The Lectron - Review (vs SmartCarb)

Beautiful ride today. Rained all night, and all morning, and cleared just in time for the ride and only rained on us again at the end. The sandy sections were loamy and provided great traction. The red clay, roots and logs, provided not much at all but really tested the throttle control and suspension.

Within the first 5 minutes of the ride I pulled up to lean the jetting out one click as it would burble and load up the bottom end far too easily. Every time I'd leave it would have to clear its throat. This was probably my ideal setting for 1/4 - WOT response, but horrible below that. Very rich, very smokey. It would burble each time during roll on, but a crack of the throttle past 1/4 throttle would net a good response. Trying to match a gear to the pace it just broke up. Riding a gear higher with more load it would work ok, but who wants to ride a gear higher all the time?? Thats why I got rid of the 300 top end. I did around 50kms on this setting and found that it would pull very well on and off the pipe. In the more open running it was great with only a chatter really when rolling on while up in the revs. After a good section of slow single trail I went 1 click leaner again, and then rode the loop back the other way. The bike had definitely dropped some torque, but still felt very usable. I could still chugg it in 2nd gear at walking pace. It would pull cleanly right through the rev range with a bit more crispness, however it felt a touch flat when cracking the throttle open, but still had that burbling off idle. Its closer to where I want to be I think, but still not even 90% there. The ride home was quite steady steady, so not sure how the current setting pulls in the open.

I certainly don't see the smart carb fuelling based on engine demand/load. Jet it for sand and it'll be too rich for single track.
 
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Beautiful ride today. Rained all night, and all morning, and cleared just in time for the ride and only rained on us again at the end. The sandy sections were loamy and provided great traction. The red clay, roots and logs, provided not much at all but really tested the throttle control and suspension.

Within the first 5 minutes of the ride I pulled up to lean the jetting out one click as it would burble and load up the bottom end far too easily. Every time I'd leave it would have to clear its throat. This was probably my ideal setting for 1/4 - WOT response, but horrible below that. Very rich, very smokey. It would burble each time during roll on, but a crack of the throttle past 1/4 throttle would net a good response. Trying to match a gear to the pace it just broke up. Riding a gear higher with more load it would work ok, but who wants to ride a gear higher all the time?? Thats why I got rid of the 300 top end. I did around 50kms on this setting and found that it would pull very well on and off the pipe. In the more open running it was great with only a chatter really when rolling on while up in the revs. After a good section of slow single trail I went 1 click leaner again, and then rode the loop back the other way. The bike had definitely dropped some torque, but still felt very usable. I could still chugg it in 2nd gear at walking pace. It would pull cleanly right through the rev range with a bit more crispness, however it felt a touch flat when cracking the throttle open, but still had that burbling off idle. Its closer to where I want to be I think, but still not even 90% there. The ride home was quite steady steady, so not sure how the current setting pulls in the open.

I certainly don't see the smart carb fuelling based on engine demand/load. Jet it for sand and it'll be too rich for single track.
I see a legion of trained monkeys standing in a room in front of fixed handle bars twisting throttles to run in APT carbs before shipment.;)

Yeah doesn't sound right, but hope it works out for you ok.
 
why would jetting change for sand vs woods? I ride both and once my jetting was set I have not had to touch it
 
why would jetting change for sand vs woods? I ride both and once my jetting was set I have not had to touch it

I know when I ride dunes which is only about 1-2 times a year you need to go up 2 main jet sizes or it pings and you can blow up a motor. In the sand you are under constant load and deep in the throttle. With the Lectron you just turn the external PJ screw out half a turn and ride.
 
I know when I ride dunes which is only about 1-2 times a year you need to go up 2 main jet sizes or it pings and you can blow up a motor. In the sand you are under constant load and deep in the throttle. With the Lectron you just turn the external PJ screw out half a turn and ride.

I dont touch mine, no pinging
 
You don't have to MrBlah.. But if you want to retain the same kind of throttle response and crispness across the board there is no doubt that riding udner load in 4th and 5th will require a greater fuel demand than riding at part throttle in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. Obviously, if you set it up to run a bit on the rich side and don't mind dealing with the richness in the slower tighter riding areas, then you won't need to change a thing.. Heck.. some people never even change from stock jetting..
 
I see a legion of trained monkeys standing in a room in front of fixed handle bars twisting throttles to run in APT carbs before shipment.;)

Yeah doesn't sound right, but hope it works out for you ok.

Doesn't sound right to me either, but several people are reporting that the carb run poorly for a good couple rides and then came good. I hope its the case. You have to question if additional wear will happen after this? Also why is something thats manufactured with such tight tolerances setup to have to wear in?

