Powervalve issue?

Hey guys my english is not very good so I dont understand everything.

But I need help, I have a boring sound when I gas the bike up, you know sounds like a bolt is not tighten...
And someone said check the valves and now I read this..

Ehm, your pictures, that springthing is touching the bolt, IS IT SUPPOSED TO TOUCH the bolt or not?
And if it does I guess I have a freeplay downthere, maybe thats why it sounds lame ?

thanks guys ;).

btw, do I need to put shims down there or just adjust that bolt u guys showed downthere?:)

edit: his pics is on side 6, in the start..

Post 78 by GGEVO shows a PV with slop. Notice the plate not touching the bolt. It will make the bottom end soft.

This is how it should look.
 

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Post 78 by GGEVO shows a PV with slop. Notice the plate not touching the bolt. It will make the bottom end soft.

This is how it should look.

ok thanks much.
Ok so it's not allowed to touch the bolt ? Maybe thats why its strange sound with full gas ?
 
The picture I posted shows the powervalve in the fully closed position. (With the actuator arm disconnected as the cylinder is off the bike in the pic). The arm is to connect to the pin, with the plate in the position shown in my pic.

You can run the bike with the cover off and watch the plate move in its action. The main thing here is to note that it should be fully closed at idle (up against the bolt), and swing around as the revs increase, hitting full open in the upper rpm (other side of plate against the bolt).

Also, if you disconnect the actuator arm from the plate you should be able to manually move the plate in its motions. It should glide smooth and easily in both directions. If you have any binding or resistance you'll need to service the PV assembly.

Special note: Don't try to move the plate around with the arm attached. It will dislodge a ball lower in setup and stop the system working.
 
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Arm Binding

Check the clearance of the pushrod to the opening from PV chamber down to cylinder. Mine (and others were) binding here preventing the arm making full contact to the stopper. I had to remove my PV actuator rod and bend a "jog" in it to prevent it binding . Works great now.
 
Check the clearance of the pushrod to the opening from PV chamber down to cylinder. Mine (and others were) binding here preventing the arm making full contact to the stopper. I had to remove my PV actuator rod and bend a "jog" in it to prevent it binding . Works great now.

Ok thanks guys very much.

But you havent answered my question, at least not full of it :D

that thing I will "bend" little, can that thing make the sound because of touching the bolt?? :)

Damn I'm useless in english sry guys :D but I try...
 
Hey guys my english is not very good so I dont understand everything.

But I need help, I have a boring sound when I gas the bike up, you know sounds like a bolt is not tighten...
And someone said check the valves and now I read this..

Ehm, your pictures, that springthing is touching the bolt, IS IT SUPPOSED TO TOUCH the bolt or not?
And if it does I guess I have a freeplay downthere, maybe thats why it sounds lame ?

thanks guys ;).

btw, do I need to put shims down there or just adjust that bolt u guys showed downthere?:)

edit: his pics is on side 6, in the start..

Sorry, Kind of misunderstanding the question a little bit. The plate is meant to touch the bolt in the fully closed position, and again at the other extreme of the fully open. If its loose and not touching the bolt when closes it can rattle and make noise, but more so at idle and the power will be soft/weak.

If you hear a noise when revving the engine then it could be the exhaust rubbing on the flange which will stop if replacing the o-rings. Push the pipe with your boot and see if it still makes the noise.
 
PS. Post a pic, or even video would be better. It might help bridge the language barrier a bit :D
 
PS. Post a pic, or even video would be better. It might help bridge the language barrier a bit :D

Thanks for helping me.

I will post pics when I've come so far, atm I'm changing bearings and "rod", the piston is in that rod thing u know :)

Hopefully I get it all today so I can put all things together so I will come back do u guys later.

But one more thing.

I've seen u guys putting schims down on the PV thing, is it nessescery or can I just lose the bolt down there and fix it that way so there is no "extra" room?
thanks
 
Haven't read whole thread, just be aware to melt nylock nut before trying to remove that nut that holds the wire linkage in pic. They are only m4 & like to shear off, that is a pain but repairable. I forgot last time.

No shims, just loosen & readjust lever in cases. Becomes obvious when you do it but the thread help with pics.
 
I can move the rod with my hand From closed to open very easy, does this mean I have probs? If so whats gone wrong and how can I sort this? Manythanks....
 
Haven't read whole thread, just be aware to melt nylock nut before trying to remove that nut that holds the wire linkage in pic. They are only m4 & like to shear off, that is a pain but repairable. I forgot last time.

No shims, just loosen & readjust lever in cases. Becomes obvious when you do it but the thread help with pics.

X2 on heating up the nylock. Snapped my bolt off and had to weld a new threaded end on it. Not a pain if you have a welder.
 
X2 on heating up the nylock. Snapped my bolt off and had to weld a new threaded end on it. Not a pain if you have a welder.
Wish I knew that 3 weeks ago.....
022.jpg

Lucky for me a machinist buddy owed me a favor and made me a knew one. Saved me about $35
 
I had been experiencing poor low end performance on my 2011 Gas Gas EC250. I jetted the bike but the performance continued to be bad and actually degrade. Along with the degradation of low RPM power I noticed an increase in a rattling sound. The sound occurred at idle only and was not the chain. I ruled out the clutch as the sound was present with or without the clutch engaged. I decided to investigate the Power Valve system. Below is what I did to fix the issue. I am not a Gas Gas Mechanic. Please consult your manual or a qualified mechanic. I am not responsible. I am merely offering what I did to fix my issue. Your mileage may vary. (Some pictures are mine and some from the internet).

