2013 ec250r

hamilton said:
I settled on 5.2 10mm preload 100mm sag. 160lbs rider weight. But the shock has a weird rebound kick on certian hits I couldn't get rid of without a revalve.
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Thanks hamilton. I'm 165lbs before I get geared up.

I've noticed with the Ohlins gear that they often require a bit more HSR. To me it always feels like any time the shock ends up deep into the stroke it unloads a bit too fast.
 
I've noticed with the Ohlins gear that they often require a bit more HSR. To me it always feels like any time the shock ends up deep into the stroke it unloads a bit too fast.[/QUOTE]

Yeah slowing the rebound (clicker) to compensate, just makes the ride harsh. It works extremely well once sorted.
 
Indeed. Closing the rebound needle up has an effect on both circuits. If you ever get a chance to play with the spring off the shock its very noticable. Ideally with these shocks you'll want to stay out more than 15 clicks on the rebound to avoid adding in too much compression (harshness).
 
So I've got around 500kms/12hrs on her now. Still on the stock suspension. I haven't felt the need to play with too much as of yet. The back end occassionally kicks on the bigger square edges, but mostly its behaving itself. I did a small stint on a 5.4 rate (not tested) and found it too harsh. The front forks are very plush, but can wallow a bit in the chop. I'm getting along with them quite well without much more than a few clicker adjustments.

Engine wise, I'm happy with the power curve, but think it could use a little more fuel in the midrange, maybe a bit less in the top end. Today riding a lot of mud when I'd open her up she'd sputter a bit. Maybe it was water getting pulled through the filter. Maybe it was a bit rich. Off the bottom it feels pretty good. I'm quite tempted to try a suzuki needle in it. Fuel economy has been pretty good.

Bent the lhs side panel tab off the subframe a few rides back which was easy enough to straighten out again. All in all she's a pretty nice ride. Well balanced and keeps the grin on.
 
Received a 50T supersprox stealth for my birthday from the missus the other day! Put it on today, but haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Based on previous experiences I'd say its probably just what the bike needs. I noticed last ride that with the 48T the engine has a tendancy to fall off the pipe. Ie, its just a bit harder to keep in the meat of the power. Its really nice to lug and chug off the bottom, but when you want to twist it, if you haven't really wound out the gear it'll come in below the curve on the next gear. Mainly noticable 3rd/4th/5th. Everything fit alright on the stock chain. I still have a little clearance to the mud guard/shock flap with the MX51 110/90-18, but the chain adjusters are at the tighter end of the spectrum.
 
Jakobi said:
Received a 50T supersprox stealth for my birthday from the missus the other day! Put it on today, but haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Based on previous experiences I'd say its probably just what the bike needs. I noticed last ride that with the 48T the engine has a tendancy to fall off the pipe. Ie, its just a bit harder to keep in the meat of the power. Its really nice to lug and chug off the bottom, but when you want to twist it, if you haven't really wound out the gear it'll come in below the curve on the next gear. Mainly noticable 3rd/4th/5th. Everything fit alright on the stock chain. I still have a little clearance to the mud guard/shock flap with the MX51 110/90-18, but the chain adjusters are at the tighter end of the spectrum.
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You have a nimble little bike with that short wheelbase then ;)

What colours the Supersprox ?
 
Sealing the airbox up the way I did seems to be producing some ok results too. It definitely still leaks and allows some water though, but keeps enough out to charge on through most creeks and bog holes. A few times through the day I'd just reach down and squeeze the drain open and let the buildup run out.

Was a fair bit of water around too! The day before this, both areas were ridable. The next! up to 2M under water. The second pic, we watched the water rise 200mm in around 10-15mins.

1497422_786804788015111_2084932379_n_zps8d3780f8.jpg


1601275_786804911348432_2091115861_n_zpsfe269d6a.jpg
 
I put a 50t on my 300 , I prefer the 49 to be honest.
On a side note , I was talking to Danny mcanny a while ago and he said 47 was his preferred sprocket , but then he will be riding a gear or two higher than most of us lol .
Looks like you have as much rain as we do jake
 
I have no issues getting around on the 48 tooth rear at all. I think the bike would easily pull even taller gearing, and doing so smooths everything out. I enjoy that having a bit taller forces you into committing to line selection and momentum more than just clicking back and grunting too, however the big one for me was in the higher gears with a noticable drop in torque as it'd fall off the pipe, and then a surge when you either clutch it up, or wait for it to come back on. The shorter gears just stay on the boil easier, and I'm more than happy to click it up a gear and ride on. With 13/50 I barely use 1st at all, and can still go faster than I need to in 6th. I prefer the snappier delivery, even if it means clicking through the gears a bit more often.

I'll being servicing the forks shortly, and then next time I drop the transfluid I'll take the time to check out the preload on the PV. I have a feeling that its got a bit of slack in it too.
 
Jakobi said:
I have no issues getting around on the 48 tooth rear at all. I think the bike would easily pull even taller gearing, and doing so smooths everything out. I enjoy that having a bit taller forces you into committing to line selection and momentum more than just clicking back and grunting too, however the big one for me was in the higher gears with a noticable drop in torque as it'd fall off the pipe, and then a surge when you either clutch it up, or wait for it to come back on. The shorter gears just stay on the boil easier, and I'm more than happy to click it up a gear and ride on. With 13/50 I barely use 1st at all, and can still go faster than I need to in 6th. I prefer the snappier delivery, even if it means clicking through the gears a bit more often.