I also read MikeS on ktmtalk had to work with APT regarding a different metering rod to meet their needs. I'm not sure exactly what that entailed or what the needs were though.. Questions have been asked.
 
the biggest improvement iv had is by raising the float height , id say its near perfect , ill look for the settings when i get chance later , but its around 58 turns out and fuel is 3/4 full in the bowl
 
I know MikeS, see him at every harescramble, I'll ask next time. They are running the carb on a TM300.
 
The billet is an extravegent purchase , if the cast version works as well I'd say it's a bargain .
 
Thanks Glenn

Corey still thinks that the carb will resolve with more time on it so for now I'll be taking it on a couple more rides and seeing if it shows any improvement. If not we'll start discussing other possibilities.
 
Lectron, my first impressions...

Installed a 36 mm Lectron on 2011 250 Race, and... from what I've been reading in this thread is different from most as you have all installed 38's.. I had no issues with the cable install although I will revisited the sloppy fit..and I think a way to drain the float bowl easily needs to be devised. Longer vent lines and tees to install high vents also will need installation, although I'm unsure if they are necessary on this carb...
First Impressions are totally positive..Nice linear power, all the way to the top, I'm thinking there is more top end as well, (Although old guys rarely EVER turn the throttle all the way) Gets rid of the 2 stroke hit, and makes the power very electric, building progressively and strongly. Also I'd say there is a more torque down low, only have 1/2 hour on it so will need more time to really finalize my thoughts.. I'm using it as it was delivered, plug and play.. seems close to awesome. Although after the initial ride I installed a clean air filter and went for a longer ride.. Noticed a little lean knock down low, I will adjust the needle/rod a little richer to see if it goes away. Question.. How are you guys adjusting the rod, the special tool? or with some other method..

Ed..
 
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I gently turned mine with a pair of needle nose pliers with a rag to avoid damaging the needle. Some have said they just use their fingers or pliers and cardboard. I believe it was Kevin from lectron that suggested I use needle nose pliers and a rag.
 
Get a cheap pair from Sears and dip the tips in Plastikote tool handle coating, bet that will work good.


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You don't have to MrBlah.. But if you want to retain the same kind of throttle response and crispness across the board there is no doubt that riding udner load in 4th and 5th will require a greater fuel demand than riding at part throttle in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. Obviously, if you set it up to run a bit on the rich side and don't mind dealing with the richness in the slower tighter riding areas, then you won't need to change a thing.. Heck.. some people never even change from stock jetting..

I've not had this problem, we ride single track with powder sand connecting trails, I'm not on my main very often in the single track, too tight, and I have not had any issues with fast sand vs tight single track and the jetting, once I dialed it in, it has worked great

it did take me quite a while to get the jetting just right
 
Installed a 36 mm Lectron on 2011 250 Race, and... from what I've been reading in this thread is different from most as you have all installed 38's.. I had no issues with the cable install although I will revisited the sloppy fit..and I think a way to drain the float bowl easily needs to be devised. Longer vent lines and tees to install high vents also will need installation, although I'm unsure if they are necessary on this carb...
First Impressions are totally positive..Nice linear power, all the way to the top, I'm thinking there is more top end as well, (Although old guys rarely EVER turn the throttle all the way) Gets rid of the 2 stroke hit, and makes the power very electric, building progressively and strongly. Also I'd say there is a more torque down low, only have 1/2 hour on it so will need more time to really finalize my thoughts.. I'm using it as it was delivered, plug and play.. seems close to awesome. Although after the initial ride I installed a clean air filter and went for a longer ride.. Noticed a little lean knock down low, I will adjust the needle/rod a little richer to see if it goes away. Question.. How are you guys adjusting the rod, the special tool? or with some other method..

Ed..

Nice, glad you like it. As for adjusting just use a little chunk of thin cardboard folded over the end and a small vise grips. You just dont want to mar or bend it and it is not hard to turn. Make absolutely sure you have the flat side facing the motor and realise you do it in 1/4 turn increments then push it up and detent it back to flat side. Read the instructions.
 
Fair enough Mr Blah. I generally run the same jetting everywhere too, but to say its not a compromise.. I can't do that.. Its kind of like when people jet their bikes on the stand, or in the back yard.. If its just right here, its generally too lean in the field. For me its usually not the main that is the magic either.. I find the needle (and/or pilot) are the most important aspects.

Fast Eddy, just out of curiosity, what was your previous setup that you're comparing the Lectron against? 36/38mm AS1/AS2 Jetting? You nailed my only real complaints with the Lectron.. Clear bowl lets you see when water is in there.. But can't drain it out.. The sloppy cable fit in the sleeve.. A T3 cable and adapter would be the solution I'd use from Lectron if keeping the carb. And the overflow tube does a great job of coating the counter shaft seal in premix. I'd run this longer down past the linkage.

Initially when the needle was new I needed to use needle nose pliers and a rag to get a grip and turn the needle, but after a little time I can pretty much make adjustments by hand now.
 
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