S3 Race 250 Port Matched Cylinder and Head

djroggen said:
You should not need to drain the whole system, if you just take the bolts out of the rad hose connection and pop it loose there is enough suction in the system to keep the antifreeze in.

My Star Head leaked with the bolts they gave me too, the bolts look sweet, but I had to replace them. I used the factory head bolts so I could actually tighten them, and added some antiseize while I was at it. They didn't have much room but once you get them tightened down they fit perfectly.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. No issues with the head bolts leaking at all. I had considered using the other allen head bolts I was using on the 300 as they were a size larger but stuck with the ones supplied. They haven't leaked at all other than the frog wee :D No issues tightening them either but I do have a complete set of socket attachments for allen heads which provide a much better fit than any allen key. Also allows me to clip them onto the torque wrench.
 
Well seeing as I slapped these pics up on DBW might as well post em in here as well.

Here she is.. Miss 2010 Euro, downsized and upgraded.. Isn't she beautiful!

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She needs more knob in her rear end
 
I always liked the 2010 colors. Going to make my '12 black/red if possible, white is for kitchen appliances.;)
 
Haha Glenn,

I have to admit it was the 2010 models that sparked me to buy the Gasser. Then I saw the black and white and fell in love with the race model. I actually bought a 2010 Race over an early model 2011. The 2010 came with a few extra goodies. I think next time around I'll aim for Black and white again and maybe only a little red here and there. Or maybe Black White and Gold. :D
 
Red is the most durable color, my old '07 still looks good. White is a PIA to get clean and looks like crap fast. Plus, I had a guy stop and ask me how I liked my Husky!:eek:
 
Cheers for the positive feedback. Husky, Honda, they can call her what they want. She rides superbly.

I tried the NOZJ#2 needle. It still can't get past the first rich taper cleanly. I moved to the NECJ#3 (suzi) and it feels alright. Very linear and maybe still a litte rich into the second taper. I might try half a clip leaner yet. So far my best response has been with the N3CJ#3 so I will likely stick with it along with a 42P and 178/180 main if the NEDJ#2 doesn't work out.

Whats next?? Can anyone tell me what tools I need to split the cases for when that time comes? Next on the shopping list..I think a recluse clutch basket and plates might be in order, although not the auto clutch.
 
I have just ordered Rekluse basket. Maybe it will come faster if you order one too :) I'll try that N3CJ needle to my 300. I have 42 and 175-182 jets at carage. (now 40/180 N1EG #2)

I have Scalvini exhaust allready installed. I'll test it as soon as I can ride again...
My team mate said that Scalvini is great. He said that it gave more power all over to his 300 race.
 
How'd you go timpa?? Those scalvini pipes look the goods, hope they perform well too!

I ran the bike again today with 42 N3CJ#3 180. Its as close to perfect as I think I will get. So smooth off the bottom for those technical sections, and then hits hard and really pulls on the pipe. It did feel a little lazy in the mid (before the huge surge) but thats probably me just comparing it to the 300. I might drop the N3CW in with the same settings just for a back to back compar next ride.

Fuel economy was fanastic. Some slight smoke after some single tracking and a nice oily ring around the exhaust. Another great day on the bike! I stiffened up the clickers on the Ohlins both front and rear which has the suspension handling superbly. A few exposed roots and such which I would normally dodge or feel hard through the bars were soaked up effortlessly. They still didn't manage to get me up everything, and I probably should have slapped a fresh tyre on the rear. Next time!

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djroggen said:
I just dropped a N3CJ needle in my 300. I gotta say that is the best needle hands down that I have ran.
Click to expand...

They go alright. Remind you of what a 2 stroke is. Clean off the bottom, builds into the mid and explodes into the top.

I ended up settling on 40 N3CW#3 178 on the 250. The J diameter was just a touch too lean.
 
Just another update on the sexy beast!

As most are aware my TTX shock had a 'failure' and has been repaired and revalved by Ohlins USA. I will have it back early next week/late this week and will post an update in its respective thread once getting a ride on it.

The engine is still running strong with loads of compression under foot. The jetting specs of 40 N3CW#3 178 have been running fine with very snappy power and good grunt down low. I feel it might still be a bit lean in the middle as it kind of buzzes up sound wise without as much pull just before it comes on song and then hits super hard. I like it but I have gone a half a clip richer on the needle and dropped a size on the main to see if I can get a bit more torque in the middle where theres a little hole. I've switched between a 175/178 main several times now and both respond well. The 175 feels a bit crisper and I can get a bit more overev out of it so will stick with it for a while.

I need to check the hour meter to be certain but I believe I've got around 60hours on the top end now and moving towards 250hrs total on the bottom end. I have a new piston kit and gaskets ready to roll but not sure if I should try and stretch another top end out of her or pull it down for a complete rebuild. Thats new terriroty for me and I'll need some of the advice of others here to get through that job for sure. Any opinions?

The TTX forks are also due for a service and I'll likely do that when the top end comes down. I'll regrease the headstem at the same time.

I've only attached one pic today. Hard to believe I could put any power to the ground with the old tyre! Sure think the new one will make a small difference this weekend! :D

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Sure is Noobs. Both of them actually.

I ran the stock FIM Michellin enduros until they were toast and then moved to the Dunlops. I have been pleased enough to not bother trying anything else in the 6500kms I've owned the bike.

I run an MX31 up front and an MX51 at the rear. I have ran 31 rears as well but at the first sign of rocks they start tearing entire knobs off. I get around 700kms from a rear while the one pictured has done a bit more than that :D and on average use 2 rears to a front. I could stretch the fronts further but like to have the grip up there. While they wear pretty quickly in the grand scheme of things they don't really seem to lose too much performance and most importantly remain predictable in their action. I'm happy enough with em!
 
I think you should be OK if you kept a clean filter in it, just check the rod big end side clearance. Actually 60 hrs isn't a lot for a top end, I've been going 85 - 100 hrs and things are still fine.

I'm going to build my '07 into my first ever GG300. Head mod and I'll play with the Suzuki needles as I wan't smooth on this one. KYB forks will eventually go on too. This will be my hell trail bike, my '12 250R my race bike.
 
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