I'll being servicing the forks shortly, and then next time I drop the transfluid I'll take the time to check out the preload on the PV. I have a feeling that its got a bit of slack in it too.
Click to expand...
My power valve had slack in it when I had a look , I put a little extra in and now the power is quite like a moto x power band with good torque on the bottom , I like it though :D
 
Jakobi said:
I have the galfer wave rotors on both my 2010 and 2013. The rear brake feels like its just not biting at the disc. Possibly still burning the assembly grease/oil off the disk. I have given them a clean. The front is more to do with actual feel at the lever. The brakes still work quite well, but the lever has a soft progressive feel rather than a very firm bite.
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Took my first ride on my new 2013 300EC yesterday, first a little rocky/muddy tight trail and then some motocross on a wet heavy sand track. After some 20 minutes on the track I lost my rear brake. I have never boiled my brakes before so I was surprised. I let it rest for a while and it came back, but it never felt good.
I cleaned the discs with brake cleaner before I stated it.
 
I've got some Amsoil Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid to put in mine at some stage.

Last week I bled the fronts with some Silkolene I had carried over and it made some improvement. I don't think it will ever firm up like the 2010, but the feel is just more progressive and the actual stopping power isn't inhibited.

Still haven't pulled the RHS to check the PV for slack. I'll do it when the stock o-rings flog out or at the next trans fluid change.

Currently have the forks pulled down and ready for an initial fluid change. I'll likley take the bleed shim out of the rebound stack and move to a 5wt fluid and then evaluate from there. The forks are very supple and can feel a touch busy on choppy downhills, but in the loose rock they feel much better than my previous TTX equipped Sachs. Considering there are 2 rates difference in springs I think I'll stick with the stock rates at least for a bit more.
 
Worked out some new stacks and ordered the shims required. 44 in total! Completely rebuilt the mid, rebound and base valve. I can elaborate on what I did if anyone is interested.

Meanwhile I had been riding the bike with the Ohlins TTX carts from my 2010 model. Bike felt really good with them, but alas they must go back on the old girl! The zokes bolted back up with PFP at 2 turns in from full out. Rebound at 13 clicks, and Comp at 15. After a quick ride in the rain I brought the comp out to 17 and look forward to getting it in the elements and seeing how they handle. Definitely feels much more precise for lack of a better word. The vaige mushy feeling that some may consider to be 'plush' didn't really feel sharp enough for me. Now they do! Lets see if they still have that firm but plush nature!

In the meantime I've now put 23 hours or just under 1000kms on the bike. Been through a few jetting combos from 40 N3CW#3 175 to half a clip leaner - 40 N3EW#2 175. Then onto 40 N3CJ#3 172. None have felt perfect. The first setting was a bit rich and took a lot to clear out in the morning. Would run grunty, but smoked and spooged heavily. The next setting was crisp and sharp, but lacked a bit in the 1/4 throttle grunt, but much better off idle, and wild up top! The N3CJ did the load up when trying to warm it up and with the rain it just wasn't productive. Wouldn't idle well, would just splutter hard when getting on the throttle as there was no traction to be had. Something its been doing a lot. I'm not sure if I'm rich on the main.. need to get choppin!

Just for a comparison I went and dropped 40 NEDW#2 172 in. I'm just going to ride it like this and see how it goes. Should run clean off the bottom again, and then come into some more fuel in the mid range. Will highlight if I'm fat on the main too.

So now we're just waiting for a sunny day with some good traction to go and push things a little! Brap Brap!
 
Few more hours on it, couple of rides on previous jetting. Details here

Suspension update should deserve a thread of its own too with posted stacks etc. Maybe at a future date. I've revalved a second time now and softened the base valve back towards where it would be stock. Cartridge bleeding details here

I'll get this bike dialled in yet! Hoping the forks will be much better! I had a little play this afternoon and was freaked out by how bad it was handling roots and ledges etc around the yard. Back into the shed, and checked the rebound - WIDE OPEN! Closed back up to 13 clicks and much better. Currently runnning stock springs, PFP2.5 in, R13 out, C13 out. I think in the field I may come out a few clicks on the comp, but it feels close from the short ride. I'll likely up the spring rates to .44 yet and then drop the oil level back down from 350cc to around 300cc.

The shock needs work. Will confirm clicker positions soon.
 
Jakobi said:
Few more hours on it, couple of rides on previous jetting. Details here

Suspension update should deserve a thread of its own too with posted stacks etc. Maybe at a future date. I've revalved a second time now and softened the base valve back towards where it would be stock. Cartridge bleeding details here

I'll get this bike dialled in yet! Hoping the forks will be much better! I had a little play this afternoon and was freaked out by how bad it was handling roots and ledges etc around the yard. Back into the shed, and checked the rebound - WIDE OPEN! Closed back up to 13 clicks and much better. Currently runnning stock springs, PFP2.5 in, R13 out, C13 out. I think in the field I may come out a few clicks on the comp, but it feels close from the short ride. I'll likely up the spring rates to .44 yet and then drop the oil level back down from 350cc to around 300cc.

The shock needs work. Will confirm clicker positions soon.
Click to expand...
Patiently waiting.....;):p
 
I also had some harsh symptoms on mine because I used 340cc . Moved back to standard 320cc because I'm also running stiffer springs and felling is much better .
 
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