand everything.

But I need help, I have a boring sound when I gas the bike up, you know sounds like a bolt is not tighten...
And someone said check the valves and now I read this..

Ehm, your pictures, that springthing is touching the bolt, IS IT SUPPOSED TO TOUCH the bolt or not?
And if it does I guess I have a freeplay downthere, maybe thats why it sounds lame ?

thanks guys .

btw, do I need to put shims down there or just adjust that bolt u guys showed downthere?

edit: his pics is on side 6, in the start..