I am worry about NECJ #2 is much lean? I was planning to use NEDJ #2 . NECJ is half clip leaner than NEDJ .
EC250R 2012 high RPM issue
- Thread starter blamir
- Start date
I am worry about NECJ #2 is much lean? I was planning to use NEDJ #2 . NECJ is half clip leaner than NEDJ .
If you are worried run it in clip 3 and see what you think. The NECx needles are best run in clip 3, if they are run in clip 2 they lose the silky smooth power delivery they are known for.
As I said if the needle you have in clip 3 is still a bit rich you can go a half clip leaner by using NEDJ #2
Thanks n_green,
I will try #3 , necj absolutely changed my gasgas character. You are best guys.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I'm at NEDW#2 in my 250, but I like some snap too. You've got the right idea with your progression and testing. Try NECJ#3 and if its too rich or burbles go to the NEDJ#2 and you'll be right in the middle. Fuel economy should improve from what it was stock considerably.
Avoid N3xx needles if you want tame power. They transition onto the pipe quite a bit harder.
In the gearbox run whatever you want. Lots of people have their own opinions about what works and what doesn't. Quality oils with longer intervals or cheaper fluids more often. Just make sure the oil is suitable for use with wet clutches (no friction modifiers) and it should work well. Most find a thinner oil has less drag.
Avoid N3xx needles if you want tame power. They transition onto the pipe quite a bit harder.
In the gearbox run whatever you want. Lots of people have their own opinions about what works and what doesn't. Quality oils with longer intervals or cheaper fluids more often. Just make sure the oil is suitable for use with wet clutches (no friction modifiers) and it should work well. Most find a thinner oil has less drag.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I agree completely with the above statement.
(and... In my 250 I like the NECJ in #2 position. )
For oil, I like a thinner oil with a high shear strength. Really good oil with these characteristics means no clutch drag with the close tolerances of the GasGas clutch.
Most of my two strokes get Rotella "Synthetic" 5w40, but my primary bike and those with Rekluse autoclutches get Amsoil synthetic 0w40 4 stroke engine oil. My utility engines and the CRFs and XRs get non-synthetic Rotella 15w40 (or Castrol or Valvoline 20w50). (Note: The Rotella 5w40 is not a true synthetic, but is able to claim such due to it's specific refining process and the additives used in it's multi-viscosity blending mixture.
Use what works well for you. I tried a lot of oils before I settled on my favorites.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
I've used Amsoil 4T 10W with good results in the past, but of late have been using their sythetic transmission fluid which is designed for high torque applications. Its not exactly cheap, but on par with what I'd expect, and I can rack up quite a few hours on it before I start to feel the gears become a bit notchy. Clutch action is suberb.
I found this https://www.motul.com/en/en/products/oils-lubricants/transoil-expert-10w40?f[range]=21&f[viscosity]=28
Do you prefer any special transmission oil like this?
Do you prefer any special transmission oil like this?
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
This technical article written by a former customer of mine, Eric Kangas, who is an engineer and very exacting in his work. It's available here on this forum under "Technical Articles".
http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/gear_oil_evaluation.html
Full list of technical articles: http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/technical_articles.html
.
http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/gear_oil_evaluation.html
Full list of technical articles: http://www.gasgasrider.org/html/technical_articles.html
.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Jim, I've been using Amsoil Super Shift ATF. Specifically designed for high torque output and use with wet clutches. Think drag car with a high stall auto box. Has to lubricate gears, promote good clutch engagement/disengagement, reduce wear, and most importantly not slip at high loads.
Its quite a thin viscosity, but works well. The only gripe I have is that when the bike has sat for a week sometimes the discs will stick a bit. Quick rock forward and back before starting and its happy times.
Its quite a thin viscosity, but works well. The only gripe I have is that when the bike has sat for a week sometimes the discs will stick a bit. Quick rock forward and back before starting and its happy times.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
it is breaking in with wot. Also bike was not start easy.
Considering that you've been following the recommendations of "the Australian racing team", you might be seeing the results of using a very high flash point oil. The Q Stealth will be messy compared to other mufflers due to the internal design. It has a flow reversal that makes the oil coat the insides, creating more spooge.
Jet for how the bike runs and feels, not for spooge. Maybe you should repack the muffler to get back to a good starting point. The original N1EF needle could have loaded the packing with a lot of oil.
Jet for how the bike runs and feels, not for spooge. Maybe you should repack the muffler to get back to a good starting point. The original N1EF needle could have loaded the packing with a lot of oil.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Excellent advice, Neil.
blamir,
Here is my recommendation for where you are now in your quest.
The 40 pilot is a bit too lean, causing the starting issue, and the change in the clip position is causing the "rich condition symptoms" at low throttle settings.
Give the NECJ one more chance, and after repacking the silencer (to keep from getting a false reading on your jetting test), try going back to the 42 pilot jet and moving the clip to the second groove from the top to lean out (and clean up) the "off idle" power delivery.
Then, give it a good long multi-ride test.
I think you will like the power and feel of the power delivery.
These are my current settings, and spooge is minimal on it.
Repacking my muffler is so hard now
You know i could not find only a needle in Turkey so waited 15 days for shipping. I loved NECJ#2 it was soo clean and powerfull but you saw my last photo with necj#2. I just wanted to try necj#3 for a bit smooth power but how it is change bike responses so bad. Just dropped one needle clip from 2 to 3 .
Anyway i am going to use my bike with previous settings. Is there any trick to change needle without remove everything
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Anyway i am going to use my bike with previous settings. Is there any trick to change needle without remove everything
My procedure with the newer carbs and bikes:
Remove seat
Remove the fuel tank restraining strap.
Prop the rear of the fuel tank with something to raise the rear of it at least an inch.
Loosen the clamp at the reed valve:
Loosen the clamp at the air box:
Rotate carburetor to give access to the top.
Remove top and slide, etc.
Reverse steps.
Enjoy the ride.
Pre-2003 models, you didn't need to remove the seat or raise the rear of the tank. There was more clearance above the carb.
Good Riding!
Jim
Jim's method is fine if you need to change jets. If you only need to change the needle, completely remove the seat and tank. Then remove the top of the carb to get the slide out. Works for me.