1. REMOVE EXHAUST EXPANSION CHAMBER
? Mine had two mounting screws on the pipe connecting to frame via brackets
? Also remove the 2 springs holding the pipe on to the front of the cylinder.
2. DRAIN COOLANT
? Open the drain screw on the right hand case.
? Safely discard and use fresh for reassembly.
3. DISCONNECT COOLANT HOSE
4. DRAIN OIL
? This is not necessary if you choose to lay your bike over on its side
? I choose to drain my oil and do the work on the kick stand. (I change oil often anyway)
5. REMOVE KICK STARTER
? There is a small bolt on the face side.
? Make note of the orientation of the lever so you can re assemble the same way.

6. REMOVE THE SIDE CASE
? You will need to remove 2 long screws from clutch cover as they go all the way through
? You may need to disconnect brake pedal from rod as well.
? I removed the small case over the coolant impeller and the impeller also. This may not be necessary.
? Take your time here. You do not want to pry off the side case with a screw driver and mess up the case. You may end up with sealing issues later on. There are 2 guide pins that force you to take the case off straight out.
7. ASSESS THE POWER VALVE
? The actuator plate should be solid against the stop bolt while the bike is idle.
? Also note the actuator connecting rod for clearance against the case opening at the bottom of the power valve chamber
? DO NOT move the power valve assembly through its full range of motion. The governor has 6 ball bearings that are held in place by the power valve spring applying back pressure. You run the risk of creating a gap in the system and having all the ball bearings fall out.
8. ADJUST IF NECCESARY
? If your actuator place is not ?against the stop? at idle you need to adjust. This means that that the power valve ?flapper? is not fully closed when it should be. The results in low RPM power.
? Take care to understand how it all connects before you loosen anything.
1. Loosen the set screw until it no longer holds the shaft in position. Note that everything can easily fall apart at this point. So use both hands and take your time.
2. Rotate the entire bell crank, rod and actuator plate until the plate is against the stop and re tighten the set screw. If you cannot rotate far enough for the plate to hit the stop, examine the rod and see if it is binding on the case opening.
? If the rod is binding against the case, you will need to disconnect the rod and do some careful bending.
1. There are 2 nuts that need to be removed. One on the actuator assembly and one on the end of the bell crank. Take your time and do NOT use air or electric tools. The post on the actuator plate can be fragile. Some people will slightly heat up the nylon inside the nut to make it easier to loosen.
2. Once the rod and bell crank are out you can make your bends. Be very patient and make very small bends. Test the fit after each slight bend until you have it to where the rod never touches the sides at all throughout the full range of motion and the actuator plate rests against the stop. NOTE: Being that the rod and bell crank are not connected to the main power valve governor, there is no risk of the ball bearings falling out
9. PREPARE FOR REASSEMBLY
? Clean off all the old gasket material
? Make sure there is no coolant in the engine case
? Add the case gasket to the case and rest on the two guide pins
? Slowly push the case back on. Note that you must put the case on very straight. There is a low tolerance on this fit. Do not try to force it. Take your time and it will seat.
? Replace bolts and torque to spec a little at a time. Use the attached picture to help determine which bots go where. Image was obtained from Gas Gas Riders Forum.
? Reconnect exhaust, coolant hose and brake lever
? Add oil and coolant to manual specs.

gasgaspv1.jpg


gasgaspv2.jpg


gasgascoverbolts.jpg


Here is a PDF of this all.
http://skramnor.com/FILES/pixforpostings/2011gasgaspvtutorial.pdf
 
Be careful if you lay the bike on its side to remove cover

Not sure if this applies to all years but it does apply to my 01 XC 300. When laying the bike on its side to remove clutch cover check. First check to make sure the shifter is not resting on the ground. If it is put something under the handle bar end to make sure the shifter is not touching the ground. Otherwise the case wouldn't go back on because the shifter shaft gets pushed out on the clutch side. Depending on your bar width this may not be an issue. I use the Burleson bend Moose oversize bars as they were the narrowest bars I could find without cutting them down.

Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread just thought this was worth mentioning.

skraMnoR, Great job with the documentation and pictures.
 
My bike has developed a rattle in the last couple of months (06 EC300) and i am pretty sure its due for a top end job. I replaced the pipe o-rings to try and stop the rattle, didn't help. I have gone all over the bike with it running trying to find something loose- pipe, skid plate, etc.- can't find anything. Some say the new top end will get rid of the rattle. I came across this thread and have read it through twice and went out in the garage several times to look at the parts on my bike. My actuator plate is fully against the allen head stop bolt. I can roll it off the stop bolt without much force (I also read I should not be doing that, hope nothing fell out, i did not hear anything drop in there- read that part later on...). If it were off the stop bolt this would be a clear cut solution but as it is I am not sure its needs adjustment, $30 something in side case gaskets to open it up and make sure. I can reach in the exhaust opening and in any position the pv itself has some slight wiggle to it. I just can't sense much "slackness" in the actuator. I can't run the bike to see what it does running because its partly torn down getting ready for a top end. The arm is centered in the hole, no problem with that, its is not hitting the sides anyplace. Not sure what to do. I'll try to put up a pic of the mech at rest as it sits right now... Any advice?
 
...check out the pic and let me know what you think. It looks fine to me. But then what is that sound? Can the parts of the actual PV wear out? Guess i'll know more when i tear it down. Fork and shock already out to be rebuilt. And as far as low end power loss can't notice much there apart from likely needs rings anyway.
 

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