Check your float level. I lowered mine significantly from stock.
2010 EC300 Factory Jetting Specs - WTF?
- Thread starter JP4
- Start date
Check your float level. I lowered mine significantly from stock.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
As mentioned, check your float height regarding the bike loosing fuel while on the stand. You want to be able to lay the bike over to 45 degrees either side before it will overflow.
The difference between the needles is 1/2 a clip position. This applies to the entire N3C/E range.
N3CH#2 = N3EH#1.5
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Also, as far as fuel consumption goes, I did just over 70kms on my setup, and can still see the fuel around the 3L mark on the left hand side of the tank.
coopernicus
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Dumb question: What ratio are your running for pre-mix with the N3CH needle? I have a friend trying to get a stock 2010 300 just right and the deadness right off of idle here between 5280 and 8000 feet is resisting the needles we have at hand (stock, CEK, LTR, and N3EJ), a wide range of pilot jets (38-52), and slides (we tried an 8 and a 9). He is running 44:1 unleaded premium pump gas. Other than this the bike runs really well on the N1EF...The ultimate solution may be adding a tooth or two to the rear sprocket but he would like the option of running stock gearing for long distance rides. Thanks for the info!
Eric
Eric
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I personally run GRO Synth 7 50:1 as recommended by GasGas.
The N3EJ is leaner off idle than the N3CH. You need to determine if you are lean or rich off idle. Does it burble? or hesitate? Boowang!!? Wahat effect does the air screw and idle screw have? Are you getting any spooge? does the plug load up if you chug around for a while?
You are at some altitude, but have not specified temp.
coopernicus
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Jakobi,
Sorry, I should have added that info:
Rich or Lean: Rich...I had him pull off the seat and filter and ride it in the cold air! It ran better but it's not practical!
Temps: 45-70 degrees F
Burble: No, deadness as in "no significant power"...Can overcome by adding more throttle and clutch slippage. If sloppy or tired, the bike will stall pulling out like a 125.
Air Screw: Does not help that much...
Spooge: We always get spooge at altitude...Not much, though, compared to my fine running older bikes!
Load up: No, it does not seem to load up.
He's looking to buy some needles and just wanted to know what ratio folks are running to factor that into his decision. Thank you!
Eric
Sorry, I should have added that info:
Rich or Lean: Rich...I had him pull off the seat and filter and ride it in the cold air! It ran better but it's not practical!
Temps: 45-70 degrees F
Burble: No, deadness as in "no significant power"...Can overcome by adding more throttle and clutch slippage. If sloppy or tired, the bike will stall pulling out like a 125.
Air Screw: Does not help that much...
Spooge: We always get spooge at altitude...Not much, though, compared to my fine running older bikes!
Load up: No, it does not seem to load up.
He's looking to buy some needles and just wanted to know what ratio folks are running to factor that into his decision. Thank you!
Eric
Jakobi
Super Moderator
swazi_matt
Active member
thanks guys will strip it down again and lower the float level (i rarely ride flat open so may drop it a fair bit)
also thinking of changing to a from a 175 to a 172 main and a 40 to a 38 pilot
ride mostly between 600-1200m in either hot/humid or warm/dry (which is the season we are heading into)
will also disconnect my cable carb!
also thinking of changing to a from a 175 to a 172 main and a 40 to a 38 pilot
ride mostly between 600-1200m in either hot/humid or warm/dry (which is the season we are heading into)
will also disconnect my cable carb!
swazi_matt
Active member
so basically my needle is 1/2 a clip position leaner than your N3CH?
swazi_matt
Active member
ok clear, and since i ride at a slightly higher altitude to you then i should be able to use the same jets as you and make up the difference in altitude with the slightly leaner needle and air screw
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Lots and lots of variables come into play. Individual engine characteristics, Temp, Altitude.
What was your jetting previously that isnt working now?
What symptoms is your bike showing? Rich/Lean where? At what throttle positions?
What has changed environmentally?
For example:
My bike was tuned
38 N3EG #1 175 100-1000M 30C 80%+ Humidity - Slight burble off idle
It has now started to cool off into winter. Temps dropping between 5 - 10C. The rain has also cleared up with RH between 50-70%.
By changing needles I leaned the lower burble out. G diameter - H diameter. I also effectively richened the needle position by half a clip.
New setup
38 N3CH #2 175 100-1000M 26C 55%RH
What was your jetting previously that isnt working now?
What symptoms is your bike showing? Rich/Lean where? At what throttle positions?
What has changed environmentally?
For example:
My bike was tuned
38 N3EG #1 175 100-1000M 30C 80%+ Humidity - Slight burble off idle
It has now started to cool off into winter. Temps dropping between 5 - 10C. The rain has also cleared up with RH between 50-70%.
By changing needles I leaned the lower burble out. G diameter - H diameter. I also effectively richened the needle position by half a clip.
New setup
38 N3CH #2 175 100-1000M 26C 55%RH
Jakobi
Super Moderator
ok clear, and since i ride at a slightly higher altitude to you then i should be able to use the same jets as you and make up the difference in altitude with the slightly leaner needle and air screw
Have you checked the float height yet? That is the first thing that needs to be addressed.
swazi_matt
Active member
Yes first thing I will do is set the float. Then disconnect the choke
It was almost fine before. 175 40 n3eh #2 at between 600-1300m but it always had a bit of a sPlutter going from slow to wfo which is why I think the 172 main should be better. There was often a bit of spooge out the exhaust I also think with the fan I can afford to go slightly leaner
It was almost fine before. 175 40 n3eh #2 at between 600-1300m but it always had a bit of a sPlutter going from slow to wfo which is why I think the 172 main should be better. There was often a bit of spooge out the exhaust I also think with the fan I can afford to go slightly leaner
swazi_matt
Active member
plug chop question
thinking of giving this plug chop thing a test, now GG recommends the BR8EG but i do not want to waste a $15 plugs so if i use the BR8ES which is about $5 to get the jetting right will it then be off if i move back to EG?
thinking of giving this plug chop thing a test, now GG recommends the BR8EG but i do not want to waste a $15 plugs so if i use the BR8ES which is about $5 to get the jetting right will it then be off if i move back to EG?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Some people say to use a fresh plug for each chop, but I have found that even using the same plug you will notice differences between whats too rich and too lean. If its running too lean or hot it will burn off any carbon. If its running too rich you'll see excess.
I have read about the super keen using a fresh plug and cutting the threading back to inspect the porcelain area. I just look in there using a mini torch.
I have read about the super keen using a fresh plug and cutting the threading back to inspect the porcelain area. I just look in there using a mini torch.
stainlesscycle
Site Sponsor
jet with cheap plugs. they're usually easier to read too....